I tried several times to learn wheelbuilding, most of the tutorials on RU-vid etc are confusing. After buying this book and reading it properly, and with a bit of thinking making sure you understand it, you will learn how to build wheels and I now wonder why i struggled so much in the past. Definately the best book on the subject
I build my fist 36h 3X following your book which I purchased on line I’ve ridden with it for 200 kms now not a ping or squeak! Running true 👍 I will check it again after about 1000 kms
you are fast, i do this in 12 minutes with no hury and initial and secondary spoke straining, but you made mistake with spokes you put first-that spokes set should transfer force when pedaling, because in your case if chain skips first gear ring, it will damage spokes that are most loaded
first all niples screw for same numbers of turn, for ex: let last thread be just in niple, then true left/right, up/down and then get wheel in centre of fork, always screw on , front /rear wheel have different path of truing.......
Now that's what I call fast on the job now can this guy lace and true balloon tire wheels in 20 minutes? That was my record one time at a bicycle swap meet a friend of mine had an old 1937 Schwinn balloon tire bicycle he had everything all put together but the wheels and I was the man for the job to do it within about 19 to 20 minutes lace and true wheels and put on a set of balloon tires and tubes and 3 hours later my friend's bike was the best of show.
Actually, it's a 32 hole, 3x pattern, but the principles are the same for 2x. $60 for a wheel, you could spend a lot less and end up with skills for life (price includes tools). Don't forget that the lbs has overheads, so don't go knocking them too much.
I wish you lived closed by, LBS don't wanna give me a measurement(ERD) on my OEM rims which is fairly new just had to replace the hub so I could run 11 speed, does it really cost $15 a rim to measure, and they won't even give you the measurements so you could order the spokes online which is half the price they'd be charging they want you to commit and get gouged for their unfair pricing, you'll get a quote $1.80 does not include the nipple which is another 12 cents and god knows if it's even a good quality. I have a Giant Roam 2 disc and I called 3 shops that carries the bike and even called their corporate office in Thousand Oaks and they have no clue what the ERD on their GX28 which they use extensively on most of their bikes, it's frustrating that you end up buying the whole thing rather than figuring out your original specs on the rims.
Yes, it does matter, and it depends on how you want the spokes to lie on the hub flange. In this example, I am lacing it symmetrical with the leading spokes on the inside.
I tried doing this when I was maybe 15 (almost 40 years ago). I think it took me a month! I eventually got it, but I never did get that wheel just right.
The description of this video says "My other lacing video is better but this one seems more popular (look in my video list for the other one)." Go to the other video and read the full description.
Sir from my personal experience you should assemble the spoke on the cassette side first and give them more tension then the other side as the mountain and road bikes have the left side going straight down
Hi! I built my first set of wheels with your book as my main source of information. I'm quite proud of the result (road disc wheelset). I'm not too worried about minor issues in my first few 100km's.. I would know how to fix it. Thank you!
Roger boa tarde!! estou tentando comprar seu livro mas não estou conseguindo caso vç tenha recebido algum e.mail de jcesarart@gmail.com por favor me responda ok Abraços
You make it look so easy and simple... I did get your book and will be trying a build soon. By the way, I'm glad you're saying there is no "art" in the finishing process... Coming from you, it makes it so much more accessible compared to forum posters discouraging newbies from getting into wheel building because it's a lost art of some kind... Quick question, would there be any significant difference in the building process for a FAT BIKE wheel build ? P.S How can someone actually think of thumbing down this video?
Fred Methot The are a couple of differences in a fatbike wheel. i) you need to calculate the spoke lengths differently. ii) if your frame is offset (eg. Surly Pugsley) then you need to make a small change when checking the wheel dish. I've put some fatbike notes here which will be incorporated into the next release of the book www.wheelpro.co.uk/support/fatbike/ Roger
Great video - yes, I got your book - it is such a logical thing wheel building - just love it - only want to ride my own wheels now - thank you for the time you spent doing this video - you are a top bloke :)
Great video showing how quick it can be done. I love how he uses his glove to rest the rim on. He'll use gloves later in the building process to stress the spokes.
