For the past 12 years I've owned three BMWs and the content is spot on. I absolutely love the 5 Series but those are very common issues. Great content.
I wish I could remember, I haven’t owned this car for well over a year now, but to my knowledge mine never sounded like that. Not to try and plug another video but I have one where I took it out to rip through some canyons and I had the mic attached outside of the car, if you want a better idea for what mine sounded like at higher rpm’s, you can check that video out 👍🏼
The best sounding in recent history no question, the B58 sounds pretty similar and really good too but a bit more deep but artificial sounding somehow. N55> for sound
Yep, it should! Only thing is if you wire it up the same as mine then you’ll likely not get one fan speed from that fan since both power wires would be spliced together (I believe so at least), if you wanted to make sure you could use both fan speeds you’ll want to wire it up a bit different
I had them set close to the middle as far as dampening goes, not too hard but not too soft, and then the ride height was not too low, plenty of room to go lower if I wanted to 👍🏼
Yea I’ve heard similar stories too, need to do a bit of research and figure out if they’re bad parts, or being installed incorrectly, either way thanks for the info! 🤝🏼
Great video, I've experienced a few of these already. It's helpful to know what to look for when you are repairing something else and can save cost on labor.
Serious mechanical defect on F series as below 1. Rear differential spline gear worn out. Cannot avoid this issue with high mileage cars. Must repalce differential assembly which cost over $5000. 2. X drive Transfer case and front axle shaft design fault. Must replace TC fluid every 25000-30000 miles and front axle shaft must be checked every 10000miles. If there is some play on axle bearing, you must repalce assembly. 3. Corrosion on Rear shock absorber spring leads to be broken. 4.Timing chain, guide issue on N47, N57,N20. And do not consider any BMW 8 cylinder engines.
Except for the part where I have to pull the supercharger kit... perfect ;) It's a shame the Euro housing is so darn expensive else it would be nice to have the plumbing for an oil cooler.
Not a particularly bad problem to have 😎 I agree, I wonder if it’s any easier/cheaper to run the s54 oil filter housing, that one also has fittings for oil cooler lines 🤔
I have a 328i E46 2000 and a E60 550i 2008 M-Sport I am looking to buy one F10 535iX 2011 or UP that is what I am here checking information about them.
2:47 Can you quantify what you mean by "so prone to failure". Are we talking under 1%? Also you need to call out that multiple people have replaced the rod bearings, only for them to have the replacement rod bearings fail.
@@cpy if you listen carefully, I wasn’t referring to them being “so prone to failure” from a numbers stand point, what I was specifically referring to by that sentence was WHY they fail at all, which is a know fact that the OEM bearings were made with too tight of clearances. As far as numbers go, you’re right they don’t fail as much as it seems like they do because it’s a lot more practical to replace them PRIOR to failure, than to wait for them to fail and need an engine rebuild, so of course those numbers are low. Now regarding your statement that I have to acknowledge that even after replacement, that the bearings can still fail, and I’d be inclined to agree assuming someone replaces their bearings with OEM bearings again or doesn’t opt into purchasing bearings with the additional needed clearance, because the cars that have replaced their bearings with the additional clearance bearings, hardly ever, if at all, have THOSE bearings fail, and if they do it’s for outside reasons other than just being poorly designed, like OEM 👍🏼
@@Anthony_B Ok if that was your intention, that's not what you said. That would be like saying "Why are airplane engines prone to failure?" Nobody is going to think you meant "Why are airplane engines that have failed prone to a particular type of failure".
@@cpy what I said was, and I quote “the reason they are so prone to failure on these engines is because they were designed with too tight of clearances”, which I’ll state again, is a known fact. So I’m not sure how you’re trying to interpret what I said in my own video, but what I said was not only a fact, but is 100% true in regards to what that particular section of the video was talking about, which was why rod bearings fail on these engines. I wasn’t trying to make a statement about whether it happens a lot or not, I was explaining what causes them to fail, WHEN they do fail. So I appreciate you trying to get clarification, hopefully I’ve cleared it up for you 👍🏼
Would I need to swap the wiring so black would be live and red would be ground on the fan if I use it as a pusher fan to push air through the radiator?
Reversing the polarity would make it spin the opposite way, but I’d strongly advise against doing it that way because you’d likely see little benefit considering when you’re driving the car, (ram) air is being pushed through your radiator towards your engine, so if you attempted to have the fan push air back out the other way, I’d imagine all you’d do is reduce the efficiency of both the ram air coming through the front, as well as the air you’re trying to push out from the back. In my opinion you’d do more harm than good that way, if you installed it the way I did you’d only ever aid in pulling air through the radiator and out towards the engine, alongside the ram air already going through it The ONLY time I could see it working the way you’d want is in stop and go traffic when you’re exclusively stopped, otherwise like I said you’re fighting the air coming in with trying to push air out, hope that helps and thanks for watching! 👍🏼
@Anthony_B wouldn't it work the same as an auxiliary fan? My z3 only came with the clutch fan, but I don't want to remove the clutch fan as it's a nightmare, so if I fit an electrical fan to work with the clutch fan it should be okay as a pusher fan or would the result still be the same
Hmm, are you asking if you can use an electric fan in place of an auxiliary fan, the one for your a/c condenser? And if so, did your car not come with an auxiliary fan when you got it? I’m not 100% familiar with those cars but I know they’re basically e36’s, and I did quickly check right now and it appears they do come with aux fans originally, so if you’re asking if you can use an e-fan as an auxiliary fan replacement, then I don’t see why you couldn’t Your original comment made me think you wanted to remove your clutch fan (the one in front of your radiator thats bolted to the water pump) and install an e-fan to push out through the radiator and out the front of the car, which like I said before likely isn’t efficient, but if you’re trying to install it on the front of your condenser and push air through that AND the radiator towards the engine, then yes that should work as it won’t be fighting the air coming in the the front of the car when driving
@Anthony_B my z3 didn't come with an auxiliary fan and no ac.. if I use an e-fan in front of the radiator to push air in to work with the stock fan, it should work as an auxiliary fan 😅 my bad I didn't explain it very well, thank you, I really appreciate the help
I have this same exact setup on my e36. Do you experience any overheating issues with the a/c on? (If you still have a/c) If you still have your a/c, does it blow as cold as it did before the single e-fan upgrade? I feel my a/c isn't as cold as it could be. Love the vids, definitely want to see this car finished through and through. Keep it up, and thank you for the content.
