hii sir what is your hazelnut orchard elevation from sea level and what is the chilling hour requirement for this variety (please name the variety as well thank you
We are in Salem, Oregon (USA) so we are about 153 ft above sea level. The variety shown in the video is Jefferson. We have pretty mild temperatures here. The winter is typically 44 degrees F and rainy but we do dip below freezing some of the winter. I’m not sure how many chill days the trees need but they don’t like extreme heat or extreme temps below freezing.
We produce most all of the varieties of hazelnut trees that are grown in Oregon in the US: McDonald, Wepster, Polly-O, Yamhill, York, Jefferson, Theta, Felix and Eta.
For the summer when they are already leafed out I would not head them until just before they break bud this coming spring. This way they will put on additional root mass and pull in all the nutrients from the leaves as they shut down this fall.
I wouldn’t know an elevation requirement but it depends on your temperature and rainfall. Hazelnuts can live in freezing temps but they prefer a Mediterranean climate with mild temperatures and significant rainfall. ~70% of the world market of hazelnuts is grown in Turkey. Oregon in the USA (specifically Willamette valley) is also an ideal place to grow them because the winters are mild and normally the summers don’t get too hot. Temps above 85-90 deg F and below 15 deg F can cause stress on the trees. Not getting adequate water in June/July when the nuts are developing can also stress the trees. If your area has moderate temperatures and significant rainfall then they will do well.
What time of year is best to plant? I just got 2 HN trees that are in 10 gal pots. Should i wait till they drop all their leaves, should I wait until Dec. Jan. when it's closer to freezing? Thanks for the help.. Oh, and how far apart should I plant?
For bare root trees I wait until they drop their leaves to plant them. For potted trees you can plant them anytime between now and bud break. Just don’t let the roots see full sun or freezing cold air. Most people space them between 17 and 20 feet apart, depending on the variety of hazelnut tree. Don’t fertilize them going into winter or the salts in the fertilizer could kill them.
Can you train just about any hazelnut into a tree? Or should some be left as bushes? I have some young beaked hazelnut seedlings growing and is it also possible to train them? Or would wild genetics make it hard to do so? Main concerns are weak leaders and excessive suckering.
Hazelnuts naturally grow as a bush. For commercial agriculture we train them into trees so we can easily harvest/fertilize/control weeds/suckers/etc. However all of the varieties we have here in Oregon can be trained into trees. If you are starting with a bush I would suggest not allowing new suckers to grow and trimming off some of the larger suckers each year until you get back to one trunk. If you try to take all of the suckers off at once you could kill the bush from all of the open wounds. Hazelnuts do like to be pruned and even as a tree we try to prune them every 3 to 5 years to promote new growth up top.
Here in Oregon we used to just have two main varieties: Barcelona and Ennis. After the Eastern Filbert Blight severely damaged those varieties the local university here (OSU) helped develop many new varieties that are blight resistant…but not immune. Jefferson is a good larger nut with an upright growing tree but we also have McDonald, Polly-O, Yamhill, Wepster, Dorris and several others to choose from.
@@jeffchapin7248 We grow hazelnuts with more than one root in Turkey. 'yağlı fındık, 'palaz fındık' and the most famous of the western Black Sea is 'delisava fındık'. Thank you very much for your valuable information. I can bring the mentioned variety to Turkey for experimental purposes. Is there a reliable seller for this?
@@banadokunma Niyetiniz hoş fakat lütfen ama lütfen yurdışından alınan filizler için karantina politikalarına dikkat edin. Son 15 yıldaki fall webworm ve powdery mildew strainlerininin yayılışına bakılınca buna benzer bir inoculum olduğunu tahmin ediyorum. Anisogramma anomala yani adamın bahsettiği EFB bir karantina patojeni, türkiyeye girmesi halinde çözüm bulmak çok zor. Bu tür çiftçilerden kargoyla almayın aldırmayın, gümrükte gözden kaçması halinde EFB olmayan bahçelere EFB bulaştırma ihtimaliniz var. Adana'daki citrus yetiştiricilerininde farkındalığı arttı citrus greening phytoplasma tehditini gördükten sonra. Karadeniz fındığı içinde EFB olayı olmasın.
