I flattened and clipped a .22 casing and wedged it between the hammer pin and frame to increase tension. Worked great. All you need is a wide flathead screwdriver and something to flatten the casing.
Even if it wasn't upside down it could take as little as 16 pounds of force to fracture a skull. So even if everything went right it's still a decent chance of serious injury just from the launch. With it upside down or defective then like this shows it's almost certain death. Most recently Allen Ray McGrew just a few days ago died due to a very similar situation.
Was actually looking this up because someone recently died this year from what looks like could be a similar situation. Only takes an estimated 16 pounds of force to fracture a skull. I'd guess if there is noticeable damage to the watermelon you are talking about at least a skull fracture, and maybe also neck. Also this looks like one of the smaller mortars that you can buy, I'm pretty sure I've seen larger and also seen ones that are multi stage. You have to think about the fact that it's launching an object a hundred or more feet into the air in a fraction of a second. Multiply everything out and you get quite a bit of force on the skull and neck of the person. Maybe not instant death if the charge isn't upside down and is one of the smaller ones, but I can't imagine it not being a very high risk of serious injury.
@@user-on4lf4sv7m I don't recall exactly, but this was somewhere around 60 bucks. I ordered spare mags at the same time, but I don't recall if that was included. This was all before inflation went through the roof...
I admire the effort to improve a mechanical system. I disapprove of the methods. A better method would be to remove the hammer and use a honing stone to achieve a really flat hammer face. The "washer" fix might suffice in an emergency but as a permanent solution, well, no. A better method would be to add a strain screw as is used in a Smith and Wesson revolver to increase tension of the main spring if a stronger spring is not available. If, indeed you MUST use a wedge to increase spring tension I would do it at the BOTTOM of the spring where movement is minimal or non existent. <wedge on the opposite side of the spring at the base, between frame and spring>.
I honestly don't remember, but an assortment is probably cheaper than buying some individual ones, such as this one: amzn.to/3VfPqqo That way you can pick the one like or even add extra buttons, so you have several speed options.
So far after 250 rounds, the major issue was the barrel unscrewing itself. Customer service was pretty much not there and I would have to pay for return shipping both ways to fix it. A little blue loctight and all is good. Would I buy another? Nope.
I guess I got lucky with my rough rider ! It has never had a misfire after about 300rds . Mine came with plastic flag grips and I filled one full of lead shot, used a scale to get both half’s of the grips the same weight and poured epoxy over it to secure the lead shot and it is MUCH more balanced and way more comfortable. I absolutely love it now .
Ok, this is a follow-up to a very old video. Since I made this, I actually made 3D printed version. Check the description for the link the updated video for the non 3D version and the 3D printed version as well
If you do 3D printing I put the info for my latest on here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DBjNwHN5EYQ.html and the files are here www.thingiverse.com/thing:6438102
1:17 I live almost walking distance from AAC's original location in Norcross, Georgia. They made the suppressor that killed Osama bin Laden, if I recall.
Also did you use a lathe to widen the boltface or how did you widen it, did you drill the hole in the barrel for the gas or did you buy a predrilled 9mm barrel?
Well, these days, you have different bolt faces available that will fit the 9mm, so there is no need to mod one anymore. No, you can't get a pre made barrel as far as I know and the gas port needs to be super short. There is a lot of complexity to this, so I would not recommend this build if you think you want to make an industrial/sellable version of it. I spent over 3k in materials on trying and lots of hours on it. There is a reason CMMG went with a different design.
How far forward is the gasblock? Do you use a standard AR BCG or a lighter Competition Boltcarrier? Whats the size of the gasport? Im very interested in building one my self.
Finally! The video I was looking for! Thanks! I noted the wear on the top edge of my hammer, and on the gun above the firing pin. And I'd read one other post on shimming the hammer spring, but didn't really understand how or where to put the shim. betcha a nickle this'll fix 'er
The real one and the knockoff both suck at holding zero. Loctite is the name of the game on these. These days, there are way better optics, so this one is sitting in a box somewhere.
