I am Andrew (Andy) Luder, and this is LuderCo Arms. I am a gunsmith and a mechanic/millwright. Most of my videos will deal with repairing anything and everything, but mostly firearms and 4 wheel drives. I will try to post a new video every 3 or 4 days, but bare with me, as I am a full time millwright/mechanic in a paper mill as well as run my own gunsmithing business and repair vehicles and everything else that life breaks around here..........
"It's great to have a safety margin above just enough. Adequate" is not going to be good if you get caught in traffic or there is an accident stopping traffic on a freeway you cannot get off. Another great upgrade video. All that and a 10mm socket too!
We will see, it seems to be a pretty nice piece, the welds look pretty good on it. I hope to do an update on how many of the parts I have replaced have held up soon, just need to get past band competition season.
One small tip I learned from someone else is to remove the fill plug first just in case you can’t get it out after you’ve drained the fluid and you wouldn’t be able to refill it.
Nice video! Do you have a name or model number for that detroit locker? I just found a junkyard one and I need to order parts for it but I can't find any info!
hello! I have an XJ 4.0 sport with 186 thousand km...what is the ideal oil model to use? At the moment I use 20w50 valvoline...I'm from RJ Brazil. Thank you in advance for the information
I use 10w40 Valvoline synthetic blend in mine. The question of which is best is almost impossible to answer, as there are as many opinions on the subject as there are kinds of motor oil. That being said, with the warm climate in Brazil you should be just fine with the 20w50 Valvoline.
Thanks, first time I have ever done one. I have done several of the old Dana 20's that came in Scouts and all sorts of older things, and a few of the ones in 2 1/2T Army M35's, but this is the first NP242 for me. Not too bad at all once you get to know it and don't break the roll pin -- LOL!!!
It's a stock Mopar replacement I already had sitting on the shelf in my shed. When/if it wears out, I'll upgrade it, but since it was already here and paid for, I used it.
Great video! I may have missed it, so I apologize if you said it and I missed it, but where did you get the new manifold? Also how hard were the fasteners to get off from the manifolds?
I see where you are going, except I did not do it to gain fuel mileage. Any fuel mileage gain was just a bonus. I did it so that I could run a full time locker in the front axle for off road, and unlock the hubs and still drive it daily. And now if I break an axle, I can just unlock the hubs and limp it home in 2wd without grinding everything in the front axle together like the factory setup.
My XJ is basically stock but one of the first things I did was a ZJ tie rod and new drag link and associated parts since I like to take it off-road occasionally. The size difference is huge and retains the factory adjustment collar like your rock jock setup. Great video man.
About to do this to my 97 asap. I have the same issues, in the southeast, and on long drives it will get up the the next tick mark past 210 just like you said. It had very brown coolant when i first got this jeep, and I have used two other flushes within the last year. Something tells me they didnt do anything like what this stuff is gonna do. Will update after I've done mine.
I have never had a problem out of the factory carrier in a Dana 30, I have broken the axles and u-joints, but never a carrier. Granted I am running the 4.0 six cylinder, I guess maybe if you swapped in a LS or something it would be a problem, but if you were running that much power you would want a dana 44 or dana 60 anyway. I have used and had good luck with PowerTrax, Spartan, and Aussie lockers with factory Dana carriers in Jeeps and Scouts. But of course, it all depends on driving style and your mileage may vary.
It was excess fuel, but not from the injectors leaking. The extra fuel was from the massive crack in the exhaust manifold. It lets in outside air, which causes the downstream O2 sensor to read lean, then the computer adds fuel. Replacing the broken manifold actually gave me a noticeable increase in fuel mileage because of it.
It was lucky, but I measured all the dimensions of the old carrier and gear, compared it with the new carrier and gear, same with the pinions. So I had a pretty good idea that it would work out. I had to pull and reinstall the carrier in the front Dana 44 of my Scout about 8 times when I did it............
Thanks for the video! Lol I had to laugh when you said you had been battling everything all day long on it boy how true at least on mine. Glad I watched your video. I’m getting ready to purchase a long arm kit and I actually have narrowed it down to a set from skyjacker or from Core. I pretty well decided to go with the Core as they have a lifetime warranty break it we replace it guarantee, the skyjacker was the same as your old kit was as far as design the core kit is similar to your Rusty’s kit lol I am sure that will battle putting this kit on at least all day. Happy trails!
Can you explain the parts you used to do that inlet pipe into the airbox? I’d like to replicate it but don’t possess the vocabulary of what is going on there to explain what I need at a hardware store. Much appreciated.
The aluminum tubing and silicone rubber joints and elbows came from a universal turbo intercooler pipe kit I got from Amazon. If you search “turbo piping” on Amazon you can find the pieces you need for your application. I don’t think you would find them at a hardware store.
My 02 cents. #1-installed upper and lower offset ball joints 2.5° and 1.75°to help with caster(keeping camber at 0°. It really helps to have a high pinion d30r. #2- found a common point on each frame rail,as well as a common point on the axle tube outer most edges. Then measured diagonally from rail to axle. This squared up the axle to the unibody( I used a bosch laser measure). Adjust til same measurement a attained. Now your Thrust Angle is good. #3- centered my axle with the adjustable track bar under the body using a plumb bob. I used my fender(my fender was straight at the time) and tire for reference. #4- set toe using masonry string and two jack stands. Wrapped string around rear wheels at centerline( hub ) then to the front center hub and tied it off to the jack stands several feet forward of the wheels. Making sure to maintain center on wheels. Set to 1/16th toe in. Inportant note: set a 1/16th gap at the rearward sidewall of the front tire and adjust toe til the tire just kisses the string on left and right tires. You should be set.
Nice job on reviving the old zero turn.People now days would just throw it away after it sat for years... Looking forward for the axle re-gear on the Cherokee.I picked up a Yukon Grizzly (Detroit Locker) for my Dana 30,Eaton Tru-Trac for my Ford 8.8 rear axle and 4.56 gears.All of those goodies are going into my 2001 XJ.😁👍👍
Excellent repair...it is good to squeeze the juice out of our belongings and this type of repair keeps us active in body and mind and also saves us a few bills...
