Great video thanks and spot on info. I will add though that if not using a spray booth then it may very well be necessary to knock 1k paint down with 4-600 grit, prior to using a clear coat over the top, because of bits of dust and crud from the environment landing on it as it dries, in my experience anyway. cheers james
Hi, just came across this channel. Nice job Sir, your explanation also very clear to understand. That rear axle looks different to our country 2nd Gen LUV/1st Gen Trooper, it has rear cover. What gear that you have? Does it have a LSD? Mine is 9/41 (1:4.55) and without LSD.
I just liked and subscribed, I want to also do that to my xtrail because the central locking system is working but the remote is not working What do i to make it like yours?? What do I need to buy
2 pulse gate receivers and a remote with a bit of cabling should do it. If you're unsure, rather get an auto electrician to do it 😁 thanks for the subscribe dude 💃
Nope 🙈🤣 it's one of those systems that you have to press twice to open all doors 🙈🙈🙈 not really my preference but at least I know I can get a normal replacement key and program it
I have set an alarm and they have integrated it into the car key. So I don't have a separate one. All-in-one! One press unlock all the doors. And Now that my battery had a problem It started not working properly. So i have the same issue with you 😂 the factory key mode is that by the way. When i fix it i will send you the solution. I think you do the same procedure and only change the combination at the buttons that you press!. Cuz for example if you long presss the unlock button you disarm the alarm system. And if you wan to enable it you just lock your car holding the lock button some couple of seconds more. ;)
@@WrecksToRidesi manage to program the key with one push unlock all the doors.. And you do it with one key only no need to repeat the process for second key. After that cuz the keys are synchronize works the same 😉
If you put the key and turn in to on position 6 times (do not Ignition the engine) take the key out the alarm lights will blink then push and hold the unlock button on the key and push 3 times the lock button and Release them together(after the 3time push) put the key again and turn it to on position then alarm lights will blink and take it out. Ready! If you have a second key for programming then after you finish with the first key pushing buttons take the second one push and hold the unlock push the lock button 3 times, release them and put the key to on position alarm lights will blink take it out and you are ready with 2 keys :)
I've tried this procedure and every single variant of it and I cannot get the car into programming mode. This is a 2002 so it cannot be programmed with a computer. It seems there is a fault on the receiver unit that is stuck or blown which is just going to cost a fortune to fix, not really worth it as this system works and is cheap and versatile 💃
@@WrecksToRidestry it one more time because it is all about timing for these things try to do it very fast. From the moment you plug in the key turn in to on 6 times and put it out very fast! then you must see the alarm lights blink and you are at the programming key mode. You never know some times 😜
Duuuuuuuuuude, not gonna believe this but this time I did it real fast like you suggested, got it in programming mode, the button sequence didn't work off the bat but just pressed and held whatever, don't really remember and now it works 💃 thanks mate 👍
@@WrecksToRides hahah!! Told ya!! It's all about timing! Japan for life!! (if you need someday to reset the ecu system so the car can learn your style of driving let me know!) I'm glad I helped!
I remember back in the day having to drill a line of holes and screwing self tappers in and getting the slide hammer on those... But then you're left with Swiss cheese to bondo.... But back then we'd stuff chicken wire and newspaper in holes too..
@@WrecksToRides not quite. But there once was a paint brand called Re-Paint which was applied with a brush... Did my friends VW Baja Bug with it... Looked pretty good
Who knows, if I can secure it, I would anyways do a full tear down and rebuild but would do a compression and leak down test before pulling the head, not sure if one can get a new head gasket but one can definitely check bearing play by pulling the sump but yes, full tear down, check and clear rust, check and replace all electrical, all suspension rubbers and shocks, standard rebuild stuff and perhaps finish with a subtle metallic black or pearl white with the option of flaking someone's logo on 2k clear and sell as a promotional vehicle, perhaps a winery or something like that so yes, should be solidly reliable after that 😁
@@WrecksToRides The one we owned was black, it had a steel sunroof, a heater and red leather upholstery, It was the most unreliable car we have ever had.
Close né, I'm in Harties 🤣🤣🤣 this is a scrapyard near Swartkops Track. I've always been doing my scrappers hunts in the usual Pretoria West 🙄 Great for spares on common cars but this place is heaven for the classics 💃 found a very rare part for the Isuzu, that lower steering column cover that's always broken from it being stolen
Nope, I was getting contaminants through the spray gun causing fish eyes but it turns out to be oil/water emulsion particles coming from the old compressor and even this contraption couldn't remove them from the air so switched to the newer compressor and problems solved. The issue is the old compressor is from Detlev and it's a brilliant 30 year old Holpack that recycles so fast you can basically spray continuously all day with it but the rings are shot so oil is going up through into the air and, even with the tank drained, still comes through. I was hoping this contraption would sort it, but but alas, it doesn't and now just a garden ornament 🙈🤣
I usually do, I've built a few motors in the day but not too many and a while ago, working on building up more equipment i.e engine crane etc to start doing it on my own again, until then I do have a well priced and brilliant mechanic to do the engine work. This is a spare motor off the Isuzu build I've been tinkering with and basically stripping and boxing up for spares
Had problem one time with fish eyes when I worked in an auto body shop ....Everything I would paint would have small patch of fish eyes somewhere ....and couldn't figure out why ....3 of us painted and I was only one experiencing the issue.....come find out I smoked cigarettes back then...and even though I wore a paint suit ...fresh air supply ...gloves etc...the nicotine was causing the issue ....stopped smoking years ago ...but to remedy the problem ....I started not smoking at least an hour before I sprayed ....and washing my hands like I was a doctor doing surgery and changing my clothes to some I hadn't smoked in and kept in a sealed bag ....sure enough fixed the problem .....
Wow, I'm absolutely going to try that, even with this setup I had one or two fish eyes yesterday, could still be a few contaminants in the gun or hose but let's see that
The brake lines were removed for spraying the engine bay but it's also had the same brake fluid in for years so it's time for a replacement and bleeding, as I'm on my own here I find it easier to pop a tube on the bleeder, leave it open and slowly pump the brake whilst filling the reservoir, once the fluid is about 2/3 the way up the pipe, let it rest and see the bubbles float up the pipe, pump a very little, fill a little and keep going till there's no more bubbles, not the most economical way to do it but a good flush is always a good thing
You can't in most countries because of the mercury content, but boomers love having heavy metal in their blood. This dudes probably got those lead painted Corelle plates at home too.
