I love making artisanal rings legacy and historic woods with a story (Local Texas Mesquite, Hawaiian Koa, Bethlehem Olive Wood, Teak from decks of WWII Battleships, Game Used MLB Bats, Football Stadium Seats, etc.). Every ring I sell is handmade by me in the beautiful Texas Hill Country. Check out www.HillCountryRings.com
Hello Paul, I’m just wondering if you can help a fellow ring turner. During the Covid period I got into spinning rings as a new hobby. I have kept improving and just do them for fun so far. My neighbor is involved in a fundraiser to sponsor one of the honor flights to get our aging veterans to Washington to tour the monument. I told him I would donate a couple rings for them to sell at their auction. I’m looking to purchase some deck wood from one of the battleships . Enough for a couple rings. Are you able to sell me some wood or steer me to somewhere to find the wood. Thanks , Jeff
Just get ride of that end on the tail stock and buy another I made this modification and while using it one day it just kept spinning nothing happening turning out the plastic detached from the metal since it's just molded on and no longer worked ended up just cutting all the plastic off and attaching a clamp to the metal will be making a better improvement soon
I was trying to respond to your message on Etsy about the size 11 ring I ordered. I already measured it with a plastic ring sizer so yes please move forward with the size 11 thank you.
Hello, I've noticed that you've used several brands of 2 part epoxies for your rings. What is your favorite brand for overall strength and ease of use? BTW, I really like your videos; great job. Also, I live in Waxahachie.
Got it from Amazon, links to all the hardware are in the description. Here's the links to the dead-heads (work great): www.amazon.com/Muzata-Invisible-Stainless-Installation-CR07/dp/B07NVGN5K4/ref=pd_ybh_a_8?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=VV2HFH8ECXP8ZDXSYYTD&th=1
There does exist readymade solutions for holding glasses too like you said, but all these options that are worth a damn are expensive. You need one that can handle the curvature on your spesific model mask, and to top it off you need to go get lenses inserted at the optician. Even though it is a simple 2 min job and basic lenses are cheap I bet a lot of stores would make you pay extra for the non-standard service. Services and fees is how they make all their money after all, not glasses (except luxury frames). It could add up in cost quite a bit. Your hack uses 50 cents in materials and a standard pair that they literally give you free as bonus deals a lot of the time :)
Smart! The only thing I think I would have done different is use nanotape/geckotape for mounting rather than superglue (is that what it is on video?). Plenty grip, but no chemical adhesive or hardening that might damage or makenthe seal less flexible. Also easily reversible without marks. I would also put some thin strips of foam as spacers by the nose bridge to give them support up to your ideal height. A tiny bit of nanotape there too probably. The last thing you want is the glasses to shift slightly and needing take of the whole mask to adjust it. Having 2 points of support would make it far more stable. Just my 2 cents. Inwill totally steal your idea now haha :P
Cutting the blank would remove the wood (width of the say (kerf) * 2) and it then wouldn't fit all the way around the blank (or be totally round). Then when epoxying there would be 2 gaps... Breaking keeps all the wood and makes it fit good and tight around the core.
For hand-sanding where the wood is visible (like this one, an 'Overlay' ring) I hand-sand with 220 grit. When sanding an inlay (to get it to fit in a channel) I hand-sand with 80 grit. I kinda 'knock' hand sanding, but actually it's kind of therapy. Very relaxing.
Oddly enough, a larger hole. So would leave less metal in the edge to fold and then 'shrink' on the sizer (using the press). Cutting a smaller hole leaves more metal, so would have a really 'thick' ring (or more to stretch to a bigger ring size).
Sorry for the delay in answering (was out of town). I used to use the 5 minute epoxy but had some issues. Now use 'GFlex' from West Systems. Takes overnight to cure but MUCH stronger.
No problem! I’ve been mostly laminating wood together (haven’t tried metal cores yet). Been using JB Weld (for a little extra waterproofing) for that. Thank you!
If I was going to laminate a few pieces of wood together and then stabilize them, what type of epoxy (or other material would you use)? I’m currently using JB Weld’s marine grade epoxy, but just had a Texas ebony and maple ring delaminate on me in the final stages
Also, thank you for the stabilizing tutorial. I had no idea this was a thing until a friend told me about it. Going to start including that in my process once I get the equipment
Can't really say (I really don't laminate wood so not much experience with that). If you are going to get the equipment to stabilize wood make SURE you get a vacuum chamber with tempered glass lid, NOT acrylic. No Joke! My first vacuum chamber had an acrylic lid and imploded after a few uses (scared the c**p out of me).
Under vacuum at least 2 hrs (more is better). Most important is to keep the wood submerged under the resin after releasing vacuum at least TWICE the time it was under vacuum (that gives the resin plenty of time to penetrate the wood). I like to leave it submerged (after releasing the vacuum) overnight.
Just came across your channel. Great idea. One of those things I didn't know I needed until I saw your video now I'm going to make one. Thank you very much!
I rarely use CA anymore for to attach the inlay (did in the beginning), but sometimes do use it on the 'breaks' for an inlay (to prevent a visible seam). I switched from 5 minute epoxy to a 24hr epoxy about a year ago and it gives a much stronger bond.
@@hillcountryrings I was wondering about that. I heard the epoxy is a bit more flexible. I use CA for the finish. But I got a bit of blooming. I thought it was too much accelerant but reading some posts it may be the opposite. Setting up too slow.
Nice work. I noticed when you do wooden rings you don't orientate so that the grain is running along your finger (So that the end grain is not visible). Does it matter?
They were properly incinerated.. Actually I didn't smoke em all, but did buy the last 3 and the owner of the cigar shop said 'just take the box if you want it'..
Holds up really good. The finish I use is actually made for doing guitar repair. It seems to bond into the wood fibers, then sand/polish to a glass-like finish. Some ring makers use UV Epoxy but when I've tried it that gave a plastic-like feel and can peel off.
