Very good video. Thanks for pointing out the detail of the two "triangular shaped brackets". Spent 20 minutes like a rubex cube, the bolt pattern matches two other holes near that location but impossible to reach. I see now where it goes. I could not find that link you mentioned to the manual. Your video covered it well I probably dont need it now, but for parts I probably should have one. I also didnt know what that black bracket was for (the tool box holder). GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO!!!!!!! Thanks Terry
Hi Terry, I’m glad it helped you out. I just updated the video description and included a link to the BH77 manual and it goes over the subframe as well. Good luck!
Great video. I do have a question I am having difficulty finding an answer. I have a L3800 Kubobta. How difficult And is it practical to add and then remove the Subframe bars. I already have rear hydraulics i installed and work great. After I installed my new backhoe and all functions fine, I discovered that I probably need a subframe. Now I am terrified of even moving my tractor much with the backhoe weight all on the 3-point. However I will use the backhoe probably about once or twice a year. Other 3 -point implements frequently as everyone else. Therefore removing the reinstalling the subframe once a year for a digging project, as a pond, I am hoping wont be a major issue. Maybe......Thats why I am asking you. About how long to install the subframe? and what is difficulty level? NOTE: I have read many people have difficulty with 3-point adjustments with the subframe bars, especially with the tall ears in the back. The L3800 compact tractor is tight back there anyway and sometime the 3 point can slightly rub the tires depending on the implement. Hence...removing the subframe. Thanks Terry
@@terryshort1361 Hi Terry, It sounds like you have an aftermarket backhoe that attaches to your 3 point? This Kubota backhoe is a little different. Before even installing it I have to completely remove my 3 point hitch. The backhoe when installed attaches the subframe at 4 places, two catch pins at the bottom and two large pins at the top. The subframe is two large pieces of steel bolted on each side of the tractor frame and extend about 3/4 of the tractors length from back to front. There are ten or so bolts torqued to spec holding each side on. When the backhoe is removed the subframe stays attached and I reconnect my 3 point for whatever implements I’m using and the backhoe subframe doesn’t interfere with anything. Hopefully that answers your question.
@@flowerytrailsfarm7261 Yes thats correct, its aftermarket. its a Titan Back Hoe. Thanks you did answer my question. Again, Great video and thanks for the rapid response.
MY L2502 land on Dec 21. Damn I forgot to get the dealer to install a block heater. I tested it cold start at 0 c 32 F. It turned over quick and started. It ran ruff and smoked for 45 seconds. I'm ok with that. I will install a block heater the next time I have it in for service but until then if it gets cold and I"m going to be using the tractor the next day I will put an electric household header under the motor and block it in with styrofoam. I did this before with another machine I had and it worked amazing at - 40 Celsius. I use to leave the heater run overnight but I do believe running the electric heater for 2 hours would do the same thing.
Nice Job ! I have the 3301 and same lifting capacity as the 2501 I’m glad I bought a tractors It has paid off so many times any have done many things I would have not done without it Be safe Thanks for sharing Phil PFON
curious about the amount of power under load getting up steep slopes. I'm in the market for one and my property is hilly. I've heard others say the 2501 bogs down getting up hills and go with a 3901 or better. Your experience?
I researched tractors for two years before buying one. I wanted a Kubota but they are light and weak as far as loader capacity goes. I ended up buying a kioti. It lifts almost twice as much as a similar size Kubota and less money also. Kubota is a great tractor just not very strong in comparison.
A Ck2610 lift capacity is 1631#, a kubota l2501 is 1131#. Only a 500# difference. When I saw what the resale was for a Kioti and the dealer network, I quickly bought a Kubota.
@@nickg2366 now do loader capacity. Your kioti numbers are 3pt. Thats what sold me on the kioti. An L series Kubota doesn't even come close. Its like 12 hundred pounds compared to over 18hundred pounds. Plus the kioti is much heavier also. My local Kubota dealer told me I would not be happy with a L 2510 . It was the first tractor I looked at and is what I wanted to buy. He is very honest. Kubota always have lower hydraulic pressure than comparable machines not just tractors but excavators as well. Kubota makes a great machine but dollar for dollar kioti kills them.
I noticed the ROP too. Trying to push lifting limits on an icy sloe and his ROP is folded down...I bet if someone would ask him why he would just say "I never use the ROP"
Not a good idea to use a ratchet strap over a cutting edge ! The first bag surprised me when it jerked that it didn’t shear the strap on the way out of truck.
