@@jakeruiz7223 at first I did kinda think that, but the more I drove it, the more it seemed to come into it. My thoughts are the car saw the change and had to adjust for it. Just drive it some more and see what it does.
@@jakeruiz7223 no problem man. Just realize you introduced a lot more cooler air coming in, and the car isn’t quite sure what to do with that until it learns how it should be. It’s crazy how advanced cars are now. It’ll pull timing or advance timing as it sees fit, and when we introduce a variable it’s not familiar with it will adjust for that.
Thanks for posting this...I better understand how this works now. I'm one of the weird ones that wants the car quieter most of the time. My bride might have something to do with that. My plan is to leave the plug connected to the actuator and placed out of harm's way. Then I'm going to cut out the factory valve and replace it with aftermarket valve (yes, some cutting/welding involved) that I can control from the driver's seat - switch/toggle of some sort. That way I can have it quiet most of the time, but open it upon demand.
This will just crack again. This is not how you fix this. The proper way is something like Vulkem 45SSL with foam backer rod below it. Every concrete manufacturer will tell you that dry pour is a bad idea and goes against their recommendations for their products.
@@SethKnows oh gotcha. I’ve seen some reports of kits shipping out with incorrect parts or missing hardware altogether. Thankfully mine was complete and correct.
I have those wide cracks, and they’re cause by settling when the underneath isn’t stable, like under compacting or erosion. The stress on the concrete won’t stop unless the underneath is stabilized. I think you can tell by your video when the left side of your garage door seal isn’t touching the ground like the right side. There are RU-vid videos on concrete walkways where expanding foam is injected underneath, but it’s a job that requires a plan and parts, and field improvising. I paid $4,000 to have it done by a contractor since the stock market under Biden has been great, and MAGA will crash the system if they win in 2024. So I spent the money to quiet the wife from her complaining about the cracks.
Dang, no I was in a hurry to get the intake on and a video out that I didn’t think of that. I may film another video of the sounds, and I’ll be sure to get a bunch of different scenarios recorded.
Sounds great and one of the loudest I’ve heard. Not sure on heat soak because I haven’t had a chance to run it super hard yet. It definitely pulls harder. Maybe not the 18whp they claim, but does pull harder.
A fix is a fix is a fix. Any expansion on this and it will crack again. Looks good for the short term but it will be back in time. A fix is just that, it ain't permanent.
I'm no expert, but those welds look HORRIBLE. Half the bead is missing on the weld just past the valve. That is totally unacceptable for a brand new car over $35,000.
Haha you should see the exhaust welds on the top of the line Lexus $65,000 and over, absolutely no different. Car manufacturers don’t expect you to be showing off the underside of your car to your friends
If you want to REALLY fix a crack that will last for a LONG time, will adhere to both sides exceptionally well, will hold up to weather changes, etc... I actually invented my own cement crack repair solution that basically holds up to ANYTHING. Just avoid the expansion cracks with my invention. What I did was I purchased a gallon of the 2part epoxy mix and some basic mortar. I mixed a little of the mortar into the resin... not too much though. Just enough to create almost like a pudding consistency. I then added the hardener and mixed. After I added the harder 1/2 of the Epoxy mix, the mixture was basically a pourable consistency but not too runny. I then just pour it into the cracks and let it cure. Its looks great too because its also self leveling. Although, because its an epoxy mixed cement, rather than water, the epoxy & mortar filled crack stays looking like a wet cement, even though its cured and dry. Filled my crack with my homemade epoxy concoction invention almost 5 years ago snd its still holing up perfectly
I think what the other commenter meant was rather than using an extra utensil (in this case a measuring container and in the 1st video a trowel) just slowly pour the mortar straight from the bag and into the crack. Once you've filled the entire crack, just use the broom or paint roller to smooth it out
Why not pour wet concrete into the crack? I’m seeing comments not to fill an expansion joint I would fill it water will continue to get into the joint I absolutely have all my joints filled. Also you should let this set for at least 10 days after filling the cracks. Then apply driveway sealer with a paint roller on a stick.
You’re going to loose low end torque with this mod. Right off the box Toyota did such an excellent job with the GR Corolla I wouldn’t change anything about it
no, this is a turbo car. I hate this bullshit about backpressure. No engine needs backpressure. As long as you have a good header it will take care of exhaust scavenging. Most engines make more power with an open header, think about that. Backpressure is bad. Of yourse you don't wanna have a 6 inch exhaust on a very small engine because the exhasut velosity will suffer, so xeah it is always a act of balance. But backpressure is bullshit, exhaust scavenging is real
@@DeepRacer-zr4yp Darn that Toyota Chief Engineer Naoyuki Sakamoto when he talked about managing backpressure on the GR Corolla. I actually believed him! Now I look like a fool. I will never trust another experienced Toyota engineer no matter how many countless manhours they spend on engineering and testing the GR Corolla! 😶
I’ve been running it for several weeks now with no drawbacks. I work for a Toyota service department and have been checking/testing for any issues. So far, so good.
Hey man, I am doing this as well, but I’m not seeing a way to pin the valve open. Resorting to industrial rubber bands and but if you could let me know how you actually pinned it that would be awesome!
Initially I jammed a piece of L-shaped strapping in the void but it ultimately did not work. I took the valve back out, drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bracket, and threaded a bolt in the hole. I can make a video about it explaining if you would like.
I’ll keep checking back to see if you were able to create that vid yet. Really struggling trying to figure out a solution and I’m shocked that both Toyota didn’t give us the option to turn this off and on from the factory and that there’s no aftermarket solutions for the GR Corolla yet as it seems so simple smh
@@jabbathepunk5135 awesome. Glad to hear it man. Feel free to subscribe. I’m gonna continue to post videos of mods I do, and I have parts in the mail currently. That’s my purpose in posting these vids, to help the community.
Can you upload a short video of how you pinned it open? Really wanna do this with mine, but want to do it as legit as possible. Don't want any rattling or anything
