So something I found out on my Talon, if you look at the needle, as well as the two items that connect on the front (I'm a total newbie the names escape me) there are going to be some grooves, one will have 1 groove, one will have 2 grooves, and the last will have 3 grooves, to help determine which needle goes with each front part.
You're pointing out a usefull feature of the Paasche airbrushes. The dashes on correspond to the three sizes of needle combos. They should be all be the same number. Size 1, size, or size 3
What about shrinkage? Sunlu states it's 6 to 8%. I now it don't warp, but Is it ok for large items, technical stuff? Does shrinkage compensation do the work?
I really can't speak towards technical stuff. I primarily use resin for high detail gaming miniatures. For technical parts I go with an FDM printer. That said I do have an engineer friend who used this resin and said he was impressed with the dimensional accuracy.
It's the future of the hobby in so far as some day in the future, Black Site Studios might get their shit together. Also a really bleak future where beautiful handsculpted metal is replaced by the most boring, safest 3d designs.
This might be the future of minis. I know of another company(Revelations:Skirmish) is doing this kind of thing for their models. And I think it works out pretty well. I'm not currently a user of 3d printers, so purchasing printed models makes it easy for me. But I know there are lots of players that love having the option to just print as needed. Great video!
@@oldoneswithdice Yep! Absolutely. Currently I only have bought physical models. They do sell STLs for those with printers. When I can afford and have a place for a printer I'll be grabbing all the files I can get from them. The rules are free to download as well so that helped jumpstart my internet.
I really need to look at them again. I backed the 2023 Kickstarter. I was frustrated with the piece meal way they released the stl files. I ended up kind of forgetting about the game. I logged in to check the updates and there are still files to be delivered. Starting a new Kickstarter before fullfilling the previous one is a huge redflag for me.
I've definitely noticed that. When I switched printing in Elegoo Abs like 2.0 in a dark grey to Sunlu Abs like in a much lighter grey I initially thought there was a loss of detail. After priming I realised the detail was the same.
@@ovarb12 yeah I'm not gonna lie. I had sticker shock when I saw the price on the physical minis. I only bought the one model. Though I did buy the stls for the 3 models I didn't get on the original preorder. Technically the game is mini agnostic. I think Tau Crisis suits would fit perfectly.
A lot of people can’t have, or won’t have, toxic printers at home. So while it has a future for sure, it will be a long time before hard plastic and other minis will go away. And a substantial portion of hobbyists enjoy building and making things with their hands, and 3d prints just don’t scratch that itch
Not a problem. Its getting cheap enough you will see local printers popping up everywhere who are willing to do the work for you. Its only a matter of time before someone sets up a online ordering system where people can send in their order and local printer fulfills and delivers. Until then, conventions almost always have printers who will pre-print armies of minis you can buy.
That's the point I was trying to get across in the video. BSS is 3D printing in house. The components are even on a sprue for the full build experience
Honestly, especially with mech based games, I’d much rather look at gunpla (specifically the models in that SD/HG inbetween) and mimick that. - Coloured injection moulds that give you a presentable game-ready model out of the box, - Poseable joints (I mean simple like just shoulders/hips. half for variety half because it means they’re modular and you can swap parts out as you see fit & easily take apart for painting/repainting), - Cleaner details (there is no contest, a model with actual joints made up of multiple parts looks much sharper than a single piece model) Wargaming just exists in the weird middle ground though, where some people just want to paint, some people want to build, some people just want to play.
They are a real small company. I think it's around a half dozen employees. If I understand their logistics terrain is all cut on demand. Usually it's able to be backordered and when there are enough in the queue they run a batch. I'm not sure what's going on with the demonship terrain. I'll see what I can find out.
@@godconvoy I asked on their discord and one of the owners thinks they might be cut right now. They should be in stock again in the next week or two. Personally I'm looking at also picking up the Pitlord terrain
@oldoneswithdice , that game seems fun too, and has more than it being the fantasy version. It's just sucks that like half or more of their products are showing sold out now.😔
I learn a lot from your videos, I just started printing miniatures with resin - because of your experience, it would be helpful if you did a video on how you finish or prep your prints (especially how you deal with the ‘dimples’ - I have the same issues) - is it a support settings solution or is it a finishing (sanding) or a combination of both? Thanks
Dimples are caused by resin pooling up around the supports on the top of the model during printing. The only solution I have found is to adjust the models orientation to the build plate. The dimples form on surfaces parallel to the build plate. Less surface area parallel means less dimples.