You could make something to go from the tube in the loader frame on each side. Maybe a chain straight through for two corners and a chain to the front of the bucket on the front.
That’s probably the best way to pick them up being a thousand lbs. I saw this because all that weight is under the hinge pin which is rated for 1,050 lbs. as you move farther out your loader weight capacity you will loose. So if you had pallet forks on and trying to pick up that way. You most likely would not be able to pick them up. I know this because when I had my L3301 I couldn’t. Kubot rates there loader 800mm out from the hinge pins. So at the hinge pins you would be able to pick up more than say center of your bucket. That’s why your able to lift those heavy bags. Your weight is center under those pins. Just make sure you have enough weight in the rear or your flip that tractor.
That funny looking thing that Is sticking up behind the seat Is called the ROP. Roll Over Protection. This would be a Great time to have it in the Working position.
Looked like 878lbs. Feed suppliers now a days are shorting everybody 90% of the time. Do you have a scale? Sometimes feed is sold by volume to a known weight. Your limit has NO SAFTY MARGIN at that Weight. Cast off the bucket & re-rig closer, for "some safty". We don't want to be "reading about you". Thanks for the Vidio Sir and happy safe tractoring .
@@flowerytrailsfarm7261 You can make a small extension on the barn with enough clearance to accommodate the pig feed. With a little inginuity it can be done. Where there's a way there's a will. Good luck mate 👍
@@flowerytrailsfarm7261 I’d have done the same but what he’s saying about a little extension to store the food would be cheaper that a new tractor so probably cheap insurance
@@Morpheen999 well then leave yours down and drive your tractor sideways on a 20 degree incline. Let me know which hospital you'll be at I'll come and visit. 😂
Oh yea, " twac-tor, owner-loaner's" are constantly smash-a-lating there flimsy front axles. Causing seal leakage (first sign) & bearing ( pivot trunion) breakage right off the bat! Then "boo-hooing" to the dealer's over a warrenty issue. The dealer promptly tells the "loaner" to haul it in & "we will take care of it". They do and , approximately 3 1/2 weekes the twack-tor is ALL FIXED UP ( under a warrenty claim). This might be great to have an 1800.oo$ repair done for FREE, but it will be the "Last time". Have done this for my many associate's "on the side" ( still not cheep) averaging 350.oo$ per side,(Just for seals). The parts are not cheep, and could go to 1600.oo$ for a whole steering drop spindle replacement, plus labor. Kubota " purposely " runs low hydraulic pressure & small cylinders as does John Deere ( both in their small "twack-rors"), to Prevent "FRONT AXLE OVERLOAD". Counter-weighteing on the three point (heavely) helps. Wheel weights or filled tires , does NOT Help the "poor little front axle"from over-load. These little machine's are "helpers to the wheelburo's", they are FAR from being indestructible.
You know every Kubota I've ever owned had leaking front axles even the one I had that didn't have a loader. My Massey's though I've not had that issue and I just wonder if it's the style of axle and bevel gear thelat Kubota uses. Also the Kubota seems to have a tube style axle while the Massey has a cast front axle. I wonder why Kubota doesn't make them with a cast iron axle?
@@wdglockandroll yeah they are more so then the last one I had but they still didn't seem as beefy as the Massey. I looked hard at the Kubota and really wanted to buy but the Massey seems heavier built and it does weight more.ill try to get a pic of my front axle for comparison.
@@flowerytrailsfarm7261 YIKES, we bought ours as a package deal with loader, backhoe and the dealer threw in a forklift attachment. I bought a quick change snowplow for it afterwards. It works well. I noticed that you have a hydrostatic drive. I went with the standard version. I don't like having to keep my foot on a pedal to keep moving. Be safe on that ice.
@@BlakeConnor I a ran chain around my bucket and ended up bending the top of the bucket. Forks keep the weight lower and puts the pressure on the loader frame. and you can keep the load closer in. And, If the bags were on a pallet that would be even better
You're absolutely right! I really appreciate you mentioning that! If I was hauling it any further I definitely would have. It actually felt very stable with the tiller for rear ballast and I kept the sack close to the ground and my hand on the loader lever in case I needed to drop it real quick.
We had a tractor rollover and injur a family member one time and it happened in way less risky conditions than you had here. He was thrown from the tractor and was lucky to not get killed. Lifting near full height and weight on ice.... hard to imagine a better time to have rops up and seatbelt on. Glad you didn't get hurt but that's pushing your luck too much imo
