Enjoyed watching that, ran a chucker for a many years, made so many parts. Kicking it cranking parts what a challenge and fun job. Thanks for sharing, its like stepping into a time warp. Cheers!
Hello! I work at a Tuxedo place and we use a Chandler Button machine. It’s borrowed from the cleaners. When it first arrived it didn’t crank so my husband and I fiddled with the gears and the wheel was able to engage and disengage at end of the sewing cycle. I also noticed that it must be threaded properly or it will fail to sew. Could you place a video of how it’s threaded, then show the top part of the machine how it moves the thread etc. Sometimes the thread just won’t move and the thread breaks too soon
The manual I've linked below details everything you need to thread it with clear diagrams as well as general tips. I just picked up one last week and it's easy to use once you get the hang of it. Note depending on the button holes you are trying to sew, you may need to do slight adjustments, but it's mentioned in the manual. The two levers with the red/blue knobs need to be in proper position in order to sew. Note on some versions the red/blue tops are switched so I'm not referring to them by color but rather left/right. In order to thread it properly, you first need to have the button holder in the down position - so the rightmost lever has to pulled forward. Once that's down, you can proceed to thread it as described in the manual. The left lever simply allows you to start a new sewing cycle. Once a full cycle finishes, a pin pushes out which stops the handcrank from moving. The left lever needs to be pulled forward to retract that pin, to allow you to start rotating the hand lever. www.supsew.com/download/Chandler/Chandler%20401,%20461,%20471,%20472P,%20475P%20Operating%20Instructions%20Manual.pdf
Since this is the first time I have seen one of these in action watching this video, I am impressed how they can work just as well as a CNC but a lot more reliable, one thing though, seeing someone getting their fingers near the moving parts might result in serious injury, that said be careful
Yup, care is taken during those operation requiring handwork for sure. I have had others tell me that there are ways to put those chamfers on the part with the correct tooling setup..I am not that advanced I am afraid.
Someone listed this machine for sale near my location! It’s really clean like yours and he’s asking for 250$ for it! Is it good for sewing curtains? Like thin sheer fabrics ?
I own a 491D200 and have noticed the reverse works on stitches 6-10 length but the feed dogs stay in one spot once i go smaller than this. is this normal
@@Brandon-lz5xc DPX5 or PF X 134 LR system needles are used ranging from no. 19 to no. 22 depending on the thickness and stiffness of the leather. You can sew up to 1.2mm thick leather with this machine with ease.
No - not as a rule. This is an industrial machine but that does not mean heavy leather. It is designed for light/medium fabric. I have pushed it through some thick material but not it's intended purpose.
www.manualslib.com/manual/562106/Singer-591.html#manual - I used this as my guide - I may make a video someday but for now this should get you through. Best.
Долго что-то.На SCHAUBLIN 102N похожее меньше минуты делается,да еще из дюральки да с эмульсией,да фаски резцом а не скоблить вручную напильником.С 0.26 по1.16 у вас нелады какие-то с резцом,задний угол править надо,затирает и горит.
Да и зачем-то резец задний на обратных оборотах, его перевернуть надо, что бы не тратить время на реверс, и обороты на сверление маленькие, надо как на точении что бы были. Нарезку резьбы с маслом разбавленным керосином, наносить кисточкой, так быстрее и вони меньше. Делитант(С). Помню как у нас бабы на револьверке работали, 16 станков было. Так шуровали что страшно подходить было))))
Great video! Shows a lot of clise up detail. Can you tell me what is the max rpm of your CK? I am looking at one at an auction but want a lathe that will turn about 1000 rpm. Thanks
would you mind measuring the length of the taper attachment rod so i can build one mine is broken off dont know the lenght it needs to be thank you for your time .jr27red38@gmail.com
today unload the ck monarch lathe in my shop. bought it from a man in Michigan left Friday just got back today unloaded it in Reagan TN would like to see your lathe. where are you from. thanks jr neff
I think I have that same mill, only a newer version. Do you know if the arbor comes out and if so, I wonder how it’s done. I’ve tried repeatedly hitting the drawbar from the back but no success. Thanks in advance to any suggestions, Jim.
Yes the arbor should come out and from the sounds of it you have the right approach. I typically just slightly loosen the draw bar like you did and a couple of blows with a mallet. They do get stuck, at least I have read stories about that. I have 4 horizontal mills with similar Brown and Sharpe #9 spindles but none ever stuck...some stubborn but never too bad. Take draw bar/bolt out and get some PB Blaster in there and at the front end too. Let soak for a night and try again. Also search Google for frozen or stuck spindle advice as the topic is discussed a lot. Good Luck!
