I would like to use this channel to help others in getting started with heavy equipment by answering some of the questions I had when I bought my first tractor. I have been in construction for about 20 years now and have had the opportunity to use all kinds of equipment over the years. on top of that I got my pilots licence about 7 years ago as well, so I have had the opportunity to live out one of the dreams I had when I was younger and had thought was not ever going to be a realty for me to ever do. In 2021 I bought my first mid-size tractor a l2501 to do some dirt work around my home in Arizona. The price of which was a lot more than I thought I should have spent for just home use. I was not thinking or doing so to replace my full-time job. However, when word got out that I had a tractor I started getting request for side work. That's when I started to look into getting a bigger tractor, my m62 in order to have a very capable piece of equipment. It has just snowballed from there.
Do you know if both front and rear work lights are controlled by the same green button on the dash? Is there any way of illuminating front or rears separately?
I really have to thank you because after watching your videos, I decided to go for an M62 and I couldn’t be happier. I found a used one exactly like yours with the box blade and top and tilt kit, except that is mounted on the rops and connects to only 2 of the 3 ports used by the backhoe hydraulics. However I cannot quite wrap my head around the functioning of the 2 diverter levers, nor i can find specific information anywhere. The manual says to push them back in the backhoe position if they’re going to be used with an implement +diverter valve, however when I did so the tractor ran extremely poorly, and the oil overheated immediately. I did a few experiments, and the only working combinations seem to be one lever pushed in and one lever pulled out. At this point, I am assuming that each of the 2 levers controls an independent circuit and feed each one of the larger port in the back. Since my diverter kit only feeds off one port I need to divert only one circuit, but I am left to guess which one. Hopefully I got it right and I am not damaging anything, but I thought to see if you had the same problem. I was very surprised I couldn’t get any more specific information on those two (or one??) diverter valves anywhere. It is my first machines so any help will be greatly appreciated!
In my case, when the rear remote is plugged in and both diverter valves are push in the tractor won't run well and overheat immediately. it will even have trouble starting. The only combo it worked was one pushed in and out pulled out. I have the owner manual and it doesn't say anything other than: "When the hydraulic couplers at the right of the tractor are utilized as a hydraulic outlet, swing lever is switched to "with backhoe" position." Talking about lever and not levers, it seems to imply that only the right hand diverter (which is also linked to the front lever), need to go in the pushed in position, while the left hand lever stay pulled out. It is just not very clear. Also, if they are always supposed to be in the same position together, why not connecting those lever together to make it foolproof? Are there shop manuals available?
Do you feel the HR35 series is nessecary vs the HR25 series? Do you think the 78" is better/worse than a 72" for this tractor, how about the 84"? What exact size/model is this box blade? Did you get the ripper sagging/dropping issue resolved? (what was the fix?) Thanks!
How long was the trench and how long did it take to dig it? I am thinking of renting a U-10-5 to do some drain and water lines at my home in NJ about 300’ at 3 to 4’ deep
When changing finals lube. When possible i lift that side and spin the track for a minute to stir up any sediment beforei drain it. If the fluid is really worn i will refill. Run the track again. Then drain and refill again. An extra few minutes and extra cost for more lubw is far cheaper than a replacent final drive or gear set
That rock was a pity. Some companies do not tell you what to do with maintenance because they want to sell you parts at outrageous prices. A short piece of !/4" thick wall angle would only cost about $20 bucks.
yeah you would think it would not be hard to cover a vital pinch point like that. at some point ill probibly fab up something to cover that hole area so it cant happen again
Could you do a video digging with an auger, 24inch or 18inch. My projects typically involve me making a 18inch hole 4 feet deep. Cool video btw, straight & simple to the point.
at least where I am the soil is to rocky and hard to effectively use an auger on the u10 of those sizes. in the future I have a possible project I may get an auger though for my larger kx040. do you currently have any equipment
@@dirtydiggerm62 I'm shopping, I went to store today and saw a bobcat e10, these 2ton sany, and a 3 ton sany. I do construction and been renting, and live on a ranch. Ideally I would want something to do both, dig graves, grow the pond when it drys out, remove stumps, and... business of digging 18 inch auger size holes 4 feet deep. And maybe once every 2 monthhs a 4'x4' 5foot deep hole for larger columns. I live in hard Rock south texas. I want small one to fit in back yards but strong enough to dig too
i dont know what the soil type is your digging in. if its soft you may be able to get away with the u10 or you may think about going the next size up which is double the power and is only slightly wider but has double the power. units i would be looking at are like the kx018 or the u 17 if the clearance is not a problem.
Nice video! I like your press tip idea too. Here is an idea for you: Get some E600 glue and glue your "spacer nuts" into your press tip jig. That way you aren't chasing your parts all over the place.
yeah i did end up making a more refined tool after doing this proof of concept. i ended up making a more solid tool all welded up. thanks for the idea though
I think the outrigger feet should have larger pads and be taller so as to stabilize better. Having a full bucket and trying to move quickly left or right to dump the bucket will tip the machine. Another modification would be the rear emergency brake position. It’s a knuckle ripper. I wish the exhaust discharged differently. When it is dry and dusty, it creates a cloud since it’s directed down. Other than that, it is an awesome machine. My arm pads wore quickly like yours, but nothing terrible.
