Hi, thanks for dropping by :) I'm a Danish mechanic and engineer who always loved cars and the technology behind them. The aim with my channel is to provide DIY tutorials to everybody who wants to learn how to repair their own car. My videos have a wide range of complexity, some are aimed at the novice DIY, and some are for the experienced technician. At least one video per month is uploaded, with the majority of my videos being in English language. Feel free to send me a mail on autofokus@outlook.dk if you have a proposal for a video you would like me to do.
The diode you're describing is called a "snubber diode" and is used in solenoid circuits to protect the driver electronics from the spike (which is called "flyback"). This high voltage happens for exactly the reason you describe: The collapsing magnetic field of the solenoid induces a current in the coil that is inverse to the change in magnetic field. Since there is effectively zero load on this coil, the voltage "flies up". The diode only conducts in one direction (except for the leakage current) and "snubs" this flyback voltage.
Thanks for yours video ,helping me a lot, i want to check dpf on my ford focus 2010 1,6 diesel but not show me a ford brench on my cr pro when i chose dpf menu ,do you know for what?
Hejsa. Tak skal du have😃. Mener jeg fandt det på ebay. Men bare søg på det med din bil model, så kommer det garanteret som plug’n play. Ellers så skriv lige igen👍🙂
@@autofokusDanmarkDer findes ikke rigtigt noget til en Ignis Sport, så tænker det måske passer fra Swift selvom det er en m16a i din. Er du fra Aalborg?
Hello, I would like to thank you for sharing this valuable information. regarding the vehicle speed sensor signal in this case. For further clarification, can I take a wire with the signal from the brake control (ABS/ESP) directly to the power steering control (EPS)? In this case, will the signal reach the steering control, and will there be any issues with the communication process? Just to confirm.
The speed signal from the ECU to the EPS is a PWM-signal, basicly a "fake" speed signal. The ECU recieves a CAN-BUS speed signal from the ABS-control unit, which get the speed signal from a hall sensor (ABS sensor). This means that the signal not nessesarely are the same, even though I think the ECU pwm-signal copies the original speed signal. Nevertheless I can't confirm it, but give at go :)
Thanks for you comment🙂. Ideally you want a reading as close to zero ohm as possible 0,5 Ohm or less. Voltage drop should be around 0,1 V ideally. /Simon
Vi har haft tandstangen skilt ad for at skifte bøsning og den er blvet smurt. Efter vi har samlet den og fået bilen ud og køre igen drejer den kun venstre af sig selv næsten. Er der et nul punkt på den nede i tandstangen som den skal stå på.. ellers har du ik en facebook side får at jeg kan komme i kontankt med dig
HI. It depends on the ECU of the car. All the live date available on a scan tool is determined by the manufacturer, and the data is known as "PID". But is the manufacturer has not made the specific PID available, then the scan tool can't show it. /Simon
From my experience, it's not so much the flow of the air filter,,,it's more the intake air temp that needs to be monitored...just slapping on the hot air intake makes you lose power....direct cooler air and the car runs way better....the 3to 4000 rpm are needs timing advance to get rid of that flat spot,and that alone will make the car a lot better to drive
I bought this for my Mercedes 2010 c-class W204 with om651 engine. It helped me to find out that I needed to replace the ABS sensor-rings on first the right aft wheel, then on the left. It also helped me to find that I needed to replace the DPF differential pressure sensor. But it failed me when I needed to replace the automatic transmission fluid. You need to know the temperature of the oil then. But unfortunately there is NO LIVE DATA from the Transmission Control Unit!!!!!! Can you imagine how disappointed I was???
@@autofokusDanmark But, this is the 722.6 transmission, used on many mercedes-models, and I have seen others reading e.g. the oil-temperature. And the two rpm sensors. And wanted and actual gear-setting.... I did manage to read the temp by using a temperature-gun, however. Pointing it at the bottom pan. I think its a bug. Many of the other controllers have live data.
@@autofokusDanmark In this video they use a iCarsoft i980 to read the temp of a 722.6 transmission. I have the 722.6 transmission too. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xe7Bt53r4yk.html So, in my opinion it is either a bug, or they left it out on purpose.....
