Ambient music artist, visual experimental artist. Analog junkie. Exploring the mind and presence of the electronics around us, Analog Dreams is an exploration of both analog and digital visual art. From analog distortions to glitch art to photography, miniature painting and beyond - the way computers think and process is fascinating, and it only gets better when enhanced by human direction and iteration. Tools are becoming more and more accessible in ways that empower people that couldn’t create art easily before. I want to guide you through these powerful tools and help you become the best artist you can, without the tech and gear getting in the way.
Glitchart gear reviews, explainers, crafts and general creative videos by Addie "EposVox".
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There are few things in life more satisfying than identifying an issue that can be solved with a 3D printer, designing the solution, and bringing it into existence. Great job!
For the failure at @11:08 I would have suggested a ribbon of fiberglass, wetted down with an epoxy resin. Make little cuts in the ribbon, about 50% of the way through, for the cone part. Very strong & reliable connection :)
Why is there a filter on an extractor fan? That's just odd. You are venting outside..so who is it protecting? All the creatures living inside the exhaust tube? LOL Nice job man.. And just when I think I have out grown Tinkercad, I figure out a new way to do something. Yeah, I use Fusion once in a while but Tinkercad carries a lot of the heavy load.
Well it vented into the attic. I originally wasn’t going to use a filter but since it didn’t directly go outside, I was encouraged to include a filter When I used it in general I didn’t have a filter, but eh
I'd love to see more Cricut D&D ideas. I've had an Explore Air 2 for about 5 years now and I've used it for a bunch of D&D related things. Always on the look out for new ideas, though.
@@analog-dreams different experience. Results are based on the way the paint is propelled (pressure) and nozzle. Don't get me wrong, I have bins of rattle cans and nozzles but using an airbrush has been far better for me unless I'm on the go. It does require more setup and cleanup, but it's not that bad. Regardless if ya don't have one, add it to your gear. It can't hurt to have additional options.
@@analog-dreams try getting an inexpensive compressor and a cheap kit online and you can work your way into it. You're using regular air to propel so ventilation is less of a concern than with cans. Grab some cheap plastic drop cloths and staple them up as a temporary booth or just spray into a cardboard box turned into a booth for small stuff. I promise you will love it one you get it going. Way less money on paint when you don't buy cans and you can then mix and blend any color and additives like glitter to your own desire. You can do that with rattle cans as well, but in my experience it's rarely done by anyone that isn't spraying most days. Grab some acetone or solvent to thin the paint and some cheap black and white to go along with a compressor and brush kit and you'll be well on your way dude. Then just keep experimenting with nozzles and pressure and viscosity of paint, tape and stencils, etc etc You'll find a ton of uses that will justify it, and it's way cleaner if you take the right precautions. Godspeed!
I Know I'm pretty late, but those extron matrixes only carry video through the BNC. To make manufacturing less cotly, they put the same controlpanel on all of their matrixes, but the input/output options can vary. That switch has most likely been a part of an array, like the one Extrons website, the crosspoint450 6464HV or 6464HVA. Those arrays use multiple of the matrix, one for each signal in RGBHV, and a dedicated audio matrix with pheonix connectors, so yours is most likely only 1 of the 5 matrixes in the array, maybe an audio matrix has been hooked up to it at some point..
16:02 You need the old Chan 3-4 box as well as that coax converter. I believe that the coax to terminal converter is just a simple pass-through. You need the channel designator before the coax part. So, if you had a TV converter box, coax out, to that adapter you would set the box to chan 3 or 4 and then set the TV to 3 or 4. If you are just trying to shove video though the coax into an antenna input, that will not work for you. The tv is looking for an RF modulated signal.
Imagine my shock as I see the guy I go to for tech videos also paints minis :D Great video and tips. I actually have the single racks for my paints and just mount them on my wall. And yes, you can never have too much paint, I have a bunch of speed paints, pro acryl along with some citadel, and just picked up a bunch of the fanatic line from army painter. If you haven't tried, I would recommend a fidget popper toy for washes and speed paints, really nice to keep them in. Thanks again for the video :)
Nice video! Good content, good production, and also hello from another new painter. About 3 months in and I've watched the Brushstroke vid about 10 times, and finally kinda feel the paint thinning has come to me. Important for new painters to know that it takes time to get it right. I know (insert youtuber here) makes it look easy but they've been doing it for years or decades, you'll get there. Also glad to see someone else is struggling with the Goblin Tsar set! Haha, god that was not a good set for one of my first paintings.
I still don’t think I’ve got thinning down perfectly. It’s like I can get a smudge of it to be the perfect consistency, but not enough to really paint with. Thanks for watching/commenting! Yeah this Goblin kit looked fun, but definitely a rough group to come back to. I think I’m gunna pause on them and focus on some neater individuals and use the goblins to learn Speedpaints on, as I kinda didn’t bother learning/using any before lol
I think an important part of thinning that doesn't get underlined enough is wicking. I don't have nearly enough confidence of putting brush to model without testing on my hand or removing excess on a makeup pad. Slapchop/sketch/grisaille rules. Have you watched Dana Howl? Absolute legend for learning speed paints and glazing styles.
