This channel is dedicated to rants, tirades, and sometimes education involving the growing home based industry of woodworker, CNC, lasers, and 3D printers. In no way are my views and opinions anyone else's but my own, and should not reflect poorly on any organization that may appear in these videos. If I offend you in anyway, let me offer my apologizes now as this is not meant to single anyone out except stupid people in general.
@@Desert_Woodworker it looks promising it is pretty much the same machine with a inexpensive source and no auto focus. We would get one if we didn’t already have one.
I used to have a Sergeant major who would always come to the motor pool on friday afternoon, when we were sweeping and making everything, "dress right dress." He would see us sweeping and always ask the same question... "Whatch ya'll doin " I can't remember his name . But i still remember what i wanted to respond with... What the F#@k does it look like we're doing?
@Angrycraftsman Follow up question, are you still using the 25khz, 70ish power 600speed for your full wraps. Im currently running that test on a wrap, from the looks of it right now im not sure its getting though the powder coat. I was typically running 85-87 power 450speed at the stock KHZ.
I wish I could be more help. We reverted back to tumblers in the 35/80. A month or so we had a gentleman show up for a demo and wanted to buy the bolt. He needed a laser quick that could run hat patches.
@@Angrycraftsman no worries, busy same settings before selling? Cup last night cw out good, I noticed a few lines, but I'm assuming that was the rainbow Colors, not Laser fault
@@rykus2010 we kept the same settings may have increased to 90ish power for white cups. There is something with white and the rf tube that just doesn’t work well together
@@Angrycraftsman I'm seeing that, I was running 85 power at 450 and still had a lot of cleaning to do. So I'm hoping the 25hrz helps. Running at 600 speed saves me 10-20 min. Another question, ever ruin the rainbow with too much power?
Hi Tommy I'm looking at purchasing the 51/130 but cant find any videos of the electrical control compartment where all the controllers are, what I'm looking for is if there is a milliamp meter inside to see exactly what power the tube is putting out at different cutting levels like 70% 80% and 90% any way you can help would be great
Little bit of panel beating and spray painting some new casters and it will be good as new.. Did the Thunder Laser suppliers contact you direct or how did the deal come about.
For the tube cover, I've seen some folks 3D print it and it is way less protruding (and less expensive). Also, def wipe off any finger oils from that tube too or it could be a hot spot.
Heck yeah. Looks like some minor adjustments and you should be good to go. Love watching yours videos. We are waiting for our 51/100 to shop up. I know you have done a video on the 130 with a 4in lens and depth cut. Do you know for the 100watt if it would be similar in depth?
I had my nova 35/80 fully operational in my shop less than 2 weeks from the time it was paid for but I'm sure your location and current inventory will vary that time frame.
Great job! However, for the cost of the Bolt, I feel Thunder Laser should of done a better job with the air assist, it would work a lot better if the air was shot down along the path of the laser, instead of from an angle.
No because the head has a height limit which prevents you from putting a large lens to accommodate the length of the water bottle. Co2 lasers are much better suited for something like that.
The laser accessory kit is a must, got mine today and an absolute lifesaver. The "corner" kept trophy plates straight and square and the T style pins held plate in place!! The focal blocks made focusing laser so much easier than the little tool that came with engraver. Recommend highly!!
We put the cup in and use a digital angle finder to set the angle. It is 3 degrees then auto focus on the far right if the cup where the top ring is. What we may try is a video from start to finish if doing a cup.
@@Angrycraftsman great, I was focusing before angle, then have to lower z to clear tabs. I'm going to move Air assist up and see if that helps me get getter focus. Thank you
@@rykus2010 for us we are using the 4 inch lens. We have maxed out the depth of focus so we can clear the first tab. There is another video for ramp test to determine the depth of focus.
@@Angrycraftsman yea, I don't have a problem at all on the first tab with the standard focus length. Just that middle tab. So moving the Air assist up would clear it without having to lower z. (I think) I'll need to try it
I was having the same issues with my talon and the threads. Jason said to swap to the bigger jaws, and that seemed to work better, but as long as it didnt fall off, I took it as a win. Great Video!!!! Do you use the 4inch lense even with the normal 20oz, have you noticed detail loss inbetween the 1.5 and 4 inch.
thunderlaser made a small desktop similar to this 7 years ago, only 20 were made, all are still in use, only 3 have had come back for new tubes, the roller system was very similar to the bolt and never had to replace a roller yet
Thank you guys for doing this testing, and more importantly sharing your results with the community! I have experimented with the 2.5" lens in the 1.5" holder and loved the clearance it generated, but it seemed to be very finicky about focal distance and my repeatability was not good. I can't wait to incorporate your findings into my own testing. Thanks again!
Have not tried a normal 30oz. I assume you can. I have engraved a 32 oz in the UV with the low roller. You cannot engrave one using cylinder correction the lens you would need does not go high enough.