I appreciate the kind words! 🤝🏼 so prior to the e-fan install I did have working a/c, but now that my auxiliary fan is removed it won’t blow as cold as it did before because the fan isn’t helping cool the condenser down. You might notice that your a/c works better while driving on the freeway vs stop and go traffic around town, that would mimic what the fan did. As far as overheating goes, if you’re noticing that your car is getting hot when the a/c is on, there’s a good chance something else is wrong within your cooling system. The a/c being on will put a little more load onto your engine because the compressor is running when the a/c is activated, but it shouldn’t be enough to overheat your car, so I’d start looking at diagnosing then replacing whatever isn’t working right so you don’t actually overheat. I’d also say that it’s probably wise to start by just confirming your cars cooling system is properly bled as these cars are known to be difficult to bleed, but once that’s confirmed if you’re still having slight overheating issues, I’d start looking for what parts aren’t doing their job correctly 👍🏼
@@Anthony_B Thank you for the reply, incredibly helpful. I do believe it was because I didn't bleed the system right. I do have one more question. Do you think you could just rewire the aux fan into the same wires you spliced? or would that not work. I reach out to another content creator with the same setup and said there shouldn't be a problem doing like that. I just want my a/c to blow cooler and with the aux fan not wired it's just dead weight like you said. As always thank you for your help, I'm glad to see more e36 content creators:)
You could do that, and if you did you wouldn’t need to splice into both of the power wires (the blue and the black/blue), you’d only need to splice into one (one will be for low speed aux fan operation, and the other for high, but your spal fan will likely only have one speed so it shouldn’t matter which wire) The only thing I’d advise you of is to be careful doing that as I’m not 100% sure the fuse for the circuit can handle operating 2 fans at once without blowing, I’d also STRONGLY advise if you do decide to run it like that to only use the correct fuse that’s supposed to go on that circuit, and not trying to get around it blowing (only IF it does) but putting in a higher amp fuse, that’s a perfect recipe for burning up wires and could lead to a fire if you’re not careful
@@Anthony_B I mean the oem aux fan. Do you think I could just twist the low speed and high-speed wires together and call it good XD. or maybe run a spal pusher fan on the front of the condenser along with the spal puller on the rad. I don't really have anyone that can answer my question because no one has done it before. Everyone I know running an e-fan are drifting and don't need a/c but mines a daily and want to have the luxury. Thank you for your help.
For what purpose would you want to do that if you don’t mind me asking? If you already have the oem aux fan in the car and it’s wired like oem, then I’m not sure what you’d be trying to do by splicing those together other than to have it run more often, but if your car doesn’t have an aux fan and you’re trying to get one or use a spal fan for the sake of the a/c working better, I’d say you’d be best off to just run the oem setup the way it’s designed, but you probably could run a spal fan in the aux fans place IF you wanted, just make sure you set it up where it’s blowing air in the right direction is all
One of my co-workers is selling his 2013 550i. He had the engine replaced by BMW (ccp) and has about 50-60 K miles on that engine. He never drives it and when I told him my son was looking to buy a car he said he would sell it to him for $9000. I’m thinking of getting it for myself. I can do the basic maintenance the price of the other things that I won’t be able to do myself is what is keeping me from going through with it.
That’s not a bad deal, just be mindful that those engines are notoriously known for being on the expensive side to maintain and keep healthy, they have a laundry list of potential problems (as does any car truthfully) which tend to be expensive to take care of, so like you said, the more you can tackle on your own, the better owning the car will be for your sanity and your wallet 😂 good luck with the car tho if you do buy it, I’ve heard that when they are running well, they’re very fun cars!
If the F10 is equipped with an xDrive, a common problem is vibration. This problem is often solved by changing the oil for the front wheel reducer. It's very important to use genuine BMW oil. It's working. The vibration is gone. We don't have that kind of vibration problem in Europe. At least, that's the first I've heard of this unsolvable problem.
Using Multi grade oil for TC and Front differential is ok. Problem is design itself fault. This TC system is made by Magna which makes same reliability issue on Mercedes and Hyundai. Replacing TC oil every 25000-30000miles is compulsary. Anyhow No one can be safe from engineering defect.😂😂
after reasembling it did you have issues with the gaps on the headlights and the bumper ? i sadly got big issues with mine and dont really got any idea how to adjust it ive already tried moving the bumper but sadly to no avail
I actually met the Inventor of BE Bearings when I was working D2D sales just randomly knocked on his door. Dude was cool and even showed me his Lime Rock E92 M3 which made me fall in love with the car.
Once I replaced the parts in this video I had proper boost most of the time, I’d still occasionally not hit boost but I never figured out why it wasn’t working 100% consistent
