This is really interesting. I keep hearing about epoxy resins and I’ve often wondered whether we’re replacing one problem with another, using the putty and Oakum, it seems much more natural and a better solution that will work with the wood.
So is the third product you spoke about a product that has to be put on top of your exterior linseed oil paint for wood siding in order to prevent mold growth?
Hi, what's the difference between pure linseed oil paint and the linseed oil emulsion paint? I'm looking to buy a nice linseed oil paint for some exterior cladding, barge boards etc for my dormer windows. I really like the Chatsworth paint.
An emulsion is a mixture of linseed oil and water with an emulsifier. Emulsions are suitable for interiors but not durable enough for exteriors. Chatsworth Blue is 100% linseed oil paint and suitable for exteriors!
You shoulda roughed up the surface with sandpaper before the test so you could get a better idea of what was underneath the newer paint. Even sand all the paint off a bit of it and test the sandpaper itself.
I want to thank you for this clear-headed comparison and for bringing this knowledge back to people. It’s a VERY similar dynamic when comparing cement render vs lime render. The layer of hard, non-breathable cement develops micro cracks from seasonal expansion and contraction. Then water gets behind the cement and either delaminates from the substrate and pushes it off the wall, or even worse it simply traps all the moisture into the wall causing damp and mold. We’ve lost so much wisdom in the last 100 years of homebuilding and totally sold out to big oil industry across the board. Much to everyone’s detriment.
Thank you so much! The comparison to lime vs cement is one I use in most of my presentations and very apt. It still amazes me that a lot of preservation architects understand the use of lime but happily specify a modern acrylic or latex paint for wood and metal.
I had to use superglue to harden the wood as the historical rotten wood would've fallen to bits due to abuse of plastic paints. I can't think of another way to save without replacing.
Its good that you note that keeping the original lead paint layers under the modern plastic paint intact and solely focussing on the complete removal of the modern plastic paint layers on top, as that used as a primer, combined with new linseed paint on top will make for a very long lasting finish indeed. Its good that you give this clear distinction.
That's useful - many thanks! Do you need to prepare the wood surface inside the hole that you are filling, either by priming with raw linseed oil or using shellac - as you would when glazing? I did some repairs with putty last year using raw linseed oil to prime the wood surface that seem OK, but they're only a year old so it's hard to tell.
How about using linseed oil paint on kiln dried softwood timber that's outside? I'm asking as here in the UK Tanalised/treated construction timber is the go-to for outside projects. Would be interested to hear your thoughts.
Use raw linseed oil NOT the boiled stuff which contains drying additives. Raw linseed oil is slightly harder to come by (not in ScrewFix/Toolstation), but independent small diy shops tend to carry it and it's almost as cheap as the boiled stuff.
it doesnt make any sense moving from a sound paint and building materials in general to inferior materials as a decorator myself when i was in college we were never evening told about linseed paints and were never told than solvent and acrylic paints actually rotted timber etc
So...This video was done by a super expensive Paint company that rates itself as one of the best ever...The video is PATHETIC and shows fuck all about the paint.It shows a bog standard decorator applying a bit of paint .No tech info and no completion shots etc etc .Someone signed this marketing video off ? !!!!!!!!!!!!! This is why so many "designer " paint companies fail. They really are up their own assholes
I had my external window frames on my Victorian home in the Penines painted with modern petrochemical paints. At first they looked great. After 5 years the paint toward the bottom of the frames started flaking. After 10 years they looked really bad. With rot issues in some places. I'm now stripping the old paint off and repainting with linseed and zinc oxide pigment. I will have to get back to you in 5 years time as to how well this works out...
Looks grand m8! Very curious what you said about that Danish company selling the Rolls Royce of furniture oils. Please could you tell me the name, as my translation of your Danish missed something in Google! Ta ;)
Why is the turps added? I know it will thin the paint/oil but why is this important for primer coat, can you prime just by adding raw linseed oil without the turn and pigments or paint?
Turpentine has transporting/penetrating abilities, so will make the paint penetrated deeper. The amount of turpentine should be adjusted according to the characteristics of the surface. en.wikisource.org/wiki/Cyclopedia_of_Painting/Turpentine
I am strongly encouraged by the Linseed oil paint . After only 18 months some parts of the recently painted Fascia board is flaking away . Some parts of the board are still OK especially the old lead primer originally done many many years ago . However my question is can I apply Linseed oil primer to 2 -part epoxy coated repaired wood or is something else required . I will be doing the repaint works next year as the weather does affect the application and timber needs to be dry to get the best results
I've used linseed oil paint over some 2-part repairs to my timber porch (exterior) and 1 year on subjected to the rain in Cornwall it seems fine. From my experience using linseed oil paint, it goes much further than petro chemical oil based paint and is far nicer to apply. Once warmed up I found it as easy to apply as water based paint. Hope this helps.
