2020 WILL BE FULL OF UK TRACK FOOTAGE AND WILL BE WITH IMPROVED CAMERA QUALITY AND ANGLES ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................
@@maxrositas the remoulding is always really good with the use of the chemical release agent. Comes off easily, the spray glue doesn’t really effect it to be honest 👌
Why do they send so many cars at the same time? Because of time constraints? Why not send them in 30-60 second itervals? Everyone has the right to a clear track to perform to the max. If a time costrainnt is imposed, it's no longer time attack, it's being attacked by time.
Hi mate, I don’t recommend doing that, I have tried this with previous setups and it hinders oil flow back to the sump and oil pickup and creates much more oil surge. The key in their design is the fact they do not have a lid so to speak, this is on of the main reasons they work so well, they allow uninterrupted flow for the oil back to the sump and therefore around the oil pick up where it needs to be.
hey sam, been using the stage 1 bm3 map since before these multimaps came out, only now remembered my log in details for the app :D just a qq, has the multimap version been runnung fine for you and if youve done any logs/dyno runs, does all look good?
Hi mate, sorry only just seen this comment. I’ve had zero issues with the map, I’ve covered around 20k miles now with it installed. Just looking to change the hpfp and downpipe and upgrade to the stage 2+ and maybe the bm3 flex fuel kit. Perhaps I shall do another little video covering this step. No dyno runs or logging some with the car, I’ve not really got anymore involved with this car to be honest.
hello Sam I know this video is old but I just have a question about the killerbee super G pan. How is the flow of oil when you drain it. I just purchased one of this pan and it seems to have little space for the oil to flow out of the pan due to the added baffle. Thanks
@@JManuel638 Hi mate, I never had any issues regarding oil draining on oil changes, the threads are cut nearly flush with the bottom of the pan so it drained better than the stock item, the baffles internally have a little space from the bottom for the oil to drain away in if I remember correctly
@sam pickering how much of this can be applied to the ty856 2004 subaru Legacy 6spd? Rebuild is very much in my future in terms of full refresh for preventative maintenance. Love your work mate, very informative, this will be something i reference when i endeavor on my rebuild.
So I believe the majority of it can be applied other than the oil pump part, I believe the legacy 6 speed is splash fed much like the newer generation of 6 speeds. There are a few other differences but the unbolt and rebuild remains the same I believe.
Mint video.does any body know of official rules and regulations to get started on sprint please.? Some rules are contradicted by some of the car builds and others seem unclear.thanks boys
Cheers mate, drop Sergio a message and he will have a pdf of the 2024 regulations for you, here is his Instagram page link: instagram.com/sergevo8?igsh=MWFncnI1OWJ3dHpsNQ==
Sam, missing ur content mate! From this vid, Was it 1mm of toe out at the front per side? Ie 2mm toe out total up front? I thought 1mm was more like 0.08 deg or 8mins for an 18” rim? That’s what I saw from the trackace conversion table. You didn’t go in to detail on this anyway, so I’ve maybe picked it up wrong? Appreciate ur transparency - alignment for track times usually a dark secret 😂
Haha sorry mate, I’ve not put anything up for ages 😅 So yeah I always ran 1mm of toe out on the front each side, so 2mm total front toe out. I did the calc to degrees a long time ago and always had 0.04 degrees in my head. That may very well have been wrong as you say. My bad if that’s the case, but I deffo ran 1mm on the string lines so that you can use at least 😂👌 I agree, alignment amongst other things is usually kept secret, I guess it costs a lot to gain the data so it’s understandable
Yeah I’ll run with that. Thank you. Come on man, get another Subaru and get back at it. I can do a fair bit on my car as a fellow engineer … but your level of detail was invaluable man. Miss it. Hope you are well.
Nothing mate, everything completely oem. I have since swapped the pcv diaphragm out as it split but this is this generations pitfall across all the range it seems.
