Recommend installing new valve stem when installing new tires.having to pull rear wheel off again 6 months or whatever because I didn't spend the 5 bucks for new valve stem when I took rear wheel in first time.ugh. use anti seize on all the trim,bag,fender screws.during reassembly recommended.
If you put the center stand on a couple inch block you do not need to remove the front tire. Also I let the air out of the tire. Then it will slip past the final drive. Choose your poison.
yeah its really not too difficult of a job, as long as you stay clean and organized it should go smooth as you saw in the video. the hardest part is getting to the point where you can actually remove the shocks from the bike. these goldwings aren't exactly naked bikes lol. thanks for watching and good luck with your repair.
Great job on the video!! I have an 86 which is kinda similar on many things. the tire guy you have..FIRE HIM!! he should have caught the wheel needing cleaned.
the saddleman seat for gl1200. i’ve sat my butt in that seat for about 30,000 miles now and let me tell you it is nice. one con though is that a stock back rest doesn’t really match up very nicely to it.
Am thinking whould not be better put shock upside down fill first before putiing new seal back in and using damper oil insteed same as fork oil or is that atf fluid which is car automatic fulid .
i don't see why you couldn't add the oil like that, it would probably be faster than the way i did it which was one low volume syringe at a time. i would imagine you might have to plug the hole at the top of the shock to prevent the loss of any fluid as you fill and handle the shock before it goes back on the bike. worth a shot i think. as far as the fluid, the reason atf was used is because the literature i have, the haynes manual, and most online sources say that atf is the correct fluid to be used. damper oil/fork oil would probably work just as well, it may be a bit thicker than atf but i dont think it would cause any harm. but again i used atf because thats what the book said.
Am thinking whould not be better put shock upside down fill first before putiing new seal back in and using damper oil insteed same as fork oil or is that atf fluid which is car automatic fulid .
yup Moore Airfield, Devens/Ayer MA. about an hour from Boston in the morning on the weekends. The venue is pretty sweet for what it is compared to others in the Boston area. The nice thing is many clubs host there, so almost any weekend you feel like there will be an event.
i got the parts off of adept powersports.com, the part number for the oil seals is 91257-MG9-671, the number for the bushings on top is 52484-292-000, and the number for the bushing on the bottom is 52489-461-771. I used just regular old ATF, nothing special
Bought this exact bike in mint condition with 50k miles. Over a year all the plastic for the truck and side saddles because the plastic is expired, plus the saddle covers flew off. Damn shame lol
Do you loosen the cranking bolt and it turns the timing gears backwards? I crank on it when I’m adjusting the valves and it said it will mess up the timing if you turn the engine the other way so wasn’t sure about that. I guess I’ll just try it and see what happens. I’ve got a 24” breaker bar to bust it loose with
the part number for the oil seals is 91257-MG9-671, the number for the bushings on top is 52484-292-000, and the number for the bushing on the bottom is 52489-461-771.
no i did not fill them right to the top, I filled them with a craft syringe to the level specified in the service manual, around 260cc if i remember correctly
the part number for the oil seals is 91257-MG9-671, the number for the bushings on top is 52484-292-000, and the number for the bushing on the bottom is 52489-461-771. hope this helps!
@@jamhandygarage380 Thanks for the info. Great help. Another question on filling with oil. Based on your experience, would it be possible to fill the rod assembly with oil, before assembly with the new seal? Thought it might save time and since that is where the oil goes anyway.
Good info Trying to resurrect a 1985, with only 16k miles. Been sitting for almost 20 years. Brake calipers locked up but more importantly fuel pump not working and need to remove seat to trace wire and test circuit Thanks for sharing JT: Orlando FLA
Thank you for the video I was wondering where you get the replacement parts and I mean the seal interior seal in the bushes from Mountain the shop please help
the clymer or haynes or factory service manuals are absolutely necessary for working on these bikes, i like the haynes and i bought mine online for around 20-25$
the issue was the starter clutch was faulty, which meant that when you hit the start button, the engine would not turn over and you would instead just get a loud unpleasant sound of the starter clutch slipping. the problem seemed intermittent, as in sometimes the bike would start, but it got to a point that more often than not it would not.
I don't know if you figured it out but those cables that run to the carb were routed wrong. They are supposed to follow wires behind the handlebars. Looks like someone screwed up when cleaning the carbs.
ended up going with shinko tourmasters. at this point I've worn them down to the cords and I have a new set sitting in the garage waiting for me to find the time to take the bike apart and mount them. I wouldnt say im married to the tourmasters, but they lasted me a good 15-20k (its now been definitely over 20k) and are the cheapest decent tire out there. they performed well enough that I cant justify spending close to 600$ on michelins or something, not to mention they dont make commander III's in the gl1200 tire spec.
@ 3:25...There it goes....BOOOOIIINNNNNGGGGGGGG!!!!!....HAAAAAAAAAA!!!...You are awesome bro...This just makes me realize that it is wayyyy over my head!!
