Welcome aboard our 28-foot Pearson Triton sailboat, Atom., which has taken me twice around the world seeking adventure. Here we share our techniques for fitting out sailboats for offshore voyages, have tours of interesting small voyaging boats, and present stories and tips on the art of cruising under sail. More info on these subjects can be found at: www.atomvoyages.com/
I sailed one of these from fukuoka Japan to Busan Korea. I hit some big choppy waves along the way. The waves would wash over the foredeck and get under the pop top right at the forward corners of the pop top. So much water would pour in. That pop top really needs some reinforcement.
Bronze might be best if you knew you weren't getting mislabeled brass but stainless is cheaper, more available and good enough so that's what I normally use.
Yes the stainless opening portlights are from Newfound Metals. Here's a link to an installation video of the bronze versions on another boat: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5x9EWCGHIho.html
don't wast money and time,this setup can't work and have hazard to health,how much pressure this pump can make ? that is low pressure pump under 10 lb, I don't think it can drive the octopus well even on air.
I couldn't say other than to first look at the price of comparable boats on the market, then add to it a value that you feel the modifications and equipment this boat has are worth to you compared to other boats offered.
great tour, thank you! I'm curious if you would recommend the same ePropulsion electric outboard/custom well on a similar boat again? did you also consider an inboard electric? seems likely to have better regen with an inboard, and one could use a gas inverter generator to extend motoring distance in a similar way to having the gas outboard here.
The two boats I have installed epropulsion outboards on are using them while cruising and they are functioning well at the moment but I did have some issues with with them. I had two bad displays that fogged up due to the factory not sealing the lens and had one bad battery. It was a hassle to get replacements under warranty but eventually we did. Also, some design features are not ideal so I am not sure I can recommend them at this point. These boat owners wanted an outboard well with gas or electric motor option. They did not want an inboard installation of either type. There are many pros and cons to that as I outlined in the following article link. If you want to discuss it further you can email me your number at atomvoyages.com and I can phone you. atomvoyages.com/improved-outboard-well/
A 12 volt chest freezer should be run only on ECO mode. Without a battery isolator switch, the batteries will squabble. You flunked the subject batteries.
I'm planning a trip to the Bahamas, hopefully positioning at Jekyll Island by the end of the year. I want to sail offshore directly to West End, but some have suggested Green Turtle Cay check-in. Do you have recommendations for this route, where to cross the Gulfstream and what weather to look for in January? I want to stay within a 3-day weather window if possible and also considering fatigue while most likely single-handed.
I've sailed to Bahamas a couple times from Brunswick, GA, once by going SE until reaching GS then E across the current then resume SE course once clear of the GS and arrived at Marsh Harbour, Abacos after 4 days nonstop. The other route is to harbor hop down the FL coast and cross to West End from Lake Worth, West Palm Beach. Mid winter is not the best time because of long delays waiting for weather windows and once you get to Abacos the frequent cold fronts make it difficult to find protected anchorages with little fetch for strong shifting winds. Too many details and variations to type it all here. If you want to discuss it further, email me through atomvoyages.com and we can arrange a phone call.
Just bought an alberg and spent the last year setting up ready to live in. I spent 17 years saving money while in the army and just retired. I could have bought newer but I found that no matter what I was gonna be spending money to set it up. Alberg left me plenty of cash to refit and travel. Love it. It is slow and very stable
I just retired from the army and have saved money the last 16 years with plans to go sailing. I ended up buying a nice alberg 30 because it can go and do what I want I don’t need a fast boat and it wasn’t a quarter million dollars.
Hello James, I’m impressed with your processes and video here. One question, I’m curious about what finish you used on the interior of the V-berth when you were completed. I’ve used Interlux eggshell enamel before, but that was a long time ago. Is this paint? Or pigmented epoxy? I am restoring a Fisksatra Havsfidra 20 so I’m shopping around for all the latest tips and tricks I can find… Thanks very much.
