I need some help removing the underbody from the car. Any special techniques? Also do you experience coupler height issues with this car when coupled to other brands? My model of the same type and an Athearn version have coupler height problems and usually uncouple while the train is moving.
Depending on the brand, there will be clips to push or pry with a flat headed tool. You can usually gently pull at areas around the base to figure out where and how it's attached. Coupler height is not an issue for me. I don't have a coupler height gauge, but with the Kadee 148s, they are a big taller than other couplers and provide a bit more forgiveness on my slopes.
@@DaveCoTrains What tool did you use for this? I have the same model car. I tried using small flathead crew drivers, but I'm worried I might break or snap something. Did you insert the screw driver in the push clips? It doesn't seem to work...
Thanks Mike! It's true, but I did put bacon on a flat car a year ago or so and do a few laps until it fell off underneath the layout and my cats found it...lol
You'll have the same problem even when they're wired up with a different decoder. The problem is the motor; one is more worn out than the other. Solution is either replace both motors or work out the speed differences using the speed tables. Even if you do that, you may still have problems as the motor in one of them is not as efficient as the other, no matter how much you play with the speed tables. Also, be sure to use the same decoder/same manufacturer as this too will have an effect on the motor. It's very difficult to get them perfectly matched, you want them close enough in speed where they don't break the couplers. Place your faster locomotive as the trailing locomotive in the consist. Good luck.
Thanks Chris. I'm way ahead of you. That's why at the end I mentioned sourcing replacement parts. I am replacing both motors, and all the gearing including the trucks. I prefer to get the locos running the same if not extremely similar before DCC, only making small trim changes if needed. My next video in the series will be dismantling and buying the parts. I already have everything but the recordings are delayed.
If the gears are broke, then yes, they'll need replacing. Even if you buy two brand new motors, same manufacturer, same model, there are still no guarantees they will run perfectly the same. Speed matching even the best of the best locomotives on the market can be sometimes be quite challenging as the two locomotives will start to pull away from each other after 10-20 laps around a circle of track. I hope you can get the two working in tandem and your project is a success. Thanks for sharing the series.
@@chrisdaniell2990 Thanks Chris. I ended up replacing the entire drive train and gearing as the parts for these locos are cheap and I figured it would give me the best chance to have them run good together. I figure they should (hopefully) be very close with all new parts and I can adjust the DCC settings to match if needed afterwards. I've had the parts for a few weeks but no time to continue this project. With my tight curves and 4% inclines, the speed matching can be tricky but my two Proto 2000 Steamers and two bowser Ds4-4-1000s both run really well consisted together so I'm hoping this follows suit.
Thanks John. You're correct, that would work, but I plan to always run these in a consist and I'd rather have the motors/gearing/truck running similar before DCC rather than to condensate. If after the replacements it is closer in speed/performance I likely will then adjust using DCC.
I keep an old DC powerpack for testing like this and a small piece of plywood with a circle track on it. Comes in handy. Also might be useful that maybe they just need a good breakin period.
That's a good idea, although I rarely get new locomotives, this project being a rare occasion. Still, for troubleshooting it would be super helpful and I could set up portion of my track to be controlled by a DPDT switch with a DC powerpack. Thanks for the suggestion! For breaking in, I did let each of them do laps forwards/backwards for 15 mins each, and unfortunately still problematic.
Very nice time line Dave. Looking forward to see what you do with these bad boys! Thanks for sharing. Have a good night and stay safe. Happy modeling!! - Jason
Great update Dave and nice new purchases for the layout. Awesome little work space you have going on. Thanks for sharing. Have a good night and stay safe. Happy modeling!! - Jason
