Take A Break Spas & Billiards is a family owned and operated business headquartered in Springville, Utah. The business was established by Dave Johnson. He was fortunate to work with some very talented people over the years, and decided he would start his own business in 2006. Take A Break Spas & Billiards quickly became the largest dealer in new and used spas in Utah County, and one of the largest dealers in the state of Utah, selling the 3 time, Consumer Digest Best Buy, award-winning, Sundance Spas, and Jacuzzi, the leader and standard by which all other spas. Take A Break Spas & Billiards, sells and provides service for the highest quality products and accessories from Jacuzzi Spas, Sundance Spas, Cal Spas, Catalina Swim Spas, Valley Dynamo Game Tables, Imperial, Brunswick, Olhausen pool tables, Traeger, and Green Mountain smoker grills. We would like to thank freestockmusic.com for all their great royalty free sound tracks
Just placed my second order for supplies. I have owned my spa 3 years and I have enjoyed it more this year than any other. I used to have to check the water before even thinking about using it. Not anymore. The Frog ease system works. Thanks.
Nothing makes me happier than that! Great job to you too Bill, it takes a good owner to make a good system to work great. Glad @ease makes things easier!
Ive recovered bar tables and we used hot water to avoid wrinkles while doing rails .i do not have mush experence doing home owners tables and we mostly used a murcury backed felt. I haven't recivered a table for ten pkus years. This video was very informative
Great video... mate.. was really helpful... Definitely made life easy... my cushions were different but the stapling technique was great and really helped..
That is a Covana Oasis! By far the best hot tub cover on the market. Fully automated with the turn of a key and insulated like a hot tub. Peaked to sluff off snow better and ridged to take on the outdoors. You can learn more about them here on Covanas website: covana.com/en/produit/oasis/
Thanks so much for this video! This is one of only resources I've found online that goes in detail about the TRUE system. We just had our J475 electrical install done and noticed the settings for the true system don't show up on the panel or on the App. After opening up the cabinet I noticed two wires from the ozone module aren't connected. The red wire is labeled A and the black wire is labeled B. There aren't any details on how/where these should be wired in the (2024) J-400 Owner's Manual nor the (2024) Pre-Delivery Guide. Any advice or insights on where these might need to be wired?
Here is the reply from the Senior Product Manager at Jacuzzi :) That’s most likely a dipswitch configuration error. They should check on the topside if dipswitch 9 is activated. Should be 3/6/9 activated or 4/6/9 if its setup for 60 amp. As we have mentioned in other info, the wires noted don’t need to be connected to anything at this time
Good video if the strip is a little lose (a few of them have sunken down exposing some wood rail that is like a sharp edge I can feel with my fingers or snags my pool cue some when hitting off the rail) how do you tighten the stripping up in some areas) how can I make them fit tighter I was thinking of adding a piece of paper? And regarding the pocket facings I have 1/8 or 3mm now and want to tighten my pockets can I added another 1/8” or 3 mm on both sides or take the 3mm off and glue a new 5mm (3/16”) on. I’d prefer to just double up the 3mm. Thanks
I've seen a few strategies employed to make a loose feather strip stay down. Wrapping it in electrical tape or masking tape to make it bigger is an option that we've seen work the best other than purchasing new feather strips. Your paper idea might work, just the tape will stick to the strip and make for easier handling. And on the pocket facings you can do either strategy. We recently installed someones table where they asked us to double up the rubber end facings and it worked out really nice.
