Nice mod

Hey Cuppa Joe, where did you say you got that friction wheel from? Thanks in advance

I know you like to make things lol but you can buy that shaft with the threads on it for like $15.00. Just saying. For mine I used a boring bar holder tool block with a 1 inch hole and a 3/4 bushing. 3/4 inch shaft. A thrust bearing on both ends. You can tighten the set screws on the block to get some drag on the shaft. I also made a 3/4 dia tool that takes a round carbide insert.

Just found your channel and subscribed. Very nice work

Where did you get the steering rod bearing from? I cannot find it anywhere.

This video is exactly what I’m looking for. When I saw my rod I thought the groove was standard until I saw your video and realised my carrier plate did the same thing due to my bushing/bearing breaking.

Thanks for this video it helped me a lot. Probably this is the best method of head stabilisation I have seen.

Is this something you could detach and reset easily for times you want to spin the head?

Thanks for the great infos.👍

I've fixed dozens with the broken bushing and axel ground down exactly like your's. Problem is I've replaced lots of axles and they don't make them anymore so what's available now is it. Finishing up what will probably be my last one. Fingers crossed

How did you make the attachment between the boring bar holder and the boring head, what bearing is it butted against? You have any more info on how you attached the head to the tool holder, I guessing your using the tool holder. Nice idea and want to get started on mine own.👍👍👍

Hi I have the same WE261 and can't move, the wheels always stay engaged in on each position, Do you know what's the problem !?

I had a I'm Going to say thrid member. Its plastic and from factory they Just used oval Head screws. Well over the years they pulled apart so that it started slipping. I figured that this should of been done from factory but I drilled and replaced ever screw around it on both sides with machine bolts. Packed The third member with grease work's Great But now I can't seam to Get The gear shifter to go onto reverse I have everything but reverse. Driving me nuts about to bend The rod to fix it

Your videos are immensely helpful. When you produced this video I had a Bridgeport clone and a good Jet lathe that I sold when I moved 700 miles. In 2023 I opted to buy an old Jet-26 over a new Chinese square column mill, not fully understanding the issues with the round column. My Super Spacer would have been a big load on a Chinese mill. Not sorry I bought it and the first thing I did on it was for someone else. Can't say it was for profit because I spent as much or more time getting the mill to work smoothly as I did making the pieces. The power is good and the accuracy also seems adequate as long as I can do everything without moving the head. Your Thompson bar mod is in the forefront of my planned mods. Electric lift would be nice, too. Mine has 2 idler pulleys and 3 belts (very early version?) so the 3 phase/VFD is also a nice option. DRO is more important than some of the other mods, though. My new shop is much smaller than the last one so the size of the round column mill is appealing. A full sized floor model would eat up a lot more space. Thanks for your contributions!

You should lower the limit on the VFD to something lower like 2400 or 2500, you are to close to the limit. My 2 cents

Joe, I have the same bench mill you have and I am having problems getting the collets to totally engage to the threaded end of the draw bar. Is there a collet guide or adjustment I can make or replace.

Great video

I have a steady like that one but I don't know what make it is. what make is yours?

Very usefull Thanks. have exactly same trouble. what is stens parts number you use.

Running a couple low cost ceiling fans on low to keep the air mixed and not stratified goes a long way to preventing condensation on the cold metal surfaces as well.

Nothing new here, fought this stuff for nigh 60 years. Customer states it's small, how long can it take? They have no clue!

And wiring?

what is the heater stuck to the side of the base on your machine for?

YOUR ! SIMPLY ! WHINGING ! AND ! MOANING !! ABOUT ! THE ! CRAP !! YOU !! BOUGHT !! HERE !! YOUR ! D.TI ! ! LOOKS ! LIKE PLANET !! CHINA !! JUNK !!! TOO !! HERE !!

tasto

Joe where ya been? Miss your content! You sound like your from around my area!

That was great, I picked up an Acra RF-40 and I need handwheels, I cant find anything besides the plastic junk, do you remember where you found those?

I worked in the Coal Mining industry many many years ago (49 yrs ago just worked that out and it makes me feel even older, lol), and as an Engineer Apprentice I was always taught that a Sheave was used for guiding Steel Ropes and Pulleys were the domain of Belts. this was in the UK, so I don't know if the Pond between us makes a difference or not ..... Great project btw.

Just to let you know your old videos are still being viewed and providing great information. You are very talented indeed!

HI, great info on your mill mods. I’m just curious where I could look for a similar pulley and adapter if I ever want to convert to VFD and a direct drive setup? Thanks

Now try cutting steel

I am in the process of setting up one very similar to yours , I hadn't thought of a wave washer , the cutting bit is where I am not so sure of but yours seems to be on the right track . A video on it would be greatly helpful to us newbies

Your clutch design is the same as is used on the Atlas TH lathes to engage the leadscrew. I tried to make one for rthe longest time to replace my broken Zamak one but failed, ultimately quit, and bought one on eBay.

Hey Joe we’re have you been? Your last video was about a year ago . Hope all is fine . I enjoy watching them. I need your help though. Do you have the part number for the Torrington bearing that you used on your draw bar? I am working on changing over my drill/ mill and have not been able to find that one. Thanks so much.

Hi Joe, Just like to say. It is Rong Fu, not Wrong Fu.

Hi Cuppa Joe, Great job you had. Very interested to know more about the design and operation of the machine after engineering change.

Could be better but it is very good, it help me solve a problem and by the way big buck

How do you adjust belt tension now the idler pulley has been removed? Enjoying all your videos. I have the smaller RF25, but the mods can be adapted. I use a laser pointer to maintain position which works ok so still debating about the column clamps, but I do have a 2.5 inch stainless bar which I am itching to use! Thanks Mitch

I know what you talking about when you work on chainsaw , most of the people don’t know what it takes to gotten apart most of the time between parts and labor you spent more then what new one cost and the technician is the one that loses money because you cant not charge for all your hours you work on it. and I know Stihl chainsaw it’s one of the hardest to work on it. anyway thank you for your video it’s very helpful

Did you noticed a reduction in creosote with this setup? Cleaner burn? Was it more efficient?

Did you ever get this one working? Sad to hear you are not posting videos to RU-vid any more but understandable.

smart idea on the slotting , works better than a slitting saw should work for other mills too

Where do you get your parts

Hello, could I have more details about the tensioner with bearing please?

Do you have info about the DRO which you are using? Do you have a video about the power lift for the head?

Absolutely awesome

Holy crap mate, your mill has awesome features. I’d like to see that lift mechanism and see a bit more of this pulley mod to understand how it works

I notice ur rf 30 has cnc setp and a head stabilizer. Do you have any videos on those

Nice Mods on the Mill, I’m thinking of doing a lot of the same Mods to mine. You did some great work.

What a poor video. Sounds like Joe needs oxygen. Breathing is not right to many cigarettes.