Definitely like the build! Doing research for new fenders for my crawler hauler. Slightly different design im going to need to use as mine backs up against the sleeping compartment.
As a car and truck collector with about 17 vehicles all i could think about was Noooo don't weld them on. You will never get a car door to open making the trailer almost useless for cars. Now i hate to be one of them keyboard remodelers but you could have made the drives side removable by simply welding on a 2x2 square channel or round pipe to the trailer and then the fender had one size up tubing to slip over it and a wing nut or pin thingy. Welding the side skirts isn't necessary but does make it stronger so having an unwelded side skirt on the drivers side is no big deal. But anyways you did a great job.
Everything about this video is awesome except for that ridiculous caterwauling in the background (7:20 - 7:40, 9:00 - 10:25, 11:00 - 14:35, 25:43 - 26:50, 27:02 - 29:12, 29:43 - 31:18, 34:10 - 34:25) which made it almost unwatchable. I don’t want to just turn down the volume because I wanted to hear what you had to say, so I was forced to listen to that irritating noise too. Other than that, great video.
I was thinking to use 8" or 10" C-Channel make a couple notches heat and bend and poof drive over fenders it would also allow you to run them a lot closer to the tires reducing overall height.
Nice fabrication video. I noticed that the stock fenders were 8 3/4" high, which you called 9", but then somehow they became 10" high. Maybe due to the square tubing taking up some fender space. If the fender frame were angle instead of square tubing, the fenders could have remained at 9", be less expensive, and still be able to hold up a vehicle. Just a thought.
Can you get away without making it 10 inches high? Like 5 inches would be perfect if you could get away with it. Very nice work you did. I have the same project I'm gonna be starting without all the nice steel cutters. Lol
What you can do to figure out how high you need to be is measure the distance between the axle and the frame of the trailer so if you would completely compress your springs you have accounted for max droop and add that above your tire plus maybe ½" for alittle extra clearance at full squish so say you have 3" clearance between your axle and trailer frame go 3.5" above your tire for the bottom of your new fender material and you probably would never load your trailer that heavy but entering a drive way or something uneven like a curb or something may fully compress the one axle while dropping the other down I'm going to be building drive over fenders for my trailer soon and this is the way that I'm going to use to set mine up from what I can remember when I was looking at mine I will be able to lower my fenders 3" from the stock height