Hi, I'm Scott Grammer, and I am The Old Audio Guy. I service vintage audio gear and I also do pro-quality transfers of vintage audio and video recordings to digital. This channel is about vintage audio, and my other channel (listed below) is about old time radio, audio transferred from found tapes and disks, and so on. Check them out! Banner photo by Joshua Bienko, Used with permission.
Scott, That is one hell of a receiver. I wish I had the $$. I had the huge honor spending an afternoon with the retired McIntosh engineer that designed the receiver stage in the model 78 AM/FM unit. His work was dine in part to satisfy a loyal McIntosh custom in Connecticut. Pretty darn cool 84yo gentleman! He was/is still busy repairing that model of receivers. Sir, with your vast experience do you feel it is worth while to repair my pair of NAD 214 amps and my NAD 9060 six channel amp. I really like the thought of having them in my very budget HT system. Thank you and please a great day, Kevin PS. I repair welding equipment including engine driven machines for a very modest living. Some down to board repairs with what little I know about electronics.
Hi! I'd love to meet the man of which you speak, and have my apprentice meet him too. The NAD's are definitely worth fixing, if they are not too far gone. Contact me through this channel or through my website, redbankvintageaudio.com, and we can talk about it.
@@ScottGrammer Oh, he's really a great guy and I wish I could acquire 10% of the knowledge he has forgotten. He still lives near the McIntosh Labs plant. The NADs are still great shape. No burned parts or traces. Just distorted output after getting warmed up. My late uncle(electronics engineer) was a big fan of NAD so I guess that's my attachment to NAD products. I'll get over to your site soon. Thanks again.
Thanks. Very helpful video about repairing the damming mechanism on Tascam 32, 34 38, and about the tip to use; “Permatex Ounce White Grease no: 80345". ❤
The comment I made about "steampunk clocks" was not just an attempt at being funny. The German vendor from whom I bought the new CRT told me this himself. He said he used to have a couple of cases of the original tubes in stock, and a few years ago he went from selling one every six months or so to selling one a week. He began asking people what they were doing with them, and when he discovered that they were making clocks with them, he went ballistic. He said he began asking people what they planned to do with the tubes as he sold the last few he had, and if the answer was anything other than "restoring a Model 18," he would refuse to sell them the tube.
Great video! Thanks! I'm brand new to r2r and just ordered my first reel off ebay. It sounded awesome for the first song. Then all the sound stopped. I ffwd and it came back but it sounded like it was underwater for most of the rest of the album. The tape also looked different than the opening track. It was kind of spotty-looking. Mottled? Not sure how to describe it. Does that mean this tape is pretty much toast? Or is there something I can to do revive it? I wonder if the seller will take it back? Is there a way to avoid getting bad tape or is it rolling the dice?
OH, my. Yes, what' you're seeing is called "sticky-shed syndrome," or "SSS." I'll try to explain it here, but it's probably going to be kind of long-winded. It needs a video of its own. So recording tape is made up of either three or four layers. Older tapes had three layers; the clear plastic backing, the brown oxide that the music gets recorded on, and a binder, or glue, that holds them together. In the early 1970's, two changes were made. First, whaling was banned worldwide, and as the binder was made from whale oil, they had to come up with a synthetic alternative, which they did. Second, the fourth layer was added to higher quality tapes, a black graphite or carbon layer on the back of the tape, referred to as "back-coating." This combination would later lead to sticky-shed syndrome. The new binder material turned out to be hygroscopic, which means it absorbed water out of the air. This would not have been much of a problem, as the tape is packed tightly in layers on the reel, so air can't easily get in. This is where that back coating comes in. The back coating lets air and moisture get into the tape pack, where the moisture is absorbed by the binder, and the binder oozes out through the oxide layer, making it sticky, and later, making the oxide fall off the tape. When you play a tape with SSS, the binder sticks to all the parts of the tape deck that the tape touches. It can grind the machine to a halt and it will inevitably foul the entire tape path with goo that must be carefully cleaned off before the machine can be used again. Usually, no damage is done to the machine, but the tape can be ruined by playing it this way. The "spotty-looking" area on the tape is where the oxide has flaked off. There's no fixing that. SSS can be TEMPORARILY reversed by baking a tape in a temperature-controlled environment at around 135 degrees F, for four to eight hours. This is for normal 1/4 inch tape - wider tapes take