Here in Oregon I like to prune mid to late winter, before they break bud (Jan to end of February). For Oregon with all of the rain we get if you prune early winter then you need to spray for bacteria blight (copper). If you prune late winter after most of the rains then sometimes you can get by without having bacteria blight issues. It also depends on how many cuts you are making if you need to do the bacterial blight spray…if you are only taking off 5-7 small branches then I probably would not spray for bacteria blight. If you are making a lot of open wounds on the tree then I would definitely spray.
@@jeffchapin7248 I appreciate your comprehensive explanation. Our small farm (22 acres) is located in regional Victoria, Australia. We have a temperate climate and it will make sense to wait until the end of winter, very early Spring. We have less than 1000 trees, so I'm trying to decide on a bush (with regular pruning) or a standard tree as you have shown in your video. We are unlikely to use machines, do you have any views?
Hello! Please advise a novice gardener, which variety of nut is better to start? I plan about 20 acres first. I want to form a tree and not a bush. Which variety would you recommend Jefferson or Pollyo? I understand that the fruits are different and are intended for different markets. What planting scheme do you use? Thanks in advance!
There are a lot of different factors to determine what variety is best for your specific farm. Where do you live at? What soil type do you have? If you prefer to call and talk first text me and then I can add you to my contacts so you can call me. My number is (503) 508-1869 and I am in the Pacific time zone.
Yamhill trees like to grow sideways so they are a little tricky to get to prune. They like to bear heavy but they are a pain to get to grow upwards. I know of a farmer who grows a lot of Yamhill that has cutters he mounts on hit tractor to cut off the sideways growing branches to allow room for his sweeper and picker to make it through the orchard. I would still cut off crossing branches, any branches growing straight down and try to aim for 5-7 main scaffolding branches.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 Thank you for the reply- sure is helpful information for curious new growers weighing their options as to orchard planning!
@@paulinekotlarz1172 If you a planning a new orchard then I would look at the latest released variety from OSU, called Polly-O. It is supposed to have similar yield as the Yamhill but be more of an upright tree for easier pruning and shaping. If you need more info on any of the varieties just let me know. If you are local to Oregon then we also sell all of the varieties and I can show you our layering bed trees.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 I'm actually up in BC, Canada, though not in the Fraser Valley area as everyone always assumes, haha. My climate is colder/longer than coastal weather and hazelnuts will grow here but I have to be cognizant of cold hardiness and pollinator seasons to a greater extent. Polly O seems a great variety for marketability, I have more reading to do....thank you.
I’m not familiar with the term spindle tree but hazelnuts do prefer to grow as a bush and can be grown this way in a small garden. For farm growing we prune them into a tree since they are easier to pick. Let me know if this answers your question. Thanks
How important from your point of view are the terms of pruning? If done during warm season does it contribute to more illnesses (if you ever noticed)? Thank you.
If possible, pruning should be done when the tree is dormant. Ideally you would prune just before bud break in the late winter or early spring. If you prune in the summer then you are cutting off branches with leaves on them which provide energy (solar power) to the tree that puts stress on the tree. If we prune here in early winter then we have to be careful of bacterial blight entering the tree so we power-blast copper on the trees to help prevent that. The more open wounds on the tree the more likely to get bacterial blight so it is best to do smaller prunings every few years then heavy prunings less often. We have also found that the varieties of trees we grow here in Oregon like to be pruned because it promotes growth higher in the trees where the branches have better sunlight.
Hi and thanks for this video. Are these trees on a Turkish hazel root, to make it tree like, or do you cut off all suckers? How tall do they grow like this? Thanks
We have our orchards in Salem, Oregon and have several varieties that we manage (Ennis, Barcelona, Jefferson, McDonald, Lewis, etc.) however I believe none of these varieties are using the Turkish root stock. All of our varieties would prefer to grow as bushes but we prune them to be trees so our harvest equipment can work well in the orchards. We manage the suckers by both spraying them and cutting them off. We typically do 3-5 spray applications from spring to late summer and then in late fall or winter, after we harvest, we cut off the suckers so there is just one trunk. Each variety varies in terms of size but the trees grow anywhere from about 20' to 35' tall once they are fully mature.
