@@PNWMOTION In my setup with the FX6 (and other cameras), I attach the sensor to the lens, as this is the optimal position with my lenses to see past the matte box. If I couldn’t attach it to the lens, it would definitely be more complicated, especially due to DJI’s somewhat odd decision to use a cold shoe mount. Does that answer your question, or are you looking for a specific thing with the FX6?
@@deadendboredom na just curious how you did it, I have mine on the way and I'm going to use a15mm clamp with rod along with 15mm plate to mount the Lidar too and see how that works but I'm looking for other options in case this doesn't pan out as I really want this to work haha. You're the first person I've seen mount it on the fx6 in a way that I like so far. Also Kondor Blue has a mounting kit that is pre order currently that might be a good option as well. Thanks for the response.
@@torsrive8920 In the part where I demonstrate the app, you can see that it’s possible to save other profiles under the 3 main profiles. However, you can only switch between 3 profiles directly on the lidar Unit itself.
Ich denke dass im Bereich +-1 EV kaum ein mehrwert besteht zwischen den Codex, Sobald gröbere Dynamik und eine korrektur von vieleicht 3 Blenden stattfindet erwarte ich einen grossen Vorteil bei ARRI-Raw, B-Raw, Cine DNG dürfte etwas schlechter abschneiden, und der Rest kratzt bei den Verhältnissen ab oder bildet fleissiges Rauschen ohne gute Information. So genug Spekuliert ich freu mich auf deine Eindrücke.
@@Komeltli danke für dein Kommentar! Das klingt so, als wäre das deine Erwartung, bevor du das Video gesehen hast. Haben die Szenen und Bilder etwas an deiner Meinung geändert, oder würdest du sagen, ich müsste noch bestimmte Szenen ausprobieren, um ein anderes Ergebnis zu erhalten?
good content you have here. anyway, may i ask some question. i just bought this lens about 2 days but i feel the inside of the lens seems like lil rattle when i gently shake it. it is normal?
@@HiSidiq Is the lens focusing normally? A rattling noise could, as I understand it, indicate an issue with a part of the autofocus motor where the adhesive might have come loose. However, this is usually the case when the autofocus stops working properly. My GM 135mm also makes noises that worried me, but it works perfectly fine. I had the impression that, as long as there’s no power, the lens groups might be able to move, and that’s where the noise could be coming from.
@@deadendboredom yes, im pretty sure this lens work properly. i just wonder how can this happen. i do ask about this on the store where i bought this and they say its normal when the lens had a stabilizer feature. but i think this zeiss 55mm did not have stabilizer, so its bother me so much since i bought this lens in a new condition. i think i'll go to service center and ask about it
@@HiSidiq The lens doesn’t have a stabilizer, so it can’t be that. Fingers crossed that the service center is a bit more competent and that everything is fine with the lens.
I might say this is one of the best videos I've seen about this topic so far and thanks so much for sharing, how is the performance for capturing tiny objects like insects? And what's your opinion on this setup vs the Lumix S5iix w/ the lumix S 100mm 2.8? Cheers!
Thank you! I haven’t used the Panasonic with the 100mm lens, so it’s hard for me to comment on the Sigma’s performance without a direct comparison. Subjectively, I was positively surprised by the autofocus performance, even at close range. However, I would say it’s important to use a Sony camera with reliable touch tracking, as most small animals or objects are not automatically detected by the animal autofocus.
Very interested in part 3 of this series, with ALL-I vs x264 vs x265, on the same 100mbit/s max bitrate, XAVC HS (in theory) should withstand noticeably more abuse before it will break.
Interesting: 25fps in PAL mode Long GOP x264 on FX3 140mbit/s, but 24fps in NTSC mode Long GOP x264 and x265 are 100mbit/s, so best bitrate per frame for x264 5.6mbit/frame, and for x265 4.2mbit/frame, 1.33 difference in bitrate, but it is still better than 1.5+ average bitrate difference for same perceptual image quality calculated by researchers. Overall 24fps 100mbit/s x265 should be perceptually 12+% better than 25fps 140mbit/s x264 from FX3.
Using the Fuji xt4 so this thing will always be awesome, haha! Think it will be dope, I’m not filming like you’re demoing the unit… it’s give and take and learn to use the gear you have. Hell I’m using the AF on the xt4 for gods sake ❤😂❤
So I know this is an old video, and I'm not really a sony guy but I've downloaded the files and the XAVC-I is 10 bit and the XAVC-L is 8 bit. Can you shoot in XAVC-L 10 bit?
