Currently have a harness bar in my e36… you’re video makes me think the toasted tint isn’t that bad yet. 🤣 Thanks for the video, will come in handy. ✌️
Old video, and not sure if still relevant to you, but the 8f35 being a perpetual calendar movement, there should never be a reason you should have to change the date. The date, month, and leap year information is "programmed" by the watchmaker after battery change. I'm interested to hear whether the stem was broken, or that amount of crown movement is just normal?
YES! YES! YES! This horrific hand painting is a DISASTER that really has ruined the brand for me. Ever since I owned a Bell & Ross Instrument which has PERFECT consistency with hand paint, Sinn has been “nails on the chalkboard” to look at. Having said this I have found solace in their models with solidly painted hands, including their special editions 565L and 556 Japan LHD Green dial for example.
Hi Three Five. Did you find out what was causing the noise? I have almost the same here, but with a M43 (4 cylinder) engine. Happens on cold weather, after the car has be sitting for 12h-24h. Goes away in 2 seconds or less. I'm inclined to do a timing chain job, just to be sure there is nothing wrong with the tensioner. Let me know if you ever discovered something. Cheers. P.S.: I got here after reading your thread on bimmerforums. I know that it's probably lifters noise, but I'm unsure my engine has them. My fear is that the tensioner is bad and about to cause a major problem.
hmmm ... it was a long time ago. it might still do this but i stopped worrying about it. my strategy with my car has been to replace as many things as i can when i encounter a new problem ... since i want the car to last me many more decades. i ended up refreshing the entire fuel system and doing the vanos rebuild. both helped tremendously. i was throwing a 1222 code which prompted the fuel system replacement. i also replaced all the sensors (there are about 6) except the MAF which is expensive ... just because. oh, and all this was after replacing all the vacuum hoses. this scorched earth policy isn't the normal approach ... but for me it's worth it. i like doing the work and learning about the car. long story short, if the sound goes away after a few seconds and only happens on cold start, i dont' think you have an issue. when you have weird shit like revs dropping during idle, especially with a HOT engine, then you have a problem. this was the major symptom i had when throwing the 1222 code (obd1). the car would stall unless i gave it gas. good luck! e36 ftw! hank
@threefive2072 thank you for the answer! I agree that throwing parts at the car isn’t the most economical approach, but I also want to revive it and make it last for as long as possible. That being said, I’ve been changing all sorts of stuff. Had to replace the damn head gasket because the previous owner let it rot at the back of the head (there is a plastic elbow that usually goes bad and mine was dripping on the gasket for who knows how long). Anyway, I think I will replace the timing chain, guides and tensioner. I would change the tensioner only, but the job is almost the same and, like you said, I would feel better knowing the car had those items replaced. Besides that, I will follow your advice and tr not to worry too much. Cheers from Portugal, Bruno
@@MrBrunisio i did all my tensioners when i did the vanos rebuild ... have you done your vanos? i think i left my original chain though. my general understanding of chains is that they can wear together with their gears. since i wasn't going to change the gears i left the chain as is. i haven't ever heard of a timing chain breaking on one of these cars, certainly not worried at stock power figures, personally. hank (seattle, usa)
@@threefive2072 well, I forgot to explain, but my car is a Compact with the M43B16. In other words, its a SOHC with 1.6 liters and 4 cylinders. No VANOS. You can’t have a lot to rebuild if the engine isn’t a lot lol About the gears/chain situation, I have read that somewhere too. My main worry are the chain guides. The one I saw when rebuilding the head gasket was apparently ok, but who knows how the other one was (I was able to change everything without completely removing the front timing cover). I think ill probably buy the entire kit, just to be sure, and try to replace the tensioner and guides only. We will see how it goes. Thanks again for the reply, Hank! Have a good weekend!
Turner Motor Sport list it as the previous comments stated.... throttle cable grommet..... ps great video..... thanks for your efforts.... hi from Australia
well, wrong. the luminescence of hour and minute markers start at the exact same distance to the center of the dial. it’s 3,6mm on both arms. so why don’t you check your facts before you do a yelling video..? I got the 556, checked it, took 1 minute.
