Does this apply for very dark scenes like wedding receptions etc? And what if your subject is closer than 10 feet- I know it’s ok to over expose, but say your subject was at 3-5 feet and your aperture at f16- would it still be extremely overexposed?
I have a Vivitar 225 which is similar just without the bounce capability. The green light on the bottom of your flash is just to tell you if you have enough light for a good exposure with your chosen aperture when you hit the test button. The 225 does not have this feature. The manual mode blocks the thigh restor completely tricking The Flash into using full power.
When light is falling awayat dusk or when it's late in the overcast day and in a darker area that shutter won't let you shoot... But if it isn't an issue... At least it tells the exposure system is working and the cells are not worn out. Apart from that... It's just a fine camera and is great for photography in reasonably good light set to Automatic A
So nice !! these days I was trying once again to use my old AE-1 with 155A speedlite. Found your video very useful. Thanks for posting. Very motivating.
I have this exact Vivitar flash system but on a Yashica FX-3. Thank you very much for posting this tutorial as this helps me a lot with getting into analog photography as a hobby!
Chuck! I use my iiif whenever I need a small and durable 35mm camera. I note that you are using a viewfinder mounted on the top plate. Did you know that there is an accessory that allows one to mount a small light meter beside it? It's a bracket with two slots, one for the meter and one for the viewfinder. This is especially useful if you frequently shoot with a wide angle, I.e., 35mm, lens.
Hello! Thank you so much for the information. I was wondering about the lighting, if I have a 400iso film in low light, should I adjust my lomo’s iso up or down to 800/200? Thank you!
Great little camera, I've always wanted to pick one up. I did find the earlier Olympus Pen EE half frame camera, very similar in terms of light meter and the way it auto adjust aperture etc Mine is mint, looking forward to putting some film through it.
I feel like I missed how you were directed to use f/8 after setting the ISO on the flash. You set ISO to 400, and then without specifying what changed or where you were looking, said "that tells me to use f/8".
The aperture chosen is dependent on the distance of the subject. In their case, f/8 was chosen because the subject is 20 ft or 8 meters away. This is shown on the distance guideline below the apertures. I typically base the distance by an eye test or you can use the focus of your camera to determine the distance away.
Hi I have a sakkar Automatic Multi-Dedicated bounce zoom thyristor flash, could anyone tell me what cameras I can use it on? I don’t know a lot about cameras and can’t find much info
Do not listen to your teacher When the book with the answers has disappeared, the teacher knows nothing. Remenber The Wall by Pink Floyd Your Olympus Trip made the teacher jealous. A TRIP plus a 400 ISO film make super photoos
I'm not familiar with this particular Vivitar Flash but many of them do also have a PC sync port. Does a possibility this flash may have it. It's usually just a hole on the side of the Flash usually built into the Flash's hot shoe area. Just keep in mind with Vivitar the end that goes into the flash is a very weird proprietary connector.
Hi, your video was great! I bought this same flash, but I didn’t know that it was possible for a flash to fry a camera. I’m planning on using this with my Minolta x-700. Do you know if this is ok?? I can’t seem to find any info on the voltage that my camera can handle. Any info you have would be much appreciated. Thank you.
The Minolta X-700 was introduced in 1981 when most flashes still had high trigger voltages and cameras did not have much electronics. It is highly unlikely that it could not withstand those high voltages.
This is super helpful thank you! But one question, if I am shooting at 1/60th of a second likely I would need a tripod to stop blur right? Normally the lowest I could go on my OM10 would be 1/125th hand held.
This depends on your focus length. Usually the lowest you can go is 1/(focal length), so a 50mm lens should be at 1/60, and a 100mm lens should be 1/125, etc
The Tlr was used mainly to photograph people. People blink. Ruins the photo. Using a tlr at eyelevel or waistlevel you can see if anyone blinks. Thats why I love them. I have a 1957 Yashica Mat with the 75mm Lumaxar f3.5 lens. Excellent
Hey, just one question, my red sensonrs doesn’t work on the camera when I pred the button, does that means that camera is not working. Everything else is fine.
I got this camera from a market for 25$ as my first film camera, it is fine, but I never get that sharp images :( I guess quality of the developing process plays some role in it
Wow! Your TX looks mint! But what battery do you use in the TX for accurate meter readings? It was also designed for the PX625 1.35v mercury cells from that time. I would think that a 1.5v/1.55v modern battery would give you slightly off readings in the TX also.
i'm using LR44 batteries that have been used in a camera or whatnot until the voltage dropped to the point that the meter's battery check shows them at the correct voltage.
I shoot with a Holga 120S and I'm fascinated with these low tech cameras. Very interesting video. But I take issue with people constantly calling them "toy" cameras. They were designed and produced cheaply to give working class people an affordable camera. Calling them "toy" cameras smacks of snobbery and is just insulting and inaccurate.