@@autofokusDanmark Here is a video were they use the iCarSoft 980 in order to read the temperature of a 722.6 transmission. I have the 722.6 transmission too, in our year 2010 Mercedes C-class w204. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xe7Bt53r4yk.html Strange isnt it, that the i980 can read everything from the TCM of that 722.6
Great channel, I have exactly the same car for the last 10 years , love it, but it drives me mad now as I can’t find where the clunking noise come from🤦🏻♂️, changed control arms with all the bushings and ball bearings, changed the drop links , strut mounts and the noise is still there, so my suspicion now is a steering rack , if you have any ideas please let me know, and thank you for your videos 🤝🏻
@audriulis I'm searching for little noises on my 07 zc31s as well...the caliper pins seem to be worn on mine,,and that rattles when I hit ruts in the road...if I hold the brakes while on the rough surface, the noise goes away
Hi there. Thank you so much for your feed back, not many do that and thanks for subscribing. I started out the channel in my native language two years ago, but gradually converted to english since not many in Denmark watched my videoes LOL. Some of them are still in Danish, but then I always make the same video in English afterwards. However, most of my videos will only come in English. Feel free to write anytime. Have a nice weekend. Simon
Jeg har lige fået skifte tandrem på min pegout 3008 hdi 1,5 på pegout værksted. Og fik os service og blev synet 3 uger efter kunne den ikke køre . Gik pludselig ud under kørelse. Efter 3 uger på værkstedet fik jeg ad vide at Styrekæde var blev for lang. Og nu skal jeg vente over en uge inde den er klar. Hvorfor er den pludselige blevet for lang kunne det ikke opdaget under service . Eller kan den nye tandrem være skyld i det. ? Og er det remlige jeg skal betale hele regning selv ?
@@autofokusDanmark okay. Efter min mening kan du ikke bruge de målinger til en noget så. Har selv leget lidt med det syntes det var alt for upræcis og man fik nogle sjove målinger hver gang alt efter vind og vejr osv.. Hvis det var mig ville jeg leje et rullefelt og lave alt de før og efter målinger på samme rullefelt. For at få noget rigtigt data, har testet alt muligt på en gamle Toyota starlet selv på rullefelt, og man bliver overrasket over hvad der virker og ikke virker.
That is not a good intake for these. If you got instead a k&n filter on the stock airbox or a monster sport intake you would get deffo better results. The position on this does not allow cold air inside. Also it's in a place that there is a lot of heat. I'd suggest to check the intake temps with this setup and the stock one you would see the temp difference is big
Hi there :) I know what write is a big problem with this after market filter. However, the stock air filter box has a poor flow compared to this new one, and I tried to seperate the engine bay with a heat blanket, and it seems to reduce the heat - But I have not done a temperature measurement comparison of the two "chambers" yet. But I would like to do that actually. One thing I would like to ad though is a tube with fresh air feeding the air filter chamber from the bumber, but I simply can't find a space for it.
Har lige fundet din kanal og synes du er super oplysende. Det kunne være spændende hvis du kan lave en video hvor du går lidt mere i dybden med at ændre motorstyringen / tændig/ indsprøjtning osv. Keep up the good work😊😊.
Hej Henning. Tak for din hilsen :) Tak for et godt tip, det vil jeg gøre i den nærmeste fremtid :) Skriv endelig hvis du har andre forslag. Hilsen Simon
@@IvermectinFTW When you get the hang of it, it is actually quite easy. Its getting the file downloaded from the ECU which sometimes is the difficult task.
@@autofokusDanmark - thank you once again for your help. Much appreciated :) A final question if you don't mind - can you download and upload files from/to the ECU using the OBD port or do you need to remove the ECU and connect directly to the pins?
Most aftermarket Warm Air Induction kits lose power over the stock airbox. The OEM air box is a tuned length also so when choosing an aftermarket induction kit people should consider “tuned length” and a cold air source rather than the kit sucking in warm turbulent air from under the bonnet. 👌
I believe the tuned length factor mostly just applies to the run from the intake valve to the intake manifold as it is the change in diameter at the manifold that reflects pressure waves to aid with scavenging at specific RPMs
I just bought the Topdon Phoenix PLus, that is a GREAT scan tool, better than the other two, but it is also more expensive. I would go for the LAUNCH, it's also a great tool, and perhaps a little better than the iCarsoft CR Max. /Simon :)
Hejsa. Jeg skal være ærlig og sige at jeg snyder lidt :) Tuningen er lavet specielt til videoens formål, og luftfilteret ligeledes indløbt til formålet. Alle mine videoer er opstillet og planlagte, og denne omhandler så hvordan man motoroptimerer en suge motor. Men det er altså kun til videoen formål. Hilsen Simon
@@autofokusDanmark Det er så fint og oplysende . jeg er i den grad ligeglad hvad du laver ved din bil . super job i mine øjne intet ondt herfra . . Du virker som ekstrem vidne omkring Suzuki suge og software til de biler . fed video . forsæt forsæt ..I mine øjne er alle de skide regler så langt ude at vi kun sidde og ryste på hovedet over hvad Borgen kan finde på de fjolser
@@janchristensen6335 tak for din kommentar! Du er velkommen til at kontakte mig på autofokus@outlook.dk hvis du har spørgsmål i den retning. Hilsen Simon
Hvilke program bruger du til at læse og skrive til boksen? Jeg har prøvet med 2 forskellige men syntes det noget bøvlet med alle de ledninger der skal kobles på inde i boksen 😊
På mit arbejde havde vi en gammeldags belastning brødkasse. Den gav altid et korrekt resultat. Har prøvet forskellige batteri tester og synes altid det er russisk roulette at bruge dem. Har får oplevet at den meldte en død batteri rask....
