Hey bro thanks for this review . What is the settings and the rear? Like the preload on the rear. I have the maxpeeding rods cot6 model. But back is bouncy and very uncomfortable?
Rear preload basically you turn the coilover spring by hand till it gets tight then turn one rotation with the wrench. Then will need to set right right again. For rear damping I have full stiff
Hey is the fuel rail is from the base? I already did the swap and it starts to had a problem it starts running bad with black smoke and theres wire i dont know where to connect can u help me with?
Do you trust how the steering arm is welded on the shock body with your life over the teins? I only ask because its a pain to have road legal coilovers where im from. There's a reason why absolutely no aftermarket brand has passed certification standards here. Some have failed desrtuctive testing which has lead to the certifying authority to only allow custom modified oem shock bodies (i.e koni inserts in oem dc5 shock bodies, with spring adjustment sleeves installed, with proof of welding and paperwork) to pass. The main reason for this is... the oem takes responsibility for their welding. Where as, the certifying authority has to take respinsibility for any aftermarket brand... that's a pretty expensive process for either the consumer or the aftermarket brand. Regarding aftermarket coilovers, If someone wants their aftermarket brand coilovers to pass, they need to pay twice, to see if they will even pass destructice testing, then pay again for new shocks and then finally pay for the cert... which ultimately, opens the flood gates for everyone else to use that one brand on dc5s.
I do trust it, as in your scenario though there are a lot better options as some company’s do have more invested in there products as far as design and engineering. But on the other hand these for the price seem to be doing the job. I daily this car and put a lot of miles on it so time will tell.
If it wasn't for the " No Wiper Situation & exhaust out the cowl" if I must say... She good! It makes me want to build an awd rsx but I'm into LS chevy stuff. Too many projects presently. 😮
Full build list d16y7 bottom d16y8 vtec head also known as the MiniMe setup -eagle rods -vitara pistons -skunk2 springs and retainers -had skunk2 cam at first was good for top end but iffy for daily use a stock cam will be fine for the power you got out of it -speedfactory oem style headgasket -arp headstuds -skunk2 cam gear -for oiling setup for turbo ive always T off of the oil pressure sensor but you can do a sandwich plate as well thats just up to you. Sandwich plate they say has cleaner oil because it comes from filter but eh. -cx racing gt3076 single ball bearing great spool -1320 d16 top mount turbo manifold. Idk if they make it anymore but most d16 turbo manifolds tend to be cheap. Ramhorn is good for midrange i believe and top mount is great for top end. And Cx racing makes a top mount for d16 as well - used 1320 top mount intercooler piping again not sure how available it is but there are different kits to go with. -d16y8 stock intake manifold ive always used had no issue but can get a skunk2 one for a bit more gains -speedfactory 4bar map sensor -ait has to be welded into intercooler piping for these d16 used that ktuned bung worked well - i used FIC 1050cc evo 8 injectors they fit d16 intakes and fuel rails but makes sure you get new orings if getting used. Do research on impedence i ran low impedence injectors because they were for an evo and i had to wire in a resistor box for it because obd1 and obd2 did not come with resistor boxes so you could aboid wiring in a resistor box by getting plug in play high impedence injectors just still may need to rewire the plug for the injectors but high impedence are plug and play for yhe most part. -hondata s300 is minimum anything below that is too much of a hassle to tune. If you need to save money than the moates demon/neptune ecu is awesome just as good as hondata with some interesting features like a pedal passwords to start the car but kinda annoying after awhile but you can turn it on or off. -hondata coil on plug conversion and coil packs from d17 not exactly necessary but for reliability and bigger power its best. -fuel rail can be stock or can go with any aftermarket one. -fuel pressure regulator i used aem worked well and fuel pressure gauge makes it easier to diagnose fuel issues. -walbro 255 i believe is what i had good for 500 hp did fine can go with a aem one if want to upgrade but walbro is cheap easy and works -catch can is a must because car never really came with a turbo so youll need that and honestly there are different ways to go about that. -if going e85 need e85 ready fuel lines feed and return -boost gauge -need to have a bung welded to oil pan for oil return and try to make it as straight as possible with out it touching the exhaust manifold which can be annoying -oem waterpump -oem oil pump -oem belt tensioner -gates timing belt definitely a good upgrade and pretty cheap for some nice security -makes sure clutch is rated for the power you want stage 2 will not hold in most clutch companies. From what ive seen most ebay brand and name brands stage 4 clutch will be enough for the power - lightweight flywheel is so nice for the d16 really makes it rev out alot better -not 100% sure on valves i had but supertech, skunk2 and Brian crower all make good valves for d16 and valve seals -oem honda oil filter is perfect no need to venture out -not 100% sure what was done to my trans just got it used but big upgrades for is solid bushings for shifter linkages and short shifter are a must. Vould rebuild and put new synchros will help but stock will hold 300-350 just fine just dont clutch dump or over rev. -oem master and slave cylinder for clutch -tial wastegate works great had it dumped straight down but you can dump it up or back into exhaust -3inch exhaust all the way back cx racing makes a downpipe for top mounts setups that worked perfectly for my setup -i had yonaka mount which were stiffer than i would of liked but made respond good but most d16 mounts are good solid ones will make car shake but good response and the solid torque mount made response good and shifter even more consistent highly recommend but will make whole car shake. If you can find polyurethane torque mounts then make help. - -distributor cap for the coil on plug conversion but for 300-350 can run stock distributor with ngk spark plug wires if dont want to buy the Coil on plug stuff
Yo any body ever swap out the base intake manifold for the prb and it's stalls right after ? I have all my lines hooked up and only codes for p0661 valve control for intake manifold ?? Ny help would be great full appreciated.
i can't wait to get my RSX. they're such awesome little things. can't beat those smiles per gallon! i absolutely love to see people enjoying their builds like this, awesome car, man!
Решение есть , может не всем подойдёт ,но все же , надо вскрыть прибор , перерезать провод питания от батарейки , подождать немного , а потом подключить обратно ! И все заработает !)
Братан, мега огромный тебе Рахмат 😘 помог оживить. Это реально работает, разомкнул провод и через минуту его замкнул ( массу), поставил на зарядку на пол минуты и все чудесно заработало🙏
