I've tried about everything short of pulling off the lines and master on my 98 Accord after replacing a very leaky slave and bench bleeding / priming them. Tried a vacuum pump today, and the reservoir level would _sometimes_ drop by a tiny amount, but only got a few CCs of fluid in over about an hour of pumping. Tried backfeeding fluid into the slave with a hose by manually moving the piston, but I don't have a syringe and after the slave was mostly full I just couldn't get enough pressure with the pedal or slave to suck or push more fluid higher up the line. Going to try to make a syringe tonight or see if I can get a ride to the store tomorrow to buy one, the last two things I can think of are either forcing fluid in instead of sucking air out, and either jacking the front way high or taking off the master to bench bleed it in case it's holding air. When I fully compressed the slave cylinder by hand and had a friend push on the clutch, it spat out a lot of fluid, so I know I'm getting pressure from the master. I'm guessing the master isn't sucking fluid from the reservoir because there's pretty much nothing but air in the line between the master and the slave, but jacking up the front and forcing fluid in should be able to push that air through the top of the system. I'm going to try clamping the slave closed and jacking up the front to then see if I might be able to get some air out of the master, if there is air in there (which there almost certainly is). Good to know this worked for you, because I've been having the exact same problem with the same general setup for _days_ after changing my slave, too. Thanks for posting this!
Looking for a different vehicle that I can’t find any instructional video on, watched this for fun and to get a better idea of what I may be getting into. Very clear and informative! Well made, it gives me hope for my project.
No I open my slave cylinder and stuff like gray color toothpaste is coming out of the cylinder some top of goop And I have replaced the master and slave about 8 times and I can't drive more than 2 days without having to bleed the system
You need to replace your lines. Sounds like you've got water in there rusting em. Black goop is likely combo rust/rubber particles. Without replacing your fluid lines, you're just forcing that crap into your cylinders and they'll clog up or ablate through the seals every time you replace em. That's an interesting username, what's the story behind it if you don't mind me asking out of curiosity? I have 11 toes and my great grandfather had webbed feet, not to mention cancer and Chihuahuas are things that exist, so I'm pretty sure DNA _does_ change lol.
lol... @1:01 "You could also come to the back end of the vehicle here & jack off right off of the pinch weld..." @2:26 "Alright guy's, then you are going to come under the vehicle, you're going to spray down a few things with penetrating oil..." @3:21 "...after you get the filler neck out, it does take some wiggling & work to take it out of where it was..." ...sorry, to much Beavis & Buthead 😂
I jack the front up as high as I possibly can and maybe on a incline use a bottle and hose on bleeder, some grease around the connection. Never failed. If your replacing the slave or cmc, it's best to do a bench bleed otherwise you'll be there for hours.
Could you add "1998 Camry" to your video title? I've been searching for a while for a filler neck video, but Google didn't index your video correctly. Also how did you remove the rubber funnel at the filler opening? Did you just pry it off? The gas cap lid release also needs to be removed somehow. With the neck removed, would you also cover up the openings to the gas tank so vapors will not escape (and decreases the likelyhood of ignition)?
Yes it Helped, because It's my project this weekend, plus it enlightened me that I have to swap out a bracket and that I'll need to clean and paint that bracket before attaching it. For I have used Tank Sealer on the inside of the new Filler Neck as well as using Rust Prevention coating on the outside.