In this case I think we just used 2 coats of white Interprotect 2000e epoxy barrier coat as a primer and paint in one. It's the easiest and fastest to apply if you don't mind the matte finish. Recently I prefer to use white Total Protect from Total Boat since it goes on smoother and less odor when applying. For areas where the owner wants a smoother paint finish I use latex type EZ Cabin Coat which is a semi gloss and tint it off-white as done in the link to the video here about 8 minutes in. In any case, I try to avoid using gloss white because it is too reflective and highlights imperfections in the surface and finish: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LcwNSVHhaiA.html
@@atomvoyager Thanks so much for your info. I do like the matte finish. I find gloss below decks distracting with all its imperfections jumping out at me. I recently joined your Plastic Classic Forum, I’ve got a coffee-can-type hull-to-deck joint on my Havsfidra 20 that I will be dealing with and hopefully can get some detailed info on. Thanks for all you do!
Get yourself a diesel inboard! Apart from that a Honda i10 plenty of power to run continuously with an extended tank, which is easily topped up without stopping the generator, change the oil every 100 hours and be sure to oil the air filter at the same time. My last i10 Honda done in excess of 8000 hours at $1200 Australian, bloody good buying, lots of petrol though makes it expensive practice! P.S doesn’t matter how calm it is you need to secure the thing just in case, sitting it on there like that is bad practice to say the least!.
Jumped to 6:00 mark and switched off immediately! The sight of a boom swaying makes me so angry, from this to on moorings and everywhere else, these people don’t deserve a boat!
I love these videos and have for a couple of years now. Question.. When removing the inboard and going to the outboard, how does that change how she sits on her waterline?
In this case because the diesel was a small one weighting about 200lbs and located further forward than the outboard, the combined weight of outboard, solar, extra batteries and anchors tended to keep the trim about the same.
Very nicely done. Personally, I am a purist when it comes to classics like boats or cars so Indigo is as original as possible but with the inclusion of some creature comforts. Cheers.
Beautiful boat. Great job on the refit. Congratulations. Three reefs in the main, gotta love it! The Cape Dory is so much like my Alberg 35 both designed by Carl Alberg. Think I’ll keep my 27 hp Yanmar all the same. But to each his own. Fair Winds!
Excellent update James. Everything perfectly executed. Also a sincere well done to Mark not only for his determination to execute his own vision but also on his sailing accomplishments. That’s the second nicest CD 36 I have ever seen! 😂
I have the Torqeedo on my B&B design 24.5 Cat Ketch and I find my regeneration ability to be negligible. I can tell it is in “regeneration “ because the display indicates that it it. It is a Torqeedo pod Cruise 3.-with the folding prop. I absolutely love it maneuvering around, instant torque, excellent throttle response but regeneration….forget it.
I think the bunks were around 75" but you should ask on one of the Cape Dory forums to confirm. It should be possible to drop the cabin sole 3" or so to obtain 6'5" headroom but you may have to relocate or modify and water tanks that might be located close under the sole as there are on this boat.
This has been on my mind since I started the motor well modification on my A30. How much have you dropped the cocckpit floor to have the drainage inverted? This is so logical and we get rid of two holes in the hull at the same time! Love to see a video on that!
Because the original CD36 footwell is far enough above the waterline we were able to do this by dropping the aft end about 5" and keeping the forward end at the same height. We needed to do this instead of raising the forward end because of the outboard well and tiller conversion restrictions. On the A30 where the waterline is higher up you'll probably need to keep the aft end in the same position and raise the forward end roughly 3". But then you'll lose headroom under the boom and bimini, which may be an issue. To know exactly, you'll have to check the angle of the footwell with a level to ensure enough slope for drainage. At 5-6 knots the stern will squat and improve the drainage angle but there is a risk of back-flooding if the outlet is too low. We used something similar to the T-H Marine Scupper Valve Assembly | Flush Mount Boat Flapper Scuppers to reduce any inrush of water from following seas. You can watch the footwell modification in part 2 of this playlist beginning at 8 minutes thru 22 minutes here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TGyJH2vHazQ.html
Possibly, but 6mm line is hard to handle under any load and others have claimed that a full length trip line doesn't work because it fouls and wraps itself around the drogue line. Might be worth a test though.
Same way as in the video - brute force with the windlass, although at some point that won't be manageable so in most cases you would wait until the storm has moderated before retrieving.