I just made a new mod myself. I filed the recoil shield square. Some ammo was getting stuck after firing. A few others I've done are, remove the barrel and sand the frame square, and rotate the barrel so the front sight was aligned. I bought an all steel after market ejector. Still need to file a slot so that cresent handle sits flush with the barrel. The gun shoots great...
Okay, here it is, the Holy Grail of design ideas...wait for it....Tesla Valve! I see some designs where they are sorta' using the design, changed it as to not infringe on patents? Keep the can from exploding?
Purchased the new Heritage Rough Rider 12 inch Buntline edition a week ago. Out of every 6 shots fired, only one or two would go off. Long story short, I tried the washer fix and it worked. Thank you so much...Bob
These exact two things caused light strikes on my heritage out of the box. Glad to see a video in this easy fix. Too many 'fix' videos involve tearing the whole thing apart rather than starting here..
Some higher end, older Smith & Wessons for example had a screw at the bottom of the front strap (near where this guy puts the washer). That tension screw puts tension on the mainspring, which is the big spring inside the grip of the gun. Screw it out and it releases some tension on the spring. That reduces trigger pull on the revolver, which is nice, but it also reduces the tension on the spring, meaning less force going into the hammer and firing pin. Tighten the screw and you get more force on the firing pin but slightly heavier trigger pull. Rough Rider has no tension screw, so you get non-adjustable power on the spring. You are just stuck with however it comes from the factory. 22 rimfire ammo is notorious about not firing due to light primer strikes, so if your Rough Rider has a slightly weak spring, you are just stuck with the problem unless you make some modification. Adding the washer just duplicates what the set screw does on the higher end guns. You push in on that part of the spring, that sort of reduces the length of spring that is operable, and a shorter spring being bent the same distance means it flies back forward with more power. It's a good mod that costs basically nothing. He knows what he is doing even if the explanation was not sufficiently detailed to ensure that those unfamiliar with the internal workings of revolvers immediately grasp why it works.
What size washer did you use? I just got one of these and haven't tried it yet, but plan on trying it over the holiday weekend. Shall see if I need to do either of these mods.
My washer is .032" . This is just general guidance. If you still have issues, you can go thicker as it's not critical on these single action revolves. On higher end revolvers, there is a set screw in the same spot that will allow you to adjust your spring tension. The set screw is then used to allow you to tune the DA trigger pull based on primers used.
I bought two rough riders and both had to be sent back because they only shot half the time. I bought it online and when I contacted them to send it in it was a nightmare as no one would help me since I didnt buy it local from them. horrible customer service . Not only did they charge me for the repair , I also had to pay my FFL when it came back. Buy a Ruger
Had the same issue right out if the box, but once I mentioned 'I should have bought a Ruger Wrangler' atao customer service they changed their tune and sent a free shipping tag for a free repair.
Where I live, the stores are smaller and handling a firearm before purchase is a luxury I haven't had in over 10 years. I justorder them, wait a ridiculous amount of time(not always) and take it home. Fortunately,I haven't found a gun that was so repulsive when it finally arrived that have not needed to refuse purchase. Obviously, I am not talking about consignment guns.
Ive already shot my rough rider 1100 times its cheap it feels like a fixer upper ive done alot of work on it for reliability lots of shaving finding the right ammo to stay clean (Remington thunderbolt) now i feel like i can shoot it forever without anything jamming i used to have to clean it after 80 shot now its smooth and shot 200 shots in a row without problems my trigger spring broke after 1000 shots i think it broke because i found an extra firing pin inside the gun and probably why it broke pretty crazy
Dude, start as small as possible. Diameter has to be small enough to fit between those grips. As far as thickness, even a very thin one like half a millimeter or less will likely do the job. Washers are cheap so start thin and if that does not work you can always take that off and get a bigger one. Just remember you do not glue it to the spring, only glue it to the frame.