I haven’t felt the connection to that much yet; I feel like I’ll just get caught in a loop of painting hand, needing more, painting hand, barely have any left for mini haha
Speeding up wash (and all paint!) with a hair dryer! When you put it on it’s the flattest it will be so fix it in place with the heat and it doesn’t shift and pool with gravity.
I have been painting since the early 90s with some very very long breaks and I came back to the hobby around the time you started painting(about 1.5 years ago). Some more suggestions: accept the fact that your minis will be learning projects. It can be daunting to compare your own skills to the box art and not being able to achieve the same results can be frustrating. Try to see it as a journey. In mini painting time is such an important factor. Once you have learned the skills you need, you still need weeks or even months to paint a mini to the level of a pro painter. So it might not really be a skill issue but an issue of expecting too much in too little time.Try to find your own middle ground with what standard makes you happy and move on to a new project before you become frustrated. When thinning paint the common description of the consistency you want is "like milk". The paint should in no way be translucent but readily come off the brush and have a good flow without being watery. This is probably the hardest part for the beginner, but practice will get you there. I have begun to paint every day, even if it is just for a short time, since the beginning of 2024 and routine and repetition is your best friend in the hobby. I already notice an improvement in efficiency and also in my motor skills and precision. You need to devote time to the hobby to get better. Lastly: I held off buying one for a long time, but an airbrush is a godsend gift. Get a cheap one, but get a double action. The amount of time and work you save just for priming and basecoating is invaluable and the airbrush has the added benefit of being less messy and cheaper in the long run than rattlecans. Also the airbrush will get you a much much nicer finish and smoother coat, paint from rattle cans is often flaky and adds unwanted texture, also you can use the airbrush indoors.
Wonderful advice! Definitely a long, learning journey for sure! I got a lot better last summer when I was working at it for a few months in a row, I look forward to getting back to that point. Paint thinning is also a tough convo, because each kind of paint is different. I really feel that a lot of my miniature paints are like 90% thin enough and only need a teeny tiny bit of water to get there, but it's really hard to not add too much and be stuck. HMMM, I was avoiding airbrushes, but I will consider it further. Not sure I can really commit the filtration etc. setups in my space to do it right.
@@analog-dreams yes, you really need to get used to each paint and how it behaves. I use the airbrush in a room with large windows and wear a mask with filters. Since the paints we use in mini painting are usually water based there are no toxins in it compared to solvent based paint and a mask and a decently ventilated room should be fine. Also I usually work on smaller projects and priming or basecoating a smaller group of minis can be done in a couple of minutes once you got a grip on how the airbrush works and you get some good routine.
"Don't wash the whole mini" (proceeds to wash the next mini completely). Seriously, though, these are very good points, thank you. One thing I'd correct, you say "Minis are art", and you miss I think the important point here: WORK ON THINGS THAT INTEREST YOU. You can slapchop an army to play a game in 15-20 minutes per model, and DO THAT if you're trying to just play a 20-man unit. But if you want great quality on a piece, work on the things that you really want to. Otherwise you'll get burned out painting Guardsman number 112, and then you'll stop painting. Instead of "buy more paint", I'd suggest instead "learn to mix paint, then buy what you need". Look up "The Zorn Pallette" and other exercises, and paint five or so minis using it. You'll need a LOT less "specific paints" if you learn this, your minis will look A LOT better for it, and you'll save a BLEEPload of money. I mean if you're painting 30 Sons of Horus, by all means buy the green, but for little bits, or small details, mixing instead of getting Dark Moneypit Red for a few eyes will save you in the long and short run.
The wash is so tempting, it’s hard to stick to that rule, hahahaha. Just thought it’d be funny to show me doing the exact opposite. And yeah! Definitely important to focus on the minis you want to look good and care less about the rest. Less applicable to D&D than Warhammer, but there’s definitely some of these that I’m going all in on that I don’t need to be. Thanks for the comment!
@@analog-dreams I think it's even more applicable to DND, because you can slapchop up a tribe of orcs for the next game and prevent "painting burnout". Or the group of bandits. Or whatever! I hope you keep making painting videos. We have WAY too many "pro painters" on YT basically selling people useless crap, another brand of paint, or some stupid branded airbrush. We need grounded, mid-tier painters doing videos to fill that "middle space" on improving techniques. It should not be Step 1. Draw two circles (basecoat and shade) 2. Draw the rest of the BLEEPING owl (NMM, glazing, fifteen highlights), but that's what we get. You are valuable, and we need you in the painting community as a voice.
We have big vinyl cutter and heat transfer stuff at our local hackerspace. I've made some custom logos/texts on shirts and hats with it. You can usually hit it one more time with heat and paper after removing the backing sticker for better contact but don't overdo it as most vinyls start to shrink fast without support.