@@vladlapadatescu You’re absolutely right. At least from the FX6, the Long GoP files are limited to 8-bit, no 10 Bit. The FX3 can shoot 10-bit Long GoP.
I purchased the 18-35mm for my fx30, but once it arrived I saw that it does not support continuous focus because it is disabled by the camera, what can I do?
@@grazianoverrico1978 If the physical switch on the lens is set to AF, autofocus should still work. In the menu, AF-C might appear greyed out, and you’ll see the exact message you mentioned, but that’s likely because only this mode is available. Continuous autofocus and eye tracking work perfectly fine, at least for me.
@@Juaansi With a cage that has a NATO rail on the side, it’s definitely compatible and makes handling the 6K a bit easier than usual. However, even with the grip, the camera still doesn’t realy become ergonomic.
I might be mistaken but I thought that the lidar unit was supposed to be mounted in line with the focal plane indicator. Is that not so? If it is the case then your longer cable wouldn't be needed. If it isn't... well then everything you've said is fine.
@@MultiMattRogers It should be centered above the lens, but not directly over the sensor, as in many cases the lens would get in the way. That’s what the offset in the settings is for.
If you've got the all in one combo, one can avoind the jumpy focus on calibration using the FIZ. Simply turn i on when calibrating and use the focus wheel on the FIZ instead of the handgrip. Makes calibration process much easier, especially if one has 5-7 lenses to calibrate..
Also, prior starting calibration, I actually would recommend to go to flexspot mode (small square on the left of the screen in video preview), and tap on screen so the focus is on the target, and then press the trigger button. The target will show yellow instead of white and will track the target while you're focusing, and will show the correct distance to the target but not anything around, especially useful on wider lenses.
@@alexlubensky Are you referring to the Hand Unit when you say FIZ? I was actually planning to get the Hand Unit soon, but I’m still unsure... Maybe you can help answer a few questions? Does autofocus still work when the Hand Unit is connected and not the handle, or is manual focus the only option with the Hand Unit? Are all the necessary cables included with the Hand Unit? It seems like there’s only a D-Tap to USB-C cable for the motor. Some time ago, there was also a breakout box, but I haven't seen it recently.
@@deadendboredom yeah I was referring to Hand Unit. Basically it works wireless, meaning if the Pro Grip is connected one can use it to override autofocus in AMF mode, or use it manually like a regular FIZ Unit. No additional cables needed if you opt to use it together with Pro Grip, and if one wants to use it with DJI transmission system and monitor - then you can use the included d-tap to usb-c cable to power the motor (beware that one can’t do so when using Pro Grip, it will fry the grip and the grip can’t control the focus motor wirelessly). Basically it’s a separate solution where the brain of the system is the Wireless Monitor, made for crewed gigs
@@deadendboredom once the Hand Unit is turned on it overrides control from the Pro Grip, if they are used simultaneously. The Pro Grip acts as the brain of the system to track subjects when using autofocus, and if set to AMF a 1AC can override it at any moment, or switch to MF and focus manually. It doesn’t show distances on the Hand unit though, only the Wireless Monitor is showing proper distance markers
@@deadendboredom basically if you plan to use it alone there’s no reason to purchase the hand unit. I’ve got it because only the all in one combo was available atm, and I do sometimes work with crews and lazy enough to swap between Nucleus M and DJI focus pro
That's total bs what they're saying regarding cables. It's the N1 complaint of anyone who did get the unit right out of the box, I've mentioned it in the list of issues on their forum like 3 month ago.
One can extend the cables using USB-C extension cables (yeah that totally doesn't sound right, but at least one can get them l-shaped and with any length and it does work).
@@alexlubensky After I released the video, support told me that they had shortened the pins so that regular USB-C cables wouldn’t be compatible. I really hope DJI learns from this, does fewer odd things, and thinks a bit more about practicality.
@@deadendboredom that’s what regular RU-vid reviews call “ecosystem”)) yeah that was an odd move to lock people to use only DJI branded cables. I wouldn’t argue if they had variety of cables and connector shapes, which were robust and good. But…
I just got mine and the focus breathing is not cool. Another thing is the motor is being picked up on my microphones. I am not sure I am going to keep it.
@@FollowTheJohn Focus breathing is not a „problem“ with the Focus Pro, but your lens. I also noticed the volume of the motor and I forgot to mention it (Just like some other things). This happens mainly when the focus changes quickly... With slower changes it is very quiet, at least if you are not recording with the camera's internal mic or one directly on the camera.
