Minnesota Grape Growers Association is a non-profit association that promotes the education and growing of cold climate grapes in Minnesota. In this channel, are 14 best practice videos on how to plant vines, train young vines, de suckering vines, shoot thinning, shoot positioning, leaf pulling, balance pruning, crop adjustment, and harvesting grapes. Videos are available now! Go to www.mngrapes.org to view.
For viewers, prep the soil the year before planting. Add your amendments at that time. To prep, use a subsoiler, followed by a cultivator, followed by a tiller. If you have sandy soil you may not need to use a subsoiler. If you don't have a tractor, then use a broadfork, followed by a walk-behind tiller. Be sure to mulch well after planting and watering. Now be sure to keep it wayered. Adding a stake to guide the vine is also a good thing to do. In regards to planting, cutting roots is only necessary if you have a small diameter hole. Commercial vineyards use efficient methods, thus all holes will be smaller. For home growers, keep all roots! Simply make your hole wider so roots do not circle. This video is obsolete because vine sellers no longer give you a long top. In most cases you will have only one or two buds. The reason they do this is because they cut the tops off to re-root for the next year.
I disagree, to a point. A first-year must focus on balance. More leaves lead to more root development. Therefore, removing all the laterals will slow root development and could possibly lead to too much weaker growth on the one shoot and a small root system. That imbalance could lead to winter kill. If your winters are mild this may not be a problem. What I do for a first-year is to train the leading shoot upwards, while leaving the laterals to grow out. Just be careful to not let the laterals lay on the ground because they may get mildew from the dampness. In the following spring I will remove the lower layerals and maybe all of them if the trunk is not tall enough to form lateral cordons. In regards to pruning to adjust growth speed, that is applicable after your roots are established. In regards to the tape gun, many clones of the original are horrible. The tape holder on them is made too small for tape you can purchase easily and locally and the included tape is too narrow to staple reliably. I have the original tape gun on order and hope that it will work well. We'll see.
Cool. I just pruned back to one shoot. Then immediately after read an article that said NOT to do that first year to help with root development... Glad this is also a good way to do it
in Japanese pruning, as shown in their video, (shine muscat) they use your so called non count bud to shoot. how is that contradicting your practice? small or seldom that they thin.
Hi. I have a few questions. 🔵 My 2-year vines are just going in the ground. How long from now until I'll need to do the same type of pruning you're doing here? 🔵 You said something about removing non-cone bud....what are those? 🔵 I'm not planting a commercial vineyard, I'm just growing 9 (mostly Muscadine) grapevines. Would I still need to prune as heavily as you are? 🔵 What's the advantage to your menorah-style trellising vs the popular "T" method, wherein the main stem is grown clear up to the very top wire, and then each of the two stems that form, are trained to go left and right, forming a "T" and directed horizontally?
This, good sir...is one gem of a video and it's the only video I've found that clearly shows the vines and shoots. Most other videos show a tangled mess of vines at a progressed season, wherein you can't see the individual shoots. Thank you!
Wouldn’t it be easier to just drop the catch wires before you prune and then raise them as the shoots grow and the season progreses? (after fruit set, beginning of lag phase)
I've been finding these thick trailing vines with grape like leaves throughout my grass and I can't figure out what it is, I haven't seen grapes so it can't be a grape vine. Does anybody know what I'm talking about??
Danke! Was a pleasure to watch your Video once again. Its a great option to learn by your mix of explaining, showing and explaining backgrounds. I ll use it for my gardengrapes. LOl unfortunately they dont grow as quick as I wished to practice this newly lerand steps. So Thank you verry much. All the best - specialy now in Covid-times - to you your family and peoples around
