So, if I have two turnbuckles that are 11 inches fully closed, Do I make sure the length of cable between the two turnbuckles to be a few inches longer than it should be? Say it's 10 feet in total length, minus the length of the fully closed turnbuckle. So 8 feet of wire (thimble to thimble)?
What the heck is going on with the wall bricks, at 4:54?? They seem to be shifting around! Are we seeing a glitch in the Matrix, here? Has anybody else noticed this?
Thanks. Answered my question why an aluminum stop sleeve slid off a 1/4" galv wire rope as I tensioned it. Wasn't supporting a weight, so no damage. I changed to using a loop with ferrule.
I have build Zip Line from 1996 to the present have never had this situation or problem. I build zip lines into trees and poles and those zip lines have had 250lb people on them.
They look about M5? Are they 5mm? I am looking to install a bent wire eye bolt of 8mm diameter, so it would be good to know what these were to compare. Thanks
Should a Verlock be used at the top or bottom of the system. That is, hanging a Christmas Tree (load) from the cable glide or is the Glide up at the batton
I am surprised by how well a single clove hitch worked on it's own. I've only ever used it as a starting knot, or for super low stress applications (and will continue to do so), but it help better than I thought. Cheers for the video, I'd love to know how a scaffold knot would have held up.
I am having trouble finding where safety cables are required by a law. I see many area theatres that have NO safety cables on their fixtures. I was at a theatre last night, and they used zip ties to hold the light to the girder. As a Lighting Designer, I was LIVID!. Any information that you can provide on safety cables being required by law, would be most helpful. Many do not use their brains when installing fixtures. They have no clue how many lawsuits they will face should a light fall and land on someone's head.
Most of the laws that apply in your venue are going to be local laws which will not call out secondary cables. Where the law can be applied is through the general duty clause of OSHA law. Workers must be protected from recognized hazards. ANSI standards, such as ANSI E1.4-2-2021 Statically Suspended Rigging Systems, call out that any single point of attachment should be backed up with an appropriate safety. In that case, not following the standard amounts to not protecting against a recognized hazard and thus a violation of the federal worker safety law. Rigging and other entertainment standards are available for free at tsp.esta.org.
From the standard listed above: "3.8 All single point suspensions (from attachment through load carrying device) shall incorporate a redundant point or safety line assembly as an additional safety feature unless otherwise determined in a risk assessment by a qualified person considering the single point failure hazard. The safety line shall be as short as possible to minimize the shock load on the components and anchor point. Anchor points or supporting structure shall be designed to withstand the anticipated shock load imposed by the safety line assembly."
How do you crimp them? Using 1 size smaller than the rope size? A ⅛ wire rope double sleeve for example gets crimped in a ⅛ crimp tool, but the ⅛ stop sleeve will not crimp in a ⅛ crimper tool hole. I don't know why I've had to watch like 12 videos about these already and nobody has said how, or shown how to actually crimp a stop sleeve. Industry secret or something?
The tools used to make the crimps are different for the oval and the stop sleeve. You need to get a tool made for crimping stops. It is not one size smaller that the oval crimper - it is designed and sized specifically for stop sleeves.
Just for reference, With ur come-a-long, the drop in psi at the moment u peak on ur stroke, is the way the gears work when the tooth engages the gear, by design it drops ever so slightly when u go to re-engage the stroke. I dont believe ur getting that kind of stretch, especially with dyneema cord.
1-1/4" pipe doesn't fit like you want it to. It is a little more hassle to get the right pipe, which is actually not pipe. It is 1-9/16" DOM (drawn over mandrel) mechanical tube with a 3/16" wall. Our splices are 24" long, so 12" in each pipe, with holes for 3/8" bolts. Holes are spaced so they are 3" from each end of the splice and 3" from each end of the pipe (6" apart at the center of the splice). Holes are turned 90 degrees from each other where the two at the center of the splice both go the same way and the two at the ends of the splice go 90 degrees opposite. I believe that 2-3/8" long bolts with a narrow nylock nut gives the least protrusion. Bolts and nuts should be grade 5 and the nylon locking ring must be fully threaded.
On Amazon I purchased 1/8" cable and 1/8" sleeves that stated they were for 1/8" cable. However, the is NO way that I can get that cable through the sleeve hole because the act of cutting the cable, no matter how careful I am, tends to slightly fray the end of that cable and in that state it will not fit through the sleeve hole. So now I have to run to Lowes or Home Depot to try to find the next size sleeves so that I can get the job done. What a hassle. So, what IS the correct size sleeve for a 1/8" cable? Is it 3/16" or something else?
1/8" cable gets 1/8" sleeves. The trick is to use a cutter made for cutting wire rope. Some cutters are designed to actually tamp down the ends a little to make it easier to get in the sleeve, but usually you have to twist the ends to get them to lay down and sometime twist the cable as it goes in the sleeve. It is also worth pointing out that getting rigging gear from Amazon or big box home improvement stores is not a great idea. You really want industrial products for anything that will be suspended overhead and you really want crimping tools from Nicopress or Loos & Co. Crimping tools from Home Depot or Harbor Freight are going to be substandard and not suitable for overhead rigging.
I'm surprised you only got a 10% reduction. In much larger 6 stranded ropes (used in mining shafts) the same tests were done with varying severity of kinks, to see if they could correlate the severity of a kink with a loss of strength, and what they found is that all kinked ropes lost almost 50% of their strength!...and logically this makes sense, because in a kink (not a bend) half of the strands get stretched, so when you put a load on the rope and it straightens out, only 3 of the 6 strands are effectively holding that load. Mining regulations say that any rope that experiences a kink must be removed and replaced immediately.