Follow up Only having our Spa 2 years and feeling defeated trying to get the water quality acceptable I was ready to regroup and try something new. I watched several RU-vid videos on the subject. I concluded that the @ease system was something that interested me. What I needed was a video on the startup process that covered all the steps I needed to be successful. The video from Take a Break gave a thorough explanation of the startup process with many insights not given in the instructions. I decided this was the path I was taking. As my supplies were running low, I decided to order everything listed in their video. I concluded that if I order the products from Take at Break directly, I will have the right to call or e-mail with questions. Their pricing is fair and after conversing with Ryan on my order I placed it and waited for it to arrive. I live in Indiana and have a Royal Spa Majesty made in Indiana. It holds 465 gallons of water. Stupid question Time. What is the difference between a hot tube, spa, and jacuzzi? I had emptied the spa a month earlier as I had started running out of chemicals. I got in and wiped it down with water and a magic eraser cleaning the entire spa including the brown crusty ring from the water line. Now that I had received my entire order from Take a Break it was time for a new season. Step 1-I installed the original filter. It has seen better days, but I figured it was the best for taking the abuse of the start up process. Then I filled the spa with water. Step 2- One bottle of Metal Gone. Run the jets for 2 hours. Rinsed the filter and ran another 2 hours. After 4 hours it looked much better, but not perfect. I rinsed the filter a second time and moved on. Step 3- The PH levels as well as everything else were through the roof. The test strip colors were perfect for Hot Wheels, but not a spa. After adding 2 oz. of PH down and running for two hours then testing, I saw no change, so I added 2 more oz and ran for 2 hours. Still no change. I hit it with 4 oz. and another 2 hours. No change. I kept this process up till I finally saw a drop in the strip to 8.2. (I have a digital meter). How much PH Down did I use? A bottle of Leisure Time Spa Down is 2.5 pounds. That is 40oz. I measured what remained in the bottle. 6 oz. It took 34 oz. and most of the day. Step 4-My final step for the evening was to use the start up package that came with the @ease. I ran the spa for 4 hours, shutting it down before I went to bed. At this point the circulation pump circulated the water the rest of the night. Step 5-The next morning, I tested the water again. The PH and Alk had bottomed out. I added 2 oz. of Spa Up and ran the tub for 2 more hours. Tested again and everything looked great. I put in a fresh filter, added the @ease frog with the silver side set to 3 and let it settle the rest of the day. In the evening, I tested, and everything looked perfect. Over the next week there were at least 10 people in the spa. The water continued to improve. The next Saturday I added water and tested. The Chlorine was a bit high so I moved the adjustment on the silver side of the frog to 2.5. Added 1oz of Spa up as the PH was just a bit low and 2 oz of the Stain and Scale remover. Ran the jets for a couple of hours. By evening the spa was ready to go again. This past week my wife and I used the spa every other night. On Wednesday the water looked a bit off, so I shocked it with Spa Guard Shock. The directions say 3 tablespoons which is 1.5 oz. Ran the jets a couple hours and the next evening it was back to near perfect. This morning, I am doing my second week of service. I topped off the water and ran the jets. Tested the water. My PH is 6.6 and my Alk is 60. I added 2 oz of Spa Up and 2 oz of stain and scale remover. The jets are running. I will test in a couple hours again and rinse the filters this evening before enjoying the spa. For the past two years I have always had to go out and inspect the water to see if we could use the spa. Most of the time it was a compromise. Since the startup using the instructions on this video and the products listed, I have had two weeks of near perfection. I feel in control, I now walk out to the spa ready to go expecting clear sparkling water. The entire family is enjoying it. Thank you Take A Break The only other question I have currently is why does @ease call their device the Frog? I mean if they are going to call it the Frog it should be green and yellow like the Green Bay Packers. With blue and gray colors, it should be the Dolphin, don’t you think? Seriously, I would like an explanation of your loyalty program. I plan on changing the water every 4-months, the life cycle of the mineral side of the Frog. A very happy customer.
Wow, thank you so much for the incredible comment! To answer the first question, the word spas and hot tubs have been used interchangeably for a long time. However, because a spa really just means a place that you go to receive some kind of therapy and relaxation, a hot tub is more specific in that you're getting into a tub of hot water. Then the word Jacuzzi is actually a brand! Jacuzzi invented the at home spa concept in 1941 with their J-300 pump that you place in your bath tub, effectively giving you an "at home spa". They then moved to jetted tubs and then to outdoor hot tubs! So now a days Jacuzzi has become a deonym for hot tubs, but in reality its a brand (just like Kleen-ex, Q-Tips, and Velcro). So that's why they're a "household name" now. Next, to help you out it looks like your alkalinity is too low and that is why you're constantly putting Spa Up in. We want our Alkalinity in the 80 to 120 range. Ultimatly, that's why we are patient with putting Spa Down in because one could overshoot on the pH and Alk scale. At the same time that's why we recommend having on Spa Up on hand just in case it happens. You can try upping your dosage to increase your Alkalinity. You don't have to drain it though, you can still use this water and make it work for you. Second Question, why Frog. King Technologies made the FROG mineral stick back in 1996 and the product coloration was indeed green with a smattering a variety of other colors. Not sure why they went with a frog to lead up something that should be clean, but they've leaned into that moniker for anything else King Technologies made that had to do with active silver mineral sanitizers. I think the blue and grey is to be more appealing to a wider audience and be less corny, since the colors that are popular in the US right now are neutral tones (Grey, black, White, tan) and dark rich colors like navy, burgundy, and maroon. So overall its a branding thing, but at least the product does a good job, haha. Last Question, our loyalty program is that for every dollar you spend you get 5 points. You can then redeem 100 points for $1 off you purchase. That way when you come and shop again and redeem the points you have collected, you're effectively getting %5 off from the last purchase you made. So because its so easy to rack up points, there should always be points to redeem and you will get a better deal on your chemicals than anywhere else because everyone is required to have set prices online! Its a way for me to sneak around Minimum Advertising Price rules from manufacturers so that everyone will can still get the best deal online. Hopefully that answers all your questions for now!