One Page Rules is what you are looking for. Print them at home. Order physical prints. Six core systems, where the basic rules are free, and you get access to the advanced rules, forever, if you subscribe to their Patreon for just one month (though you will probably stay for much longer…).
I really like OPR. They are doing excellent work. I really should pick up some Saurian models to see how well the prints look and how durable they are.
@@oldoneswithdice I have the Saurian Starhost minis, and they are great. Nice detail, and print fine on an inexpensive resin printer, such as a low-end Anycubic machine. Prints will be as durable as you make them - I use a 75/25 mix of Monocure3D’s Rapid and Flex100 resins, respectively, which produces great results. Weapons, poles, etc, can be a bit fragile, but OPR minis are designed for frequent handling, so are more suited to purpose than many others. You could opt to print all your minis in a flexible resin, if you are truly worried about such things… Or do the complete opposite, and print them in a much tougher resin. It all gets down to durability versus resin cost, really. I would recommend finding one or two manufacturers with good reputation, and product, and sticking with them. If you want to avoid failed prints, and inconsistencies, it is worth paying a bit more for a proven product. Despite having an Anycubic printer, I prefer Monocure3D’s resin, to their own brand. I started with a Sparkmaker (basically, a toy resin printer). Their resin was awtul, so I shopped around until I found M3D, and have been using their resins ever since. Cheers,
@@oldoneswithdice Adepticon was amazing! We also brought or game to the convention. I was super surprised on how many smaller games were using 3d printing now.
@@oldoneswithdice Ignition core games! We have three game systems! The titular Ignition core: (Giant robots), Shining Heroes (Rpg adventure) and Magical girl assault (Fast low count skirmish wargame)
I think the biggest issue is that GW has such a lions share of consumer attention. Unless GW starts making STLs (which isn't gonna happen for a WHILE) or somehow there's a game that catches the attention of a lot of people, most people are gonna stick to kits as they want the official GW look. That being said, I think smaller games will be shifting to almost exclusively 3D prints, as it lowers their manufacturing upfront cost and helps with outreach
The biggest issue is we need a consistent and reliable printer without material risk. I would love an FDM, even with layer lines that could print with accuracy
I think it will add to the hobby aspect, but I don't see it dominating. Injected plastic is still the easiest product for someone to interact with, and many people would rather pay for ease that deal with the extra steps of printing which is basically an additional hobby on top of the hobby.
I recently backed two awesome mecha based wargames Fractured sphere And Revelations: Battlefield I'm in talks with the first game to sell printed models for them and the second game comes with both STLs and physical models.
I totally missed the Kickstarter for Fractured Sphere. I just reached out to David about a late pledge deal. I backed Revelations Skirmish but not the latest one. I haven't had a chance to get it to the tabletop yet.
Well thought out stuff on the modularity front. The geometric precision of this technique certainly lends itself to modern structures, but for old world/fantasy buildings I wonder if it would seem too cleanly orthogonal. I'd most likely do any paint touch-ups after assembly. I liked the unobtrusive ambient music! 😊
Great battle report. The mat looks really cool, but I think it's too open. There should be line of sight blocking terrain in the middle of the field. Since the POI tend to be fairly clustered in this game you need a lot of cover to make the game interactive. Otherwise the big mech on top of the building is going to control the field every time.
Thanks. You're absolutely right a outlet the LOS blocking terrain. I'm in the process of 3d Printing some scifi cars to use as scatter terrain and objective markers.
Hey mate! I just got my first resin printer after printing FDM for quite some time. I decided to go with this resin after I seen many reviews on its flexibility and durability and easiness to work with. I have a Uniformation GKTwo and I'm really struggling to dial in the settings to get decent mino prints! I'm doing like 1.5 - 2s exposure and I'm not sure what's wrong! I managed a near perfect callibration print and then when I try a model then the supports fail and everything sticks to the fep! Any tips and tricks for dialling in settings for this resin??
What calibration print are you using? I recommend the cone of calibration. I find it to gets me in the ballpark. Good luck and let us know how it goes?
This is NOT how to rebuild a passche. All that oil everywhere you won't be spraying anything but fisheyes everywhere. You do need to lube, but in very specific places. Also, you need to crank up the air using the fan cap.
I own the Sushi Shack and I’m in the process of turning it into something else. 😂 Wasn’t a fan of how big the front “sushi bar” portion was, so I’m simply leaving it off and using the remainder of the buildimg and a few add ons.
One of the things I like about terrain from this series is that you can change them up so easily. I'm still editing my build video. In the meantime the finished result can be seen in this battle report. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-72xHMMp-xd4.htmlsi=mOqvFps9IgpRq_A8