longer. The baking process drives the moisture out, and the binder recedes, and the tape may be playable for upwards of a month thereafter, but it will usually do it again. New tapes, made in the last half-dozen years or so, supposedly have this issue licked. Older tapes that are not back-coated rarely have SSS - almost never. It's back-coated tapes made from the early 70's through the early 2000's that you have to be wary of, with the exception of Maxell-branded tapes, which for some reason never had the problem. I'll try to do a video on it eventually, but here lately I just have not had the time or energy to make many videos. I can fix your machine, though. Until I can make my own video, here is one from Canada that explains it well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EWe7V4nDzO0.html
@@ScottGrammer Thanks for your thorough and educational reply. I'll contact the seller and see what they say. Any advice on how to buy tapes that won't have this problem? I imagine most tapes fall into the category of 1970-2000. Is it likely that they all will have this problem?
@@dougfluegel No, mainly the ones that have the black back-coating. Tapes without a back coating, regardless of age, rarely have SSS, but it does occasionally happen. Usually, pre-recorded tapes, that is, ones sold by record companies back in the day, do not have SSS. It's ones that were home recorded, or studio tapes (which your Akai will not play) that you must inspect for SSS before playing. The Canadian video I linked to in my earlier comment shows how to inspect a tape before playing.
BONUS REPLY! While I'm sitting here at home with my legs up in the recliner, dealing with lymphedema issues, I wanted to add that there is an excellent video out there on SSS, by Gene Bohensky of Reel To Reel Warehouse. I've done business with Gene, and he's a great guy who knows EXACTLY what he's talking about. Here's the video link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-m32ijFAf5t4.html. BTW, he uses the exact same food dehydrator to bake tapes as I do. I don't know which of us bought it first....
Hello Scott, I have an early 700 that looks exactly like this one. It's been sitting awhile since it blew the AGX-10 fuses, and I'd love to use it again. When could you look at it?
@larryjex6485 Go to my website, redbankvintageaudio.com, and there you will find my contact information. Holler at me and we can discuss it on Tuesday. (I'm open for business Tuesday through Saturday. )
You'd likely do better to use purpose-designed woofers in a car. A car is a "pressure environment," meaning that you're actually sitting inside the woofer cabinet. That requires a different kind of woofer than what goes in home stereo speakers.
This is one of those NOT TO DO Videos. I cannot believe this guy is sanding down the head by hand with 600 sandpaper. There is absolutely no guarantee that a hand method can achieve an absolute square and even lap. He may sand off the edges, but if not lapped square, the tape will skew across the head, making the original problem worse. Not only that, who knows how far into the head the material has been taken off, maybe rendering the head useless! If you cannot get a replacement head, consider this! Send your heads to a reputable company for work! . Unbelievable!
Sigh.... I don't know why I keep having to reiterate this. This is a method used for decades, originally published by Nortronics, a tape head manufacturer. Further, see this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9krRzG0zm_M.html. Then, when you're done looking at that video, here is a link to the actual Nortronics relapping guide, showing the method I adapted into my own. You can download a copy for yourself. drive.google.com/file/d/1daPs3MM7LCB8HrsSiPAkF4sJP0UUIHmx/view?usp=sharing
It has been brought to my attention that Paul McGowan of PS Audio released a video some years ago, stating that it's perfectly fine to run a tube amp with no load. The beautiful thing about America is that everyone has the right to be wrong, and Paul is exercising that right. More power to him. He may not be aware that SOME tube amps, using massive amounts of Negative feedback, are able to control the ringing that can come from an unloaded output transformer. Most McIntosh tube amps are an example. But most high-fidelity tube amps do NOT have much negative feedback and thus are NOT capable of controlling an unterminated output transformer, and so they will likely be damaged exactly as I have described in this video. I have replaced a LOT of output transformers damaged in just this manner, especially in amps in the under-25-watt range. Many tube guitar amps actually short the output of the amp to ground if no speaker cable is plugged into the speaker jack, as a short is preferable to an open circuit with these amps. Essentially, you must assume that your tube amp can be damaged by running it without a load, unless the manufacturer explicitly states that it is OK. Or, you can just give it a whirl, and if your luck doesn't hold, I'm always happy to have a new repair customer! Just be sure to bring your Big Boy checkbook with you.
