Can you make a core magnet tutorial for 4x4? I've watched some of your older videos (more specifically the QY M Pro 4x4 vs Meilong 4M) and saw that you had corner to core magnets. Any tips or even better, a tutorial on how to make that?
Update since this is a old video that's still getting views: The non WCA bigcubes, in order of best to worst, as of 2024 are: This list was made from a mix of my own personal experience, and pictures of the cubes I've seen online. 1. Diansheng (+) factory magnetic (+) smaller (+) covers 8x8-15x15, except 14x14 which is still in prototype phase Rumor has it that the Meilong designer changed teams and re-released his designs, which is why the Diansheng mechs are more similr to Meilong than anything 2. Meilong (+) the 10x10 and above are fastest and lightest of the bunch, and personally I think it's the highest quality in terms of the plastic and the overall build (-) the 8x8 and 9x9 are lower quality and much slower and tighter than the 10x10-13x13, might be because it was outsourced to a different factory (-) due to the designer having changed teams, this series is unlikey to have new members beyond 10x10-13x13 The 21x21 structurally would qualify as a Meilong, appears to be of similar quality but is slightly pillowed. 3. Qiyi mixed (+) and (-) similar to Meilong, might be more stable but in exchange is slower (-) weird colour scheme, especially with the pale blue and slightly purple-ish red (still better than having red replaced by pink and having an extremely red-ish orange like a certain series from 2016) (-) currently only covers 8x8-11x11 Qiyi has just announced a new 9x9 that is factory magnetic, primary, with stickerless caps, likely to compete with Diansheng. So this series may one day be overhauled. 4. Yuxin (+) Has the second fastest release schedule, covering every cube from 12x12 to 16x16 (-) the pieces are significantly more squared off and get stuck more easily than other brands, even for the slightest misalignments. I occasionally had to turn faces 270 degrees because they won't go 90 degrees in the other direction (-) significantly slower than the Meilong series and takes more effort to turn mixed (+) and (-) the super huge outer fillet makes the cube feel smaller, but also makes the layers harder to grab or flick 8x8-11x11 are still the old Huanglong series, and turn better than most cubes that follow new generation sizing. However, they are huge in size due to being sized according to old generation big cubes. They have been since re-branded into Little Magics and re-made in lower quality plastic. 5. Shenshou (Sengso) (+) Their released schedule is far ahead of the pack, currently have everything from 8x8-19x19, except 18x18 (-) tied with Yuxin for being the slowest and taking the most force to turn (-) (-) (-) (-) pillowed Recommendation: 1. Just get Diansheng 2. If you cant wait and Diansheng hasn't made it yet, get Yuxin 3. If you cant wait and Yuxin hasn't made it yet. get Shengshou 4. For very specific cubes that only one brand has, get that one (ie the only example I can name here is the Moyu 21x21)
Yuxin already made all the cubes from 12x12 to 16x16 (yes cubic 16x16 exists now, no more need for the pillowed Shengshou one) While (likely) rumor has it that the Meilong designer has moved to Diansheng, and he re-made all his designs but made them factory magnetic (which is why the mechanisms are very similar). The new Diansheng series covers everything from 8x8 to 15x15, except 14x14 which is not released yet, but it's planned and there are actual photos of the prototypes.
N40 3x1 The original magnets were 3mm diameter 2mm height, and the magnet slots were fitting almost exactly, so the replacement magnets need the same diameter (to fit in) and a shorter height (to be weaker), and for added security I decided not to rely on friction like the original magnets did, so I superglued the smaller magnets into the magnet slots.
Check out my community post for a close-up look at the magnet layout diagrams and magnet repulsion graphs: ru-vid.comUgkx5Fbko-2zcowewvgW3WzuUt_P9KLPbXsy Note that the cube depicted in the diagrams isn't exactly the Aosu v7, and it is in fact the example cube from my "How to design a 4x4 Rubik's cube" series. The diagrams exist mainly to accurately portray the magnet layouts, while the accuracy of the actual mechanism is not the main focus, and it was symmetrically neater to trace over a cube that I already have a 3d model of.
Great video! The pictures and graphs were really helpful and explained why I don't like how my innermost layers turn on even big cubes. (I probably won't get the Tornado v4 Pioneer) Moyu was really quite clever here, and I wish their implementation was better.
Ironically, Qiyi has done middle layer thing long before Moyu did with the Valk 2. It was quite strange to see them implement the opposite with the Tornado v4.
I've noticed with my double track aosu v7 that the inner layers will sometimes turn without the outer layer - when im doing a wide U turn and I put my force on the inner layer only, it will occasionally turn only the inner layer and the outer layer will stay still. Is this an issue you've noticed with the triple track?
Not really, one feature alone usually doesn't make the whole cube the best. But I think a strong case can be made for both the Gan 562 and Aochuang v6 as the best 2 5x5s, just based on knowing the mechs.
Depends on whether you like 58, 59 or 60mm Then go for V7, WRM or Vin accordingly. The turning quality of all of them are good in general. I'm biased for the 58 and 59mm, so I would definitely take all versions of Aosu v7 and WRM over any Vin.