Hi mr sam thank you for the video. My question is about your thoughts on the longevity/durability of the hnbr flaps. Ive seen studies that show prolonged exposure to harsh environments can lead to change in the elastomer properties, where the hnbr gain hardness overtime. I wonder if this is something to worry about for those wanting to run this pan for a long period of time. Thanks for the video!
Hiya mate, so I can’t speak really on the longevity of the flaps. In the fairly short period I’ve had dealings with them they’ve remained pliable and flexible. Perhaps for the cost of them maybe look at them being a serviceable item? I’m sure killer b will be able to advise better though, they’re a good team of guys if you drop them an email I’m sure they’ll help 🤘
Hi mate, this is for a 2001 to 2006 year gearbox but they remain very similar throughout the years following this minus an oil pump and speedo gear amongst a few other bits mainly
Hi mate, so I’m an aerospace engineer by trade but I taught myself everything mechanical and car related. Just trial and error, take it to bits, research it as I’m going and make some mistakes, all part of the process.
Hi, Sam. Was the latvian selector finger working well for you? I can't quite decide between that and the OEM one that is less than half price. The car will be driven normally, no hard shifts. Thanks!
Hiya mate, the Latvian selector finger worked great, I would recommend to anyone that’s taking the box apart to fit one, very cheap mod and very much worthwhile.
Just a heads up for anybody welding near bearings, make sure to put your ground cable lead ON the nut. If you put the ground on the other side of the bearings you could potentially arc through them and damage them.
Hate to see it but would you consider selling the special tool you made for the out put shaft that's on your bench? Love you videos about to build my 6 speed thanks to you 🙏
Hiya mate, the tool I’ve actually welded to the bench, cutting it off would loose all the integrity and dimensions of it unfortunately. I can forward you the measurements though so you can have one made up if this helps? Good luck with your build mate 👌
Quote: yeah leave it two hours and it should be dry, oh look one and a half hours it’s touch dry! Read the instructions 2 hours in the garage 1 and half hours in the front room
ShOcK & AWE. Those "gear sets" are H.U.G.E. That is the best "close up and personal look" I've seen of that year 6. Sweet build! Very detailed & clear. You R the "6 Speed Transmission Whisperer". Just saying.Thank you for the video! Cheers from So.Ca.USA, 3rd House On the Right. p.s. Sweet gear stack torque holding jig... Never seen better :O)
This engine did around 10k road miles and then two seasons of time attack here in the uk. Some poor tuning cracked a couple of the bores (not my tuning I’ll add 😅) and it ended up spinning a bearing from poor oil control back then and poor tuning 🤦🏻♂️ I believe I did an explanation video on the eventual failure on my channel somewhere aswel mate.
you have moved the turbo over - to clear the 3 inch inlet ! i have one but was scared to grind away at my new engine ! mine was a ej205 = brought a ej207 ra sti brand new short block = spun 2 rod bearings at 268,000 klm.
I didn’t have to grind any of the engine block or gearbox bell housing with that setup mate, the turbo exhaust housing is manufactured in such a way that it does Infact clear everything whilst bolting to the original design exhaust up pipe
Great tutorial! I love the look of the Maxton diffuser the most, but I cant believe how they can charge the price they do and not even bother to properly replicate the OEM tabs and cutouts for the reflectors. Minimal effort for them and they reap maximum profit.
Yeah I never had any issues, I didn’t notice any difference to be honest in terms of flow, I made no adjustments to the calibration. Perhaps up top it may limit the peak levels of boost but I never optimised/maximised the setup to find out to be honest
Hi mate, if you push slightly on mine it does touch the exhaust silencer yes, I have been meaning to put a little rubber u trim on the area but it only annoys me when I wash it 😂
I didn’t mate no it’s still the factory connector. I think they’re a fairly generic connector from memory. If you add Brad Davies on Facebook and drop him a message he will send you a link to all the factory connectors, he’s sourced a load for his wiring loom
