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Great video! Although you should never try to move any motor quickly causing them to generate electricity that feeds back to the main board and can fry the board. I've done that very thing my first printer. Move slowly. Newer boards have feedback circuitry to prevent this. I didn't believe yours does since I saw you LCD screen light up. Great video, I was thinking of snagging a used Ender 3 with a fried main board for$50. Easy fix
So 20 minutes in to me following this "15 minute setup" and you're telling me that "step 1" was in fact wrong 😂 and I've gotta unscrew the only things I've screwed in lol. Anyway thanks for your guide! I certainly couldn't follow theirs 😅
My Elba stove got 2 big and 1 small burners. All 3 also cant start up all a sudden. Totally no spark & no sound when turn the knob. Gas tank is full. Change to new battery still no sound and no spark at all. Please assist.
I learned a lesson: the socket cap head screws fixing the two halves of the extruder will bore straight through if the stepper motor isn’t screwed in to the back first. Weird design choice, they should probably have used a washer or truss screw on the surface.
This is wrong. The thermal Pads should follow the Official Pi Cooler's pad placement, as it is clearly modeled after the official cooler. The thermal pads should be covering the CPU, Wifi Module (Shiny Rectangle) and Power Management Circuit. Ram and RP1 do not generate enough heat to require extra cooling and as such, a direct thermal connection from them to the heatsink will only subject them to further heat stress from the much hotter CPU (Thermal Conductance is a 2 way street.)
My v3 SE has gotten into the habit of clogging at the end of every print. I use mainly PLA, and the clog turns up in the same place as you've shown in this video. What I do to unclog is preheat TPU, use a candle to heat up the tip of the cleaning rod and push it in and through the clog, then burn off the residue that sticks to the rod. Repeat about twice more until I can't feel anything impeding the movement of the rod and all is well and I can print again. My problem now is just the fact that it clogs after EVERY print.
Check your watt power slide on the back of the printer. Make sure your at 115 if you live in the US. I have a friend that bought one of these and had the switch on the wrong side. His did the exact same thing you are mentioning. Slow movement, and then getting stuck on the leveling part.
Does this works good on home theater receivers because I use contact cleaner on a home theater receiver, circuit board. I had to open it up and clean off all the parts of the home theater receiver and it was working like brand new. It is safe to use on home theater receiver this particular spray bottle.? like a Sony home receiver, a RCA, or a stereo system receiver
I bought China tube type contact adhesive with needle tip,the instruction said need sand the surface of the part need to be glued together.Dunno apply or not lol.
great video, but I have a question, here in the auto leveling, it shows me numbers of negative 0 and positive 0, with majority of it green boxes and on the further sides are blue, is it normal?
It is normal to have different mix if greens and blue. However the symptoms will be a telltale sign for a few things. If front and rear side of the bed showing big difference, meaning Z Axis gantry isn't squared If sides vs middle is not consistent, meaning the bed might be warped...
I have an ender 3 v3 se, and Ive been looking all over online but Can’t find anywhere what type of metal the filament drive gears in the extruder are? I wanted to run carbon fiber PETG but have heard you need to make sure your gears aren’t brass. I have a steel nozzle for it already also.. Would you happen to know if they are brass gears? Thank you very much!
Don't think they are brass.. just normal metal. The hotest I ran was 260 degrees for polycarbonate.. and normal PETG.. the drive gears worked fine for both.. probably adjust the drive gear tensioner... should be OK
Thankyou this totally worked - was a bit nervous unscrewing all those screws lol - and praying you reversed it at the end so I could put it all back together again - but got the clog out and now its working perfect again.. It has given me the courage to now try on my 2 x flashforge ones lol
Thank You for your comments. Yeah, ever since a nightmare built many years back, learned from that mistake and now I make sure all XYZ Printers are squared out of the box. Hahahhaa
don't make the mistake of buying something tha tisn't EPSON that you can convert to CISS or has one alreadyu. Brother has a few also. Way less hassle than this crap