@@FollowTheJohn Why shouldn’t they be good? Which ones do you have? If focus breathing bothers you and your lenses have it, then that’s a characteristic of your lenses that you don’t like. Are we talking about the same phenomenon - the slight change in focal length when focusing?
Das war Mal eine ehrliche Meinung und aufwendig gestaltetes Review. Respekt das du dir die Mühe gemacht hast aber wenn man Filmemacher ist sollte man Liebe in seine Arbeit reinstecken top Arbeit 👍
I hope someone at DJI sees this video. What a great description you made of this product. The incompatibility of the batteries seems to me to be a design error that could have been solved during development and that would solve one of the biggest problems of this product: the duration of its batteries.
Great video. I heard this lens had a bad vignette on the wide end. I don't see any in your video. I plan to purchase it for video needs. Any advice for me?
@@SOUTHERNLIFETIMES If the price difference isn't too big, definitely go for the MK2 version of the lens. You could activate the vignette compensation, or consider whether a vignette is actually a bad thing and answer with "No." A vignette is very much a matter of personal taste, and I believe that if someone says the lens has extreme vignetting, it's mostly a person who looks at sharpness charts and notices the darker corners. One last tip: if you're using the lens for underwater shots, make sure the housing is properly sealed - thats how my friend lost the lens seen in the video. 🤷♂️
@deadendboredom Thank you! I filmed a gator hunt at night with my Sony A7C this past weekend. I had the Tamron 28-200. The 17-28 lens would give me a better angle once the action gets close to the boat. I didn't really notice any dark corners in your daytime video, and it definitely shouldn't be a problem at night
@@SOUTHERNLIFETIMES Sorry, I thought for some reason that you meant the 28-75... with the 17-28 there is no MK2, I think. 17mm is really wide... alternatively, there's the 20-40mm f/2.8
@@SOUTHERNLIFETIMES With the 17-28mm, it's possible that I had lens compensation turned on when I did the test shot. The distortion and vignetting at 17mm are noticeable without correction.
@deadendboredom oh ok. I think that zoom range would help me get more in the shot when the action gets close to the boat. I'm fine with using lens compensation
@@MrJayclas It looks more compact, but for me, it would be unusable just because the lidar is in the motor, which would mean that a matte box or physically longer lenses would block the measurement. No active tracking of people and operation with just one button… I see the appeal for small setups and due to the price, but I don't quite understand yet where the system is supposed to be more versatile.
@@biskero I can somewhat understand why they use USB-C. On one hand, they want to ensure compatibility with gimbals, and on the other, it certainly doesn’t hurt if customers have the impression that it's just simple USB cables that can be easily replaced if they break or if other cables are needed. Fun fact: According to a support representative, they’ve altered the length of the pins in their cables, so regular USB-C cables won’t work. Their reasoning was that they use different voltages, which is why they have their own proprietary cables.
@@deadendboredom it sounds bs on their side since there are usb-c cables that support up to 200watts now and support all data connection including 8k video. They are just trying to lock in users which sucks because are just cables! It does not make any sense since a cable is just few dollars!
@@creativegreatsvisuals The only cables that seem to work are male-to-female extension cables. The original cable on the handle, the extension to the sensor.
My Sony FX6 camera doesn't have the 'Set Up Mobile App' function, and I followed all the steps, but it still isn't working. What could I be doing wrong?
"ned gschimpft is genug gelobt!" - many thanks for this honest review. so battery life could be a real problem - do you know if its possible to charge via USB while operating? and generally speaking, when calibration is done etc. is it working without flaws in jobs? like is it slowing down the filming process? problems i know from other remote focus units: motor gets slippery and disconnects from lens --> needs a new re-calibration and so on. also how fast is the process when lens changing? like new lens, put the motor on, select profile, calibrate --> ready? and is it usable for interviews? like 20 minutes without focus problems, even when person looks around, moving forward, backward? thanks for your answers
@@noBfilm 1. Yes, it is possible to charge the handle while using it, but only with a PD-compliant power source. 2. It doesn't make the process significantly longer than with other follow focuses, where you also need to recalibrate after changing the lens. However, this changes if you're using more than three focal lengths, as you won't be able to switch between profiles with just the simple button. 3. The motor has held very well on the rods for me so far-actually, it feels a bit more secure than with the Nucleus M. 4. I’ve been very impressed with the autofocus performance so far. As you can see in the video, it even tracks people and heads from behind. The closer a person is to the lens and the larger the focus throw, the more likely you’ll need to increase the motor speed to keep up with fast forward and backward movements. However, this is probably less of an issue in typical interview settings.