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards You are correct. I will keep working up the levels each week when I shock. We have been using it nightly and we have been fine. Since the Frog system needs to be replaced every 4 months you are going to have a steady income. I appreciate the educaton. Thanks
This is super helpful! We just had our new J475 with True delivered and excited to use it in about a week. Still trying to learn more about the True system and how to think about chlorine. Our tub came with Frog @ Ease and curious how we should interpret chlorine levels going forward / what we should target.
The TRUE system rocks! We have it on a floor model where we are running nothing but that TRUE system in it with the exception of some Enhanced Shock like once every two weeks when it smells weird. So if you have frog ease in there you could run the levels pretty darn low and still have a nice sanitized tub. We use chemicals and all this stuff to make it so the water is good to use and just how we like it, so if the water looks good and smells good, the it is probably good!
Darn, I'm sorry to hear that friend. We haven't made a Simonis video in a while and its been hard to pin dave down to make one. Hopefully we make one soon!
Thank you, This is one of the best videos I have found that gives a logical step by step explanation on hot tub care. I have had my spa 2 years and have been disheartened with amount of times we have been able to enjoy it. Most of the time it has looked like dirty bath water. I have been looking at the Frog Ease system to help. The insights you explained are enlightening.
Thanks for watching! We're in Utah, so I'm not too familiar with those in the industry out in California. If I were you I would contact those closest to you and go with your favorite choice out of those, because having a local dealer that can service you quickly is nice to have.
Great Planes Thick Super Glue Pro CA is what was used in this video, but industry professionals use DAP Weldwood and Barge All Purpose Contact Cement ever since Penguin discontinued their cushion glue. We are currently using Barge on all our cushions.
Great video.. I have an antique table c:1920 and the wool has been replaced many times so the wood has many staple holes. Can the wood rail itself be replaced too? Do you know anyone in the northeast that does this work. thanks
You may want to contact a furniture restoration company and see what they can do with the wood. You may try to staple it anyways, but most billiard dealers don't have the capabilities to restore old tables like that unless they specifically say they have that capability. That's why I say to seek out a furniture restoration company, and then you can contact your local dealer for cloth installation unless you still want to handle that yourself, which is great if you want to do that!
Let me be one of the many to say, an awesome video, I don't have a High Dollar table, but it's decent, made by True Shot, the rails are dead, so I'm trying to learn as much as I can on what to do to replace them and felt them, I just need to find a video on how to remove the rails on that particular table. Thanks again for the video.
We do have a replacing bumpers video (that's kind of old but people love it). Here's the link, hopefully it can help! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-srqsV4a792U.html
Really valuable presentation. I appreciate the thoroughness of each step - all the little tricks carefully explained and ar the right time. This fellow is a model for describing a process, beginning to end as thoroughly as needed.
Do you have any recomendations for someone that does not want to spend 400 euro on a high quality felt/cloth? Being the first time im gonna be doing this i dont want to ruin something so epensive (either on the table or the rails) Is there any alternative to spending that much money, is the cheaper one on amazon or something that you can practice with?
Championship Invitational is the industry standard for cloth, so you could start with that. The more expensive cloths just have a higher concentration of wool in them which lends to speed performance and less burning.