Man I just did a complete top end head gasket and I just experienced the same code earlier in the day for the first time and then at night when I parked at the store the car began to misfire in the shopping center. I disconnected the battery and the code cleared now the car seems to be running fine again but I’m sure the check engine light will come back in a few thousand miles like it’s done even before the head job. So annoyed with the obd1 life of not knowing what it’s from. I’ll have to throw more parts at it lol 😂 I’ve done the spark plugs and boots but coils are old never been changed in my 4 years of owning the car ? Every vacuum line is new. Replaced o2 about 2 years ago Regardless I’m guessing this is a fueling issue, the only parts i have not changed during the overall is the fuel pressure regulator and injectors and ignition coils . I don’t know what other sensor would cause this issue to occur!!! I hate obd1
That's brittle when you step on it with maybe 40 lbs and it cracked off. That's also the force of the air while spinning so it must be fatigued after all theses years. I was able to easily crack 10 off while on the car with just a small force, just to keep the engine balanced after one broke off, if not I am sure the rest would spin an an explosion like failure at 4000 RPM. Good plastic should just bend and spring back.
yeah but look at what's happening around 1:50 when i flex the entire blade 180 degrees -- nothing brittle about that. and the pliers didn't crack the plastic, they tore it.
maybe so, but a lot of fine watchmaking is about an attention to detail and precision that can only be seen under magnification. check out grand seiko or lange finishing if you want to see how deep the rabbit hole goes. there are others but these brands seem to have a lot of content showcasing their work.
if you chase the wire from the spoiler behind the trunk lining on the driver's side, you can unplug the 3rd stop lamp plug from an extension wire that runs into the spoiler and thread it back on top of the parcel shelf ... then simply plug it in to the original stop lamp in the rear window.
The sinn 556i has everything a great everyday watch needs.. a subtle date window, understated minimalist design, a decorated movement seen through an exhibition caseback, sapphire glass, high contrast, glossy very black dial, 200m of water resistance, acceptable accuracy, drilled lugs.. it can be that one watch in a one watch collection, it screams quality tool watch yet is not flashy. It is a gada watch. Sinn should be applauded for such a genius design.
@@andrewmitchell1484 www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2447609-OBD1-e36-m3-o2-sensor-CEL-on-at-idle-goes-off-after-accelerating-code-1222-help%21&p=30670232#post30670232 it's in the description. good luck :)
Hmm, mine does not have the staggered lume on the hands; luck of the draw I suppose, but small potatoes in the grand scheme of things … this watch rocks!!
i guess it depends on why you like mechanical watches. part of me wishes it was just "small potatoes" ... would be so much easier to enjoy the hobby, but not how i am wired! personally i am fascinated with the precision of these small machines. this lume issue seems either imprecise or an oversight ... either way, not impressed. from a design perspective though i have realized what really bothers me is the lack of a central axis. with the white paint starting at three different radii, the "centroid," as it were, defined by the these coordinates shifts as the hands move around the dial. the hands seem to float in space. for such a simple watch dial, i would prefer that they were anchored.
yeah ethan follow the link in the comments, i explain what i did. short answer: thousands of dollars refurbishing most of the sensors, fuel system and vacuum hoses. you can try to pinpoint it but chances are if one of these components is failing the others will sooner or later. almost everything on my car was original (25 years old) ... so i just did it all. if you dont' have the time and money it's a little more difficult. the 1222 code can mean so many things. obd1 is a blunt diagnostic instrument.
I have similar situation until motor burn out. Change motor and it works for few seconds then dies too. I will say check fuse box and wires because I think is electric also disconnect battery and reset.
I believe the staggered lume is an intentional design feature that helps the user differentiate the hands more easily when they are overlapping. Although some people won't like how it looks, from a usability perspective, this is actually a better design than if the hands had the lume all begin at the same distance from the center of the dial.
Very pertinent remarks. If I were Sinn, I would line up the lume on the hands, because it could give some more class to this otherwise wonderful watch.
please post pictures / make video and add link to comments here. this is probably the only way the enthusiast community can have some influence over product design ... sinn will eventually realize we come to youtube for real reviews.