Hi! ¡Great and very honest review indeed!! Ok, i need to ask... is possible to set the lens limits manually and skip the auto calibration? My lens (Rokinons) are passing the infinity mark. Thanks!!
@@javierb1535 That’s not a problem. In the menu that you swipe down from the top and within the motor calibration, you can manually set the endpoints. I show the menu briefly in the video and mention the manual endpoints.
@@javierb1535 Yes, you do need a power source that supports PD, but then it works. Physically, it’s a bit inconvenient to have to mount an extra power bank somewhere and run the charging cable to the lower Front of the handle, but it does work.
I have mine and I love it. My biggest gripe is the lidar placement and the hot shoe. I wish DJI had a better attachment that can make it close to the lens view. The parallax error can be annoying when you are trying to do close-up. Second I wish the mini screen could replicate the point of view of the lens finder. We only have 2 options. Wide or 2x. As for first-generation products, I think it's incredible. Hopefully, they will fix this via firmware or come out with an attachment to the lidar where it can sit close to the lens.
Thanks for this great review. Now I'm pushing DJI Focus Pro on the end of my "want to buy list". I hate proprietary "usb-c" cables which are really not a standard USB-C cables. I also though this thing has a rosette not this weird mounting nato abomination. LOL at the carrying case. And I've seen somewhere you can have more lens profiles stored, but maybe it was only when you pair it with RS4 gimbal? 🤔 Instant sub for this sarcastic style of mocking shitty design decisions.
@@JoATTech Thanks! Yes, you can save more than just 3 profiles. I briefly show this towards the end of the video, where those sub-profiles are in the app
@@JoATTech Magical lens calibration mattress… but its availability is just as frustrating as with the Focus Pro ;) Have you received yours by now, or have you already decided against it and gone for a different camera?
@@mauriciolee7349 If you don't urgently need autofocus for manual lenses, it might really be worth waiting for the next version or even skipping it altogether… As I mentioned, I specifically highlighted all the negative points, but of course, not everything is negative. I’d be interested to know, what is the decisive factor for you in choosing not to go for it?
@@deadendboredom I'm a green horn when it comes to manual focus. I've have always been using auto focus lenses whenever possible. So far, the only time I use manual focus is when I do macro photography. That's OK but manual focus while shooting videos is too much hassle for me. That's why I have never done it. Now, I want to use anamorphic lenses to create cinematic look in my videos. I guess it's much easier for me to use DJI Focus Pro. However after seeing the long list of obstacles when using that device presented by you plus the high price tag, I've decided it's not worth it.
@@Altcine Thanks, but to be fair, I did place more emphasis on the negative aspects than the product might have deserved... I hope I made that clear enough at the beginning of the video.
@@deadendboredom yeah that's fine. It's just good to see both sides. I think these products are ok but I don't think they're fully ready yet. My hope is that one day these systems (with electronic lenses/adapters) can read lens data through the camera or a usb port on the lens and everything syncs up eliminating the need for calibration etc. This would be perfect for cameras like Blackmagic, RED etc that have electronics but no AF.
It's very good but needs some improvements and additions via firmware. You can use simple usb-c extension cables for the connections, they work. The things that annoy me are that the focus jumps when you zoom in/out and when you switch from wide to spot so you can't change modes while recording and there is no subject shift speed adjustment for the AMF setting. Plus they should allow for the calibration of lenses from 0.5m (or less) to 5.0m and for lenses up to 135mm. There also should be an AF/AMF mode or a way to choose between multiple subjects while in AMF.
@@PabloDeBiasi You found a third-party USB cable that works with the sensor? Either you were lucky or I was unlucky… I’ve tried various cables and combinations without success. Where can I find that magic cable?
@@deadendboredom you used a male-male cable plus the female-female adapter, I'm talking about male-female usb-c 3.2 extension cables, that's what works. You want the male end of the extenders on the motor and lidar and the dji cables on the grip
@@deadendboredom if you look at the official dji focus pro video @1:37 you can clearly see the extension cables used as I said. For 1 meter long compatible cables that work search the bay for "Focus Pro USB-C Control Cable for DJI Grip & LiDAR Motor Canon Nikon Sony Camera"