A polarity change is not required. It’s best to run 6010 on electrode positive DCEP but if you are having problems with a wide gap or you’re blowing through thin material I’d try electrode negative DCEN.
Does yours still work? I bought one about a month ago, sometimes it does good and sometimes I can't get it to hold an arc, I hope it's me and not the welder!
Here’s a link to it on Amazon not sure what it’s called. www.amazon.com/ONETAK-Compact-Welding-Connector-Connecter/dp/B08H8HL62Y/ref=pd_aw_fbt_vft_none_img_sccl_1/138-0775185-5679527?pd_rd_w=KWe34&content-id=amzn1.sym.f353d175-26fc-4776-8298-842dab47b290&pf_rd_p=f353d175-26fc-4776-8298-842dab47b290&pf_rd_r=YVJXNATJFGEM4BS84S28&pd_rd_wg=oazus&pd_rd_r=bbeea26f-3bc4-4bbc-97ad-d3eb180c1b3f&pd_rd_i=B08H8HL62Y&psc=1
Certain sticks and some metals work better electrode negative and some are just the opposite. It sends the amperage differently between the work piece and the electrode. Hope that helps!
Reverse polarity (electrode positive)= deeper penetration and hotter bead. Straight polarity (electrode negative)= could be used for thin metal or sheet metal with a 6013 or even a 7014. Just my 2 cents