Hi, I congratulate you for the sumptuous work you have done on this splendid amplifier, all the modifications in my opinion necessary to be able to use this little gem to its maximum performance without risking setting the house on fire 😁 I have one just like it and I too have done the same modifications but I didn't make the one for the vu meters which remain obnoxiously still unless you open the volume and make the neighbors come down and complain😁 I wanted to ask you what resistors and diodes did you use to modify the vu meters. Thank you
Thank you for your kind words. As for the meters, I simply took the original circuit, which was a single diode and a single resistor for each meter, and recreated it on a perforated board as you can see at 8:10. I added a switch which parallels a second resistor across the original resistor for each channel, but I would have to refer to my notes, which I don't have with me, to recall what value of resistor I used. I believe I experimented to find a value that would cause the meters to read 0VU at 5 watts output. You may be surprised to find that the original circuit displays 0VU at 200 watts output, so that the meters can swing all the way to the right at the amp begins to hit its limits.
@@ScottGrammerOk thanks for the answer, in fact I'm doing some tests but to avoid arguing with the neighbor again I ordered the material to build a resistive load so I can continue to try without disturbing anyone I will continue to try. Thanks and congratulations again for the excellent work
This is a very misleading video title. There was no tutorial about how to use a reel to reel machine, and the title made me expect to find that. “Tutorial” is a loaded word here. I would say “information” instead. Otherwise, good video with useful information
When I titled the video, it was intended to be part one of a two-part set. The second part was to be an actual tutorial on how to use a machine. I just never got around to making it. My apologies if the current title led you to believe the video was other than what it is. Hopefully, I will get to make that second part before I leave this planet!
I just purchased one as part of a matched set with the DynaControl and Dynawatt SE 2A3 tube amp, have you had any experience with those? So cool to see another one out in the wild!
Thanks for the video. I have the same deck, tape plays for just a few seconds and then stops. Does this sound like the center microswitch? You mentioned you can still get them and also from China, do you happen to have a link?
Well, what you're describing could be the microswitches, one in particular that is used as a tape presence switch. But I doubt that that's what's wrong, based on your description. I'd say you need to replace the belts and idlers, and hope against hope that the clutch pack is not broken. Your specific complaint usually occurs when the idler tire on the center clutch pack wears out, and the result is that the take-up spindle does not turn. This would cause the tape to be eaten, except that the auto-stop system stops the transport, which is what you're seeing happen. You can find sellers on fleabay who sell the belt and idler kit for this unit, and if you're really confident with handtools and small parts, you can change them yourself, but if not, I strongly suggest you have a professional audio tech do it. As for the switches, they are available from Mouser Electronics as their part number 653-SS-01GL13P. I do not recommend the Chinese knockoffs. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/653-SS-01GL13P
Hi there... did he sell it? How much does he want for it? Would you mind telling me how much you think it would be worth? There is one by where I live with all accessories, serviced with packaging and even the remote for 5500. Do you think it is too much? Thanks
The ST70 is hard on the rectifier with current demand and I wouldn’t use anything less than a NOS or used. Fortunately, Mullards have been rebranded by the other manufacturers of the day and are still out there. Speaking of 5AR4’s, RCA came out with the “big bottle” type which is quite sturdy but I’ve always wondered about the GE design which is the size of a 5Y3GT. I’ve used them, not on a ST70 though. I really haven’t seen anybody mention much about those.