We are located in Salem, Oregon. If you hand pick and are not using harvest equipment then I can see why some people would recommend a bush form. However if you harvest your hazelnuts with equipment then we have found it is much easier to sweep/pick them if they are trained as trees rather than bushes. We do harvest some of our orchards as bushes but we lose some of the nuts at the base of the bushes and it is hard on the harvest equipment with the lower branches.
I'm in Tennessee, I'm training all mine to be trees, easier to mow and harder for critter's to get to the nuts. Also probably easier to find on the ground if they drop.
@@jasonbourne1596 I should mention I am in central Ontario Canada. I have a friend who trained them into trees. One year the raccoons came in and tore down the branches. The other problem where I am with trees is the rabbits and voles chew the stems. With bushes they have trouble girdling all the shoots. I don't have to use winter protectors. It really depends on what works where a person is. Oh yes! With the heavy squirrel population here nuts never fall on the ground. In fact I have to pick them when still a bit green and let them ripen safely away from the bushes.
If you have questions about the cuts I would be glad to try and answer them. When you cut off a branch you just have to be mindful that the branch will die back from where you cut it so you want to leave a small length (~1/4") so it doesn't die back into the main wood. This will allow the cuts to heal properly.
Very interesting, thanks. I just bought some land in Italy. It used to be an orchard maybe one generation ago. Still legally recorded as an orchard. It goes down to a channel with some water all year long. Now many oaks has grown making it into a sort of young oak woodland. But near the channel (which looks like a small stream, but it is legally a channel, big difference over what you can do around it) I found several hazelnut plants. I don't know the variety but probably the european variety would be a good guess. I have no words to describe the size of those hazelnuts, they are beyond huge. Maybe 6 to 9 meters. The size of the vertical trunks are bigger than my leg. And of course I cannot reach nearly anything about it. With a drone I made some recognition around it and they stand way beyond all other canopy. I also don't know how many of those plants are there as they follow the channel, in what seem to be like two lines on my side of the channel. Until eventually the woods gets so thick I haven't managed to enter yet. How do I deal with it? In theory I would like to bring them back into production while keeping as much as possible the feeling of wilderness there. Do you think you could help me on this?
I would be glad to help out. Can you take some pictures of the trees so I can see what we are dealing with. My phone number is at the end of the video if you want to text me some pictures.
@@emmanuelorchardspathwayfam3646 thanks. Right now I am far away with my family. I shall be back in Septembre and then I will send you the pictures :-). Many thanks again, best regards, Pietro
Hello. Hope you and your dear ones are all doing good. Thank you for such a great video! Learned a lot. My two friend and I plan to plant 1000 (3 year old clones) on 2 hectars of land... My plan is to make 30,000 cuttings by next year and plant them on 60 hectars of land. In Croatia 60 hectars of land cost 2.300$ per year but you have to take it on at least 25years. So whole land for 25years + 1000 cuttings + preparation of soil on land ...it all comes to price of around 70,000$ in next 25 years... Most of the money will go to rent of land. And im expecting to harvest 150,000kg (2500kg per hectar - 500plants planted 3m x 5m ) I want to make clones by my self and i believe doing it in hydrophonic / aerophonic system will be better. Is there anyway to contact you and have friendly conversation? I mean if you dont wanna help me out i will understand . Best wishes ~ Da SA
I would be happy to help out. If you want to contact me, my phone number is at the end of the video (Jeff Chapin, Emmanuel Orchards). I am in the Pacific time zone.
If you have a good main tree then you can cut off the suckers. Otherwise I would keep the best straight sucker and trim the other suckers off. Hazelnuts like to grow as a bush so you will have to either cut or spray the suckers each year.