Welcome everyone to the channel! I will be uploading weekly, here on the show we upload videos exploring different car/trucks and testing the limits of what certain guns can or cannot handle! hope yal enjoy if you do please smash the like button and subscribe thanks.
Another good idea is if your gonna do this job in a week or so then jump under the jeep and hit it with some penatrating oil days prior to doing the job.....I sprayed it twice in like 4 days and it wasn't to bad to get loose
I'm interested in how you plan to empty the cans. Does the can unscrew from the Intake/filter head of unit? Or are you planning a valve and drop line to drain it underneath into a pan?
Great question. So the cans have a Allan key plug on the bottom if you choose to drain it that way or how I do it is use an oil filter wrench and unscrew the can from the base and just simply pour it into an oil pan then screw it back on. Hope that helped!
@Gordon Willoughby i have this kit on a few different trucks. Using the Allen at the bottom usually makes a huge mess. Just unscrewing the can works a lot better.
What are the bolt size measurements for those upper control arm trim plate and two lower control arms. I need the measurements, thread and length. For example the rear shocks are: M12x1.75x80mm - top Hex Flange Head Bolt (M12x1.75 nut Hex) Flange) M12x1.75x70mm - lower bolt Nut is first two measurements. They require Partial Thread, Zinc Coating and a Grade 10.9 Carbon Steel on bolt and Grade 10 on Nuts. If you have the measurements of the Upper A-Arm/UCA Plate that has Ball Joint and lower control arms top and bottom bolts, that would be awesome. My Jeep is rust welded on nearly every nut and I can't take them off to get them sized at a store because it's my daily driver. I want to get measurements and order extra bolts and nuts for every part I'm replacing. Ordering Bolts online: For anyone who needs it like me, get the measurements and go get the bolts on BelMetric because they have strong quality bolts and nuts for a very good price. Amazon/Chrysler is charging $6-$10 per bolt and $1-$3 a nut. BelMetric has higher quality and strength bolts with better anti-corrosion coatings for $1.60 a Bolt and $0.59 a nut.
OMG! Why does everyone do it the hard way?? And No you don't have to take off the springs, shocks ect.. Now you have to align everything up. I just did this job yesterday by myself. 3-1/2 hours cause I also replaced the lower control arms too. I used a pickel fork with a 1" X 4' pipe. The pipe worked best if it goes all the way to the fork, that way your pounding on both forks at the same time and not losing the pounding force by just pounding on the end of the fork. Once I got the fork all the way on the balljoint, I started to use the pipe as a leverage bar, yes i used the weight of the differental, was hanging to help pull down on the balljoint but was still on the jack.. I was bouncing a couple of times with all my weight and it broke loose. The control arm popped up as I had hoped it would. Now was so easy to take out the 15mm bolts on the arm, pull the arm out and super easy to get a impact wrench on the 3 balljoint bolts to the differental. Even using a impact on those 3 bolts were very slow coming off. Can't imagine using a ratcheting box wrench on that.
Why didn't you just remove the nut on the ball joint and drop the rear end to help separate with a pickel fork and then you'll have plenty of room to remove the 3 bolts with a impact??? I've seen so many videos on this replacement and they all do it without the use of gravity and leverage!
Sorry for the late reply....im sure there is easier ways of getting the job done. I was putting a new lift on and this was my first lift kit by myself. Now that I'm much older I'm sure I would have done it different. Thank you for the input!
It is doing pretty well. I have the rough country 4inch x-flex lift kit. Be warned though that the adjustable front sway bar end links are trash and so are the adjustable lower control arm bushings. They caused massive death wobble after about 5,000 miles. Thanks! I hope that was your question
That must be a new version..maybe improved over time. The material they used before use to erode as shown in the video so makes sense. Thanks for the update on that.
It's a 99 it's a very hard stiff rubber and it will not come out like that I am trying to replace my track bar and I cant get the bolt past the bump stop (good one Chrysler)
They are super hard to get out without damaging especially when there old...I know I paid 20$ and got both the bump stops. So if need be I'd just notch out the driver side one so the bolt can slip past.
All the products in this video came in the rough country 4inch x-flex suspension lift kit. Note if you have a 99 to I believe 2002 then you will need a front driveshaft from a 2003 to 2004 wj because of driveline angle. The CV joint style driveshaft will shred within miles! I found out the hard way
I just did this yesterday, they are NOT 21mm! at least in my case, they were 13/16" if I used a 21mm it would have stripped the head or busted my knuckles
@@koryyyy Chrysler switched to about 99% metric fasteners on Jeeps in the late 80s/early 90s. The only SAE fasteners on my 1993 Grand Cherokee were the cross-pin bolt in the rear diff and the brake bleeders. The most commonly-reported size for those three bolts holding down the ball joint in WJs is 21mm. Obviously 13/16 is kind of 20½mm.
Just did this to get to my trac bar. What a bitch. I got a big screwdriver all the way under it and it wouldn't budge until I grabbed the opposite side and pulled. Lost some skin but now it's on to the trac bar. Thanks for the vid.
putting the new bump stops in is very easy. they just push in the same way they came out. to make sure they are seated you can Jack up the axle against the bump stop that will for sure seat it all the way.
Wow im sorry for the late reply. The new bump stops should go in the exact same way the old ones pop out. I like to set ut as much as possible then take 2 jacks and push the axle all the way up aginst them
