Harry's channel began as part of the RU-vid brewing community. Since then it has come a long way. You will find how to videos, comedy specials, video logs, parodies, challenges and of course brewing videos. Who knows what we will brew up next!
Thank you for your content . I have a old whiskey barrel I intend to use for hard cider, but there’s separation in the planks because it’s so dry. Is it ok to use City tap water in the swelling process ?
Excellent video in these tough times, I struggled like f*** to push the caliper in, then I thought, I'm doing something wrong and this can't be that hard, I took your advice and bought the tool to push the caliper in and it was plain sailing from there on 😂, thanks for the guidance 👍
I am in the process of refurbishing my Fobco Star Drilling machine and unfortunately the top aluminium belt cover has been damaged. LOOKING for A REPLACEMENT BELT COVER. Stripping the Quill was fairly straight forward as I removed the top circle and using a plastic pipe I drove the Quill up and out of the main body casting. The labels came off very easily with WD40 and purchasing the paint from PARAGON ENAMEL PAINTS
Just bought one of those MT-50 labelers from Vevor (May 2024). For the money it is not too bad, but I found (what I call) the "label carousel" surgical tubing friction system to be pretty hokey. I replaced the roller shaft with a 1" diameter bar, bushed the side plates down to one inch, then used felt washers on the side against the mounting plate and a spring and shaft collar on the outside for tension. I also did not like how the liner paper rubbed on the motor under neath... so I made and added another roller between the knurled front roller and the take up roller. The factory should have mounted the motor at the back of this machine. Since everything is chain they could have mounted the motor anywhere other than where it is. Fortunately, I have the skills to do all of this. But for the price ($350 USD) you still can't beat it.
From the looks of his Instagram it looks like he's still alive but appears to have split from Gemma and his kids and has hooked up with some lass called Alice who's still at uni 😂
@@aidanscapeing I saw his pricing on his menu..... inflation and taxing is a major problem he has to cover his cost labour and profit . He has saved a heap by doing all the work himself no way I have the talent that he has that alone has kept him afloat for longer than others I certainly hope for the best for the business, his family and himself . I know if I was in the UK I would not be eating out and would stop drinking
@@sandgroper-ig9nk I have many friends who are divorced or separated, and it always surprises me when couples that seemed happy and strong end up apart. I believe the key to their business success was their partnership, with each supporting the other to keep going.
Regarding the addition of a variable speed drive (VFD, or inverter) - a few words of caution from someone who's worked in electronic control of motors for 35+ years. A VFD works by rectifying the incoming three-phase AC to a DC voltage of about 550-600 volts, and then converts that back to AC (at whatever frequency and voltage you wish) using "pulse width modulation" (PWM). Without going into all the details (a Google search will give you lots more if you want it) the resulting voltage waveform that's applied to your old motor is quite different from the 50-60Hz sine wave voltage for which it was designed. The inverter or VFD applies rectangular voltage pulses to the motor windings, with very fast-rising/falling edges (the voltage swings several hundred volts in a small fraction of a microsecond) and this is a lot more stressful to the motor insulation than the ordinary mains supply. Most high quality modern motors are designed for use with inverters, and as such are wound with "inverter grade" enamelled wire which is coated with special insulation designed to withstand the PWM voltage pulses (which can cause voltage stresses in the insulation at well over 1000V.) However, your vintage motor won't be designed for inverter use, and if you connect it directly to a VFD, you may find yourself having to replace it or carry out an expensive rewind after only a short period of use. This can however be avoided by placing a "sine wave filter" between the VFD and the motor. These are available from decent inverter (VFD) manufacturers, and also from companies like RS Components (who supply decent German-made filters from BLOCK). Choose a filter with sufficient current rating for the motor (obviously) and make sure the VFD's switching (PWM carrier) frequency is set to a value suitable for the filter you've selected (e.g. 8kHz). The VFD also needs setting up to provide an output voltage that's essentially proportional to the power frequency ("constant V over f" characteristic). This is easy and any decent drive company will give all the instructions - nothing to fear but does need to be done properly. On the matter of noise, your motor sounds like its bearings are dry and/or have seen better days! Might just be the proximity of the microphone, of course.... ...but if you've got the motor in bits anyway, I'd generally advise replacing the bearings if you can - the motor should run quieter and hopefully you'll reduce the risk of frustrating (and potentially damaging) bearing failures further down the line. Hope helpful, best wishes with it all. I've also inherited one of these drills and am about to start work....
Hi great video I’m new to this I have a hand pull but I have noticed on other peoples videos they say to use a demand valve I between the keg and tap so not sure if I need one and struggled a little to find the right diameter beer line to attach as well
could you please put the three ingredients into the description of the video? ... or confirm what I'm reading from your video frame at 3:50 - "Dimethicone 1000, Methyl Salicylate (something), and the 99% isopropyl alcohol" Ideally: give the mix ratios and recommend immersion time and temperature. Thanks!
Thank you for the interesting video, I recently got a similar control unit for the water (got it on Amazon, shipped from china). unfortunately it came without instruction manual... I'm still building the control panel, so next week I will connect it and try it. May I ask if you did any calibration on that unit ? do you happen to have the instruction manual ? (I'm talking only about the unit where you set the volume of water and you pressed run). and by the way, I don't know if you know about this, but when I discovered this thing I was very happy; if you open this unit, you will find inside it that you can connect a thermo couple / thermometer so it will measure the temperature as well. 😀cheers
I put a fresh onion garlic and chicken stock powder in the water when boiling. Also grind up the end seasoning with smoked salt, smoked paprika and a dash of Jamaican all spice in a coffee grinder so it's a very fine misting of powder, then toss the fried scratchings in that. Perfect!
Have looked at a number of videos on toe and heel, with most being as instructive as remove bead and straighten door!! I mean, like, seriously! This is a brief and excellent video on, not only how to do it, but also the theory behind it which makes it all the more memorable. Also well presented. Well done OP!
Hey there! I am also attempting a retrofit of a HP-241 on my MT-50. I believe he wired the signal cable from the printer directly to the switch of the labeler. I'd start by using a multimeter on the 4-pin signal cable to see if there's a ground and voltage, and see if shorting them triggers the printer. If so, those are the wires to connect to the "normally closed" pins of the switch. Do you mind telling me how wide the frame of your printer is? The first one I bought was much too wide for the labeler so I sent it back. I then realized that it is made in 3 variants, (300mm, 400mm, and 500mm) but even 300 seems wider than the labeler. I'm trying to figure out if there's some extra-narrow version that is used for the labeler.
Hi Harry, I'm a great fan of your vlog. I need current meter with measuring transformers for 3 phases, for my own panel. But I can't seem to find one. Maybe what I'm looking for is similar to the one you use in your panel. Can you help me find one? Greetings from a small brewery in Denmark :))
