Once those lead acid batteries wear out, be sure and replace them with LiFePO4 batteries because they are (dollar per watt-hour) a much better value; last longer, weigh less and trouble free.
For all those commenting to move the panels, its likely the case that anywhere else is more shaded. You can only do what you can with the property orientation and plant coverage you have!! Why dont people consider this before doling out their school marm advice and highly unwarranted criticism?!
I have a similar setup for my AC. Only wish I had gone 48v so will switch it when inverter needs replacing. My next step I'll get a window unit with a high seer rating. They cost a little more. But you can get around 10k BTU @ 350 watts if you get a really good one (Midea on Amazon makes some good ones). A cheap way to seal those gaps around your window AC is take walmart bag. Wad them up, and stuff them in the gaps with a screwdriver or butter knife. Works real well sealing the window, and everyone has leftover bags. :)
Better to tape the gaps, and cut XPS foam to fit into there. Regular grocery bags made out of LDPE are not insulating much at all, as the material itself is fairly thermally conductive. If you put loose fiber fill or the like in them, that would help a lot.
Ceer instead of Seer on that lable LOL... yeah gotta love those off brand chinese crap... as for you choice of panel placement and setup LOL. .no comment
That load controller is a very interesting bit of kit. You say you and your brother build them? I noticed you're using lead-acid batteries. It always surprises me when folks aren't using LFP for solar storage, these days. Looking at the ON/OFF voltage range options, it looks like the OLC you're building would work just as well with LFP batteries, although the flat discharge curve of LFP might create challenges, since it would keep powering a load to a much lower SOC than lead-acid. Are you able to be more finite in your voltage ON/OFF levels?
@@jasonbroom7147 good observation. We did the testing with lead acid only. We plan on making more and better products in the future. We would like to build them for LFP and for all battery voltages as well
@@MakerBrothers - If you would like someone experienced at building and testing (from components) LFP batteries, of all types and sizes, I would be glad to provide meaningful feedback. I'm using cylindrical, pouch and prismatic cells, of various sizes, for a wide range of "alternative" power solutions. If your product could be refined to work at tenths of a volt, for 12.8, 25.6 and 51.2 volt batteries, respectively, effective marketing would be the only thing keeping you from selling as many as you can build. "Load shedding" or "dumping" is a huge ask in the off-grid solar community, as I'm sure you know.
@@jasonbroom7147 I wasn't sure what you meant by "able to be more finite in voltage on off levels" yes the dials are continuous, you can select tenths of a volt. Also, I'm refining the circuit because the on off voltage can be off from what the dial reads by a couple tenths of a volt
panels need relocation. missing out on sun. i had to move mine. also this year hail.. we NEVER had hail till this year 3 times. so i am looking into some protection from that. just a head up 🌨
@@dasauto44 I bought them on Amazon back when the prices were over 50 cents per watt. Now they cost much less. I heard signature solar and santan solar have good deals
Cool! 🥁 😅 Ive never heard of an opportunity load controller. Just the voltage is nice with dials but also having a light sensor is a good extra feature. I run a 5v power relay off of the usb port which is controlled by cheap charge controller to switch load on and off at set voltages which turn one of my ac's on. The other one is on the battery load so it's a 48v relay which is just wired into my 2nd inverter switch and the only thing plugged into it is an ac unit. (Fyi for anyone trying to figure out different ways to switch one on and off automatically)