It is recommended that the bracket be mounted to the secondary filter. That is the filter which doen't have the grate installed in the fitting which you can see when you remove the filter. If you're standing outside the tub and looking down at the two filters, the secondary filter should be the one on the left. The primary filter will be the one on the right with the grate in the filter housing fitting.
We can service tables in the sense that we can install new bumpers and cloth, and in some cases we can even buy replacement parts but on old tables like that where you have to rely on trying to restore or repair the existing the existing wood components you might want to consult a furniture repair service. We can handle the other things like upholstery (installing cloth), leveling, and bumpers though.
Hm I think it would work. You just need something that will staple a good sized staple down into wood without caving into the wood but being able to penetrate to flush as well. Just check your PSI but it should be fine?
Learned a ton thank you. I’m a professional finish carpenter and your craftsmanship speaks volumes. Cheers. Also is that a “standard” wide crown stapler?
Thank you for the compliment! Boy, I wish I knew what the standard is, we use a Duo-Fast Stapler with 1/2 crown and 3/8 leg. Any stapler that gets you good compression that sends a staple roughly that size will do you just fine.
We think its a great work surface when doing pool table service, especially if you properly protect the table with moving blankets like we usually do. In this tables case, it was also going to be a refelt job, so the felt was to be destroyed and replaced.
@@TakeABreakSpasandBilliards Do you use glue or staples when you recloth pool table beds? If you use staples, there's a decent demand for more RU-vid tutorials on the topic.
@@JCbrewNweld I love that comment, thank you! Hopefully I can get Dave to make a video and show him people want to see more! We use both, but prefer stapling. That's why modern tables always have wood backing so you can staple the cloth down. Older tables or tables with no backing have to get glued down.
Thank you so much for this video. All the guys are usually out on jobs so im the only one back here. So usually they cant help me out with rails. But this video is a big help
Just wanted to thank you we bought a table half renovated, thought how hard could it be? Well if not for your great teaching I would not have been able to do it. You gave me the confidence to get it right and with some persistence managed to do justice very happy and appreciate your instructions here from Australia 😅
If you use contact cement then you don't need the activator spray. If you use super glue then yes you do, because the bumper will sag unless you want to hold it whole time while the glue sets.
I 1000% agree! 100 jet spas are typically low quality too because they're compensating with jet count but never have the jet pressure to back up those jets, so overall you're left with a tub that has lackluster massage and just *looks* good. Very astute observation Wayne :)
Thanks for watching! I wish I could remove the music off of this 7 year old video, but RU-vid does not provide the native tools to accomplish this. As such the only other means would be to delete and reupload the video, which would delete all of its search data, making it unavailable to future viewers because the algorithm would no longer recommend the video. However! I have finally re-edited the video with the original footage and made a separate upload! Here is the link to the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SjKzUzLTywg.html
I would say it depends on the brand of table you got, because most of these techniques should go apply to those unless you have a Valley table, where you can actually just buy the rails prefelted. Otherwise you just have to see where to secure the cloth down as best you can using staples. Next time we have a tricky table like that we'll try to get a video of it!
I know this is a old video but it’s the best one on RU-vid hands down . Never did a table before but after watching your video and doing the same thing you did my table looks like I paid someone a lot to do mine my table plays great and looks great thank you very much for this video
I see you're using Super Glue or some type of Contact Cement for the rubber rails. My questions are... 1. How Long Did You Have To Wait For The Gluing Process To Dry or Get Sticky Before You Actually Applied The Rubber Rails To The Wood Rail Frame? and... 2. How Long Did You Actually Wait For The Rubber Rails To Stick To The Wood Before Wrapping The Cloth Around The Rubber Rail?
Great questions, with the super glue we didn't have to wait because we would use NCF Quick to catalyze the reaction. We don't use super glue anymore because it's almost too effective at holding down the bumpers and it sucks to rip them off and take parts of wood with it. Ideally we like to use Penguin Cushion glue, but for some reason Penguin hasn't really been making the cement recently. Billiard manufacturers have been recommending DAP contact cement, and that takes half an hour to get tacky and then with the bumpers attached we let them cure for a day. After that we would cut the rubbers and felt the rails.
Another idea when crushing up your bromine tabs. Stick the crushed up tab in an old sock and tie a lose knot and through in tub. That way granules won’t get in seating area.