I have the vin cube, im planning to get the aosu v7 as i dont like the turning speed or force on the vin cube. Im looking for something light@@laiscube
I'm not really a tierlist channel, but I may want to compare stuff if I have the time and get possession of the cubes, but if I were to make a tierlist it would probably be (S) Gan and Aochuang v6 - this tier is just my speculation though, because I haven't tried the Aochuang,and I have only burrowed other people's Gan 5s and have yet to truly set one up to my own liking. However I do see potential in these two based on what I've heard. (A) Hong (B1) Aochuang WR, Valk 5 (B2) MGC because of pops Won't really give it a full C tier because a lot of people class it together with the WRM and Valk, and for a long time these were the only 3 good options, but I still see the other two as better than the MGC. (C) Nezha and Meilong 5 v2 because of reverse corner cutting. The C tier cubes are actually still really nice to use, it's just that there are many better options.
Another possible candidate for what actually is the Aosu v3, is the Aosu GT that was announced in 2015 but never made it to full production. It has an identical mechanism to the v1 and v2, but has a uniform internal and a cap on the outside. It is a popular feature at that time also featured in the Aolong GT, Tanglong and Weilong GTS1, likely due to moulding at that time being less precise and pieces with the stickerless split tend to have 2 halves of unequal heights. Even more things don't add up we get to identifying what are the 5 earlier Aochuang versions. We only have the original, GTS and WRM which is 3 cubes. If you count the flagship Moyu 5x5's not named "Aochuang" (ie Huachuang, Bochuang and Weichuang) you will end up with 1 extra cube. The Bochuang can technically count as the "Aochuang GT" though and some of it's features were improved and returned in the Aochuang GTS, but the other two have significantly different mechs. So counting the only Bochuang, we only have 4 earlier versions landing the latest version as v5 and not v6.
I don't know if I can put up links, but apparently cubezz sold somewhat recently an Aosu GT in blue, with its box, so it is real, maybe it was a prototype, also there's the BoSu GTS that Moyu also announced and didn't release. And I haven't got a clue what's is even going on with the Chuangs. As always with your videos, excellent analysis of the mechanism, I really enjoy watching these types of videos, your voice is a bit quiet in this one btw
I would probably not try that considering that the internal midge is entirely a structural part and not aesthetic. Whereas the traditional versions of the dorito mod target the asthetic parts, which is the head of a piece whose job is to extend the mechanism outwardinto a cube shape. I would advice against targeting a structural part like the foot or the neck of a piece that is actually involved in the mechanism.
Short answer 0:03 "This is a weight reduction mod" Long answer 3:21 "The point of the mod is to keep the outer layers the same and make the inner layers a bit faster and lighter, so as to solve the imbalance that occurs to quite a lot of cubes where they have a really fast and nice outer but the inner is significantly slower"
@@bekmurod_astanaliyev From a certain point of view yes, the Gan 5x5 did fix outer-inner imbalance a bit, but the stategy is opposite. Instead of selectively removing weight from the second layer to speed it up, the Gan 5x5 is built with an internal 3x3 that holds down the outer layer more tightly, which in theory creates a slower and more stable outer (relative to each the second layer, that is. Objectively the cube can still be fast if set up right)
@@laiscube I actually made my mgc 4x4 ball-core, and made the dorito mode as you did, the inner parts of the wings, Inner layers became good and smooth, but outer layers are kinda annoying because of its noise and I want the outer layers faster and lighter. So for outer layer where should I cut? The corner or outer part of the wings???
Ive tried both the aofu and meilong and i think i agree, the aofu is also more stable and consistent feeling but the meilong has a very lightweight turning. Meilong 6 is very lockey for me at the moment but havent set it up well, will probably get aoushi too
Ender 2 pro (basically the Shengshou of the 3d printers). It's old, slow and need steup/mods compared to the modern tech we have now. If given the money, Bambu labs A1 (or the mini version) is probably the printer I most want to upgrade to.
@@sokweydyt8831 Probably in the long term, yes to both. Jacob cubing has proved that with a stronger FDM 3d printer and a smaller nozzle, it's possible to build a 23x23 that's around the size of the Moyu 15x15 (smaller than their original 13x13) and still have it to turn relatively good.
I've been cubing since 2007. I still remeber the time when these speedcubes had only one single adjustment system. That was the good ol' Screw/spring adjustment system. But now adays these speedcube brands have to make so many extra tiny parts for these adjustment systems. The worst of them is the ones that requires a special adjustment tool and/or a bunch of extra adjustment parts to swap around with. Comparing the original Moyu Weilong V1 to the newest Weilong V10 is just wild. The V1 had a simple screw adjustment system. While the V10 has so much more adustments.
Wow, this is such an interesting design. Keep up the good work, would love to see your work made with the tools and resources that one of the big cube companies could supply you with someday. Seeing how much you can accomplish just on your own is inspiring.
The 'deleted scene' for anyone interested: Gardens by the Bay - FMC and one handed Marina Bay Sands - small cubes Flower and Cloud domes - Pyraminx Art Science Museum - Megaminx Gateway building - Square 1 Maybank building - Skewb Shears Bridge - no puzzle blended in but this landmark is too iconic to leave out Singapore Flyer - Clock Only this part was left in the video: Swissotel - 4BLD representing blind events as a group Mellienna tower - 6x6 representing big cubes as a group