Boa noite! Melhor vídeo que assisti no RU-vid com respeito a gravadores de rolo! Parabéns pela excelente didática e explicação 😊. Suas palavras mostram que entende muito do assunto! Obrigado pela aula! Congratulações do Brasil 🇧🇷
I began by running it on dummy loads that absorb about 99% of the power, and send the other 1% to a pair of small JBL speakers. Once I was through power and spec testing it, I connected it to my Smaller Advents to hear what it actually sounded like. They cannot handle anywhere near its full output, but very few speakers can. It sounded great, and I played it for a couple of hours while working on other gear. The client has had it back for some time, and has played it at his home and at his father's home, and the father liked it so much he borrowed it for a month to run in place of his McIntosh amps.
@@ScottGrammer. Thanks, Scott. That's great. I re-coned some Advent speakers for my sister. I really liked em. They didn't sound good at low volume but sounded very good at medium volume. It's impressive that the customer's father used it for a month and pushed his Macs to the side. I'm a music lover who unfortunately stumbled into the audiophile world 30 years ago. I've found over and again that price has very little to do with the end result of a bit of kit's performance. I don't mean that in a technical way, but in the way I like the sound. I bought a fully serviced Quad 405 about two years ago and I immediately loved the sound. This unassuming little fella gets the music across in a beautiful way. You take care, man and enjoy the ride. Mark. (Melbourne, Australia)
@@ScottGrammer I have the correct orange surrounds and glue for these speakers. I re edged a 10 inch pair, and couldnt get the cone on one exact.I lack confidence I can do these myself. What is the labor and cost for return mail for my pair of 12 inch speakers - out of the cabinets.
@@robertballard8833 Check out my website, redbankvintageaudio.com. There you will find a contact page with my contact info. Connect with me through one of those means and I'll be happy to talk to you about it. Remind me that we spoke in the comments here. BTW, I'm not at work today due to a health issue, so please contact me tomorrow (Thursday).
Ha! Well, I know folks who have owned PL amps for decades and had no problems. But they did, in fact, have issues, although they were not as bad or as prevalent as some folks would have everyone believe. I owned a PL700 MKII for quite a while, and it was great. I used it for sound reinforcement, and later in a home stereo. I later sold it to a friend, and a friend of his destroyed it by blowing up the woofers in a pair of JBL L-100T3's. The shorted woofers blew up the PL, My friend and I rebuilt it and it has been fine ever since.
@@ScottGrammer I love how stiff Phase Linear amps are. MACs, SAE and other old American made amps. Most do not talk about this because they have no clue what it means. Japanese Amps that have 3 times the wattage are not as stiff. Again, no one talks about this but they will bring up some story about am amp catching fire as though it is a postulate. Axiomatic.
Hello Scott, can you disclose how much this upgrade costs? My father has the Phase Linear 700B. It's a little different than the one in this video. He just spent over $900 for repairs and this thing is right back to not working. The bottom fuse blows when it's turned on. There is no visible smoke, just a blown fuse. The fuse in the bottom is a FL 2A/250VP 312. I am not sure if that's the correct fuse, but that's what is in it. I will be cracking the case open tomorrow to see what the other repairmen did or did not do.
(For others reading these comments) This viewer and I spoke privately, and I gave him the answers he sought. The 2A fuse is DEFINITELY wrong, it should be a 10A fuse. Even the 10A fuse will occasionally blow due to the normal turn-on surge current of a normal PL700. A 2A fuse has no chance at all.
Well, I have tried tine and time again to do this, but it slows me down, and I can't allow that. I'm slow enough as it is, what with my poor health, and the phone ringing and beeping every thirty seconds while I'm trying to concentrate. I will try again in the future, though.
Unfortunately, you can put me in a room with this unit and an old Sears or Montgomery Ward player and I wouldn’t be able to distinguish a difference. Hear loss sucks for the most part but using hearing aids does have a positive aspect at times. On an airplane with a screaming baby I can turn them off and still enjoy the trip!