Hey James, you probably don't remember me. It's been like 15 year since I had my old boat called pretty lucky that I sold and man I could tell you stories about the guy I sold it too... well that and the atomic 4 that I hated with a passion. I have recently been gifted a boat from Joe Dougan (spl???) And he had a 28' O'Day in Brunswick for a while, but sold it. I was wondering if have ever seen anyone cruising or modified a Chrysler C20 ND took it from Florida to Bahamas? I want to modify mine and try it on day but as I'm new to the chrysler C20, I don't even know where the weak points are. Joe was dismasted and re finished a mast and rigging and rebuilt the chain plates. Any thoughts on if it's even possible to make it stronger? Thanks, Bill
I'm not familiar with the C20 but most boats can benefit from some strengthening and safety and functioning modifications. I would join a popular online trailer sailer group and ask them for specific known weak points.
@atomvoyager thanks I will try that. My main goal is to sail from Tampa around the keys and hopefully cross over to the Bahamas... I also want to sail from Southern Florida up to Reedsville VA. And stop in Brunswick to vist my childhood hunting grounds at Blythe Island. I was raised right there at the Boy scout camp grand in the 1975. Not necessarily in that order.. lol.
It is very difficult to install the bonding and grounding system used for buildings. I have found that a large dimeter bare cable dropped into the sea with a metre immersed provides a very good ground. For a small boat I think these cables could be clipped to the shrouds prior to thunder and also to the mast a little way up from the deck and dropped over the side. All large metal objects and the electrical grounding busbars to be connected together, including anchor chain.
Bow fishermen have been doing this for a long time. Its where i got my idea. A generator hooked to powermax converters power the electric motor direct or can have batteries in between and will charge your batteries while your moving. The powermax controllers will stop chatging the batteries when they are full.
I hear that you can just make one batt bank with lithium amd lead-acid together and not need the dc to dc charger. The theory is that the lead-acid will soak up the over charge as well as replenish the low batt levels...
This sounds like the system popularized by Emily and Clarks Adventure youtube video three years ago. While it is feasible, I decided then that there were a couple cons and not enough benefits for our situation so dismissed it. People should check out the video and read through the top comments for more info: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tAuPfgZgXec.html
@atomvoyager wow, that guy talks a lot just to say something simple. I'm thinking about just deleting my engine alternator for my next boat. In my experience, I never use it and it's problematic.
I have an Alberg 30, displacement closer to that of CD27. I HATE the noise of outboard in the well. Given that I mostly motor in and out of marina, do you feel I should purchase Navy 6.0 or 3.0? Currently use Tohatsu 6hp sailpro....I have to admit my A30 feels underpowered with the Tohatsu. I'm leaning toward 6.0, just much bigger and heavier than 3.0. I do not kick outboard up, just remove it...much smaller hole in the boat
I would carefully weigh the pros and cons before switching your gas outboard for electric. If you truly only motor in and out the marina or other short periods that the electric motors limited range can handle then the gas motor noise for short duration should not bother you that much either. I'm learning from experience that the gas motor is much simpler, cheaper, more reliable and functional. One of the Epropulsion lithium batteries we bought had some fault soon after it arrived and we struggled to get them to replace it under warranty. If you use a different LiFePo4 battery then the regen feature won't work. Also, we had two bad remote displays that had to be swapped out in the first few months. Other owners on the Epropulsion facebook group frequently report similar quality and design problems. But if you dislike the gas motor that much and want to risk it, or like we did, want to experiment and learn first hand if electric is suitable to your needs, then the Navy 6 seems a better choice for an Alberg 30 than the 3. You'll find with the bigger motor you don't have to run it at full throttle which can cause overheating and shorten the life. A downside is that you'll need to rig up your own lifting tackle since the motor is so bottom heavy that it's nearly impossible to tilt it up without it. Not tilting up either motor somewhat defeats the purpose of the well. With three electric connections and the two bolts in the mount to remove, it's also time consuming and heavy and awkward to handle. Why do you remove the gas motor or leave it down rather than tilting it under sail or for storage, when it's such a simple way to handle it?
