The datasheet recommends placing a reverse polarity diode (1N4002 or similar) across each regulator from output to input and another across the 120R resistors R1 & R2. These provide low impedance discharge paths for the capacitors C5, C6, C7 & C8 to prevent them discharging into the regulator output when power is removed or if a short occurs.
That's an interesting one. You can repeat this experiment with many floating objects and they will all be attracted. Water is diamagnetic, and in the presence of magnetic fields Lenz's law takes effect leading to a depression in the water surface. The object would then float into that depression. I showed this trick to my friends once with cereal (which has iron) and then freaked them out when I did it with plastic. An amazing phenomenon.
I see you appreciate low noise psu's Tip: throw that rectifier in the bin. use 4 x BY229 schottky diodes, then add a 22nF ceramic in parallel to each diode. also, try and find the lowest esr caps for the main smoothing caps. With this, the regulator will be the noisiest part of the power supply. you can silence it more by playing with the regulator caps. play with various types, and values. ceramic, film etc. even with the same components, each circuit has a mind of its own. fine tune those reg caps for each psu you build
I have the Gold Colored One, Cleaned it up From Dust Yesterday, Going to Put a Micro Swiss All Metal Hot End Kit, Head on it Today, bought it long ago and Just Now Going to Do the upgrade. I have to Replace the Extruder Next Pay Days Purchase. I stopped Playing With it because of its Messy Nature, Wasted Lots of PLA Trying to print a Mandalorian Helmet . Kinda Peed it Wont Print a Bong that will not Leak Water .. Have to Figure a Way to Water Proof The Bongs, I created. They are Usless Until then. I have upgrade for MB, The PSP, as Well. More Efficient Power May Make it Smoother, Maybe I Donte Know. Mean Well LRS-150-24 is a Far more efficient PSP...
Yeah mate. I know this is an old video but if that Tornado is anything like mine was then you have bigger problems. I would not let kids anywhere near it for the following reasons: 1) The mains power input is switched (and fused) on the neutral. This means that mains voltage (240v in the UK) is present on the exposed rear DIN connector of the control box and is present inside the control box even if the mains power switch of the control box is off. SWITCH IT OFF AT THE WALL!!! 2) The frame and control box have no safety Earth despite the machine frame and control box being metal. This is illegal in the UK for good reason. 3) The 240v mains cables to the heated bed have no strain relief and are secured with nothing but solder. They WILL fatigue anhd break off over time. See 1 & 2 above.. 4) The default firmware has Thermal Runaway protection disabled and it cannot be enabled unless you flash a new firmware. This is a fire risk. 5) The SSR for the heated bed is extremely cheap and there is no thermal fuse in the heated bed. If the SSR fails, there is no way the micro can shut off mains power to the heated bed silicone pad. Massive fire risk. 6) They use a fake FTDI chip on the mainboard so even if you wanted to try and mitigate 4 and 5 above by using Octoprint and Smartplug plugins then tyou can't without soldering. It CAN be made into a good, safe printer but it is simply NOT safe out of the box given the above.
Do you have any reference that explains the relation between the relative velocity of the roller and rod? I am recreating this setup and would love to know what exact distance the roller should be to get a simple harmonic motion.
The extruder may be slipping due too heat creep, this happens when heat from the nozzle creeps past the cooling block and solidifying filament within the ptfe tube. I have this exact printer and modded the life outta it so the way I solved it is a more efficient 40mm fan. Another way to solve the filiment leak would to be to add Teflon tape to the threads. If you want more fixes, I recommend a few mods to extend the life of your printer, like BLTouch, OctoPi, dual fang blower fans, mirror bed, cable strain reliefs, stepper bracing mods, marlin firmware upgrade to marlin 2x, creality ender 5 extruder, cable pullup lines, max endstops, direct drive extruder, and structure braces. Keep in mind a few of these mods are incompatible with each other.
the extruder is slipping because they replaced it with a non-geared type and the E-steps are way off since they were calibrated for the Titan extruder. Also the filament drive gear has a different diameter. Proper thing would be to change the configuration.h file in Marlin to correct the stepper direction and esteps. Also a PID tune should be mandatory after a hotend replacement.
since the pivot is the point of contact, there is a Torque due to the off-pivot gravitational force. if there was no initial velocity then the ring would fall due to this Torque. (at minute 2:41 you claimed there is no Torque for gravity).
Hey there! I submitted the bead dynamics problem back in 2020. I am in awe of the setup you made! Back then, I wasn't even sure the problem was practical to do experimentally.