Looks like that ripper works might damn good. Not that you would want to, but how does it hold up to hammering on a piece crete to break it up? Yeah, you'd be much better off picking up another piece of crete and dropping it on another one to break it all up, but is the build quality good enough to make a few strikes here and there?
1:37 NO, do not do that, unnecessary movements with your hand. Do smooth, nice, slow. You can move or rotate fast, but stop slow and smooth. Right now you are just slowly killing machine.
I'd like to see the rec'd service for the M62 to include all filter changes if necessary. Also YOUR opinion on what you really need to do for the service intervals. Also I wish my M62 has a cargo carrying method. I think with the back digger removed I will built a platform bag but I don't want it to get in the way. Thanks DD.
Can't hear you at the end. Also in future videos I'd like to see this in 1st person GoPro view so we can see ALL the details. Also discuss bushings used. Thanks brother, this video was still very helpful.
I just picked up a 040 with the hydraulic coupler. My switch has three positions. I actually holds the coupler opened. Then when you push the switch down it closes the coupler. But it seems like it seeps down in the time you get to the next bucket
I have noticed that mine seeps down. Just picked it up 2 days ago. The lock also does not fully engage with the slots. If I just put a pin in with no bucket it does fully close. I reached out to the dealer and they are looking into it.
I got mine , same spec about the same time as you. The diy pre cut tint kit was a good investment. You can add manual diverters for about 250 or electric one for about 500. Or just add quick connects to the thumb and aux . Very happy w mine which was an upgrade from my kx033 open station
it depends on how hard the soil is to dig the u10 on un compacted soil dose a good job but is about %50 slower than the m62. it is good thought for tight places and is good at getting the spoils out of the way better than a backhoe
Hey Brother we just got are Kubota m62 in at Kubota And the backhoe tilts to the left a couple inches. Looking from the front of the tractor. Is that normal. Does yours do that. I’m hoping you could let me know today before we sign the contract.
the m62 is great for moving a lot of material when you have room to move around as well as grading and has a good digging depth as well. about 2 ft more than the kx040. but when it comes to a backhoe vs an excavator it's a night and day difference when it comes to digging. the excavator allows you to swing around 360 degrees when you have to dump your spoils. it runs quieter. it's also more comfortable to operate since the controls are right at your arm rest instead of in front of you. it also has the cab with ac. its more manurable and able to get in and out of tight spaces.
@@dirtydiggerm62 Alrighty. Which would you recommend for a DIY house build? Having just the M62 or L47 would be far easier maintenance wise, as well as financially. But I don't want to find myself in a situation where I don't have the equipment necessary to do the job, and regret not getting a mini ex, and standard tractor, or skid steer.
it really depends on what your needs are. how much you need to lift, how deep and how much digging you have to do, how hard the ground is your digging, are you digging out roots and things like that. If you're doing this for a business of for personal property maintenance
loll as an electrician I don't know how may wires I have had to fix because the drywallers have cut them because they are in a rush or over cut the opening to where you have to shim the device that's going into the box. I just see a lack of caring for the next trades that come by after they get done. it's easy to go fast if you don't care about the quality of the work. on almost every home I have worked on I have to find covered boxes and damaged wires. a zip saw which i do have has a place but the time savings is not much
I’m a 360 operator , use the 1/3 rule which crossing ditches etc. any more than a 1/3 of the width of your tracks and your asking for trouble. You where doomed from the start bud
That is a very interesting coupler, kind of like the European wedge coupler. I think its a very good design. Also the coupler hose routing is super unique. seems better then most house routing on a mini, very clever.
when I saw how they did it I thought it was definitely taking the time to do it right and make sure to protect the hose. its only downside compared to other quick couplers styles is that you can't reverse the bucket but you don't lose the breakout force so I think that's a better tradeoff
I have the very same machine with telematics less the hydraulic quick coupler option. I absolutely love it! The 6 way blade is a game changer. The only issue I have with mine is the fuel filler plastic filter insert takes fuel so slow that the fill beeper doesn’t work correctly. Since I use double filtered fuel from my own tanks I just removed it and the beeper works fine. I’m pretty sure though that you don’t need a diverter up front as the secondary/aux hydraulic lines have a diverter valve under the right side cowling over the top of the battery to switch it from dual directional flow for like an tilt bucket to one way flow for a brush cutter or mulcher.
it depends on what attachments you need, and the flow needed. i don't currently need to use both but like to option. if you're just using a tilt bucket and the thumb the two will cover it. if you go to a tilt rotor or other complicated attachment you may need more. also, the stock setup for the thump shows the line for it to be connected to the high flow (left stick switch) and I had it installed on the new second line since it does not need the high flow to operate without problems
yeah, it doses but I have had a few jobs I have had to pass on because the m62 backhoe could not get it done and i save time not having to switch back and forth between the backhoe and the box blade so its going to fill that need and pay for itself. plus, an excuse for a new toy. lol
LMFAO first of all, why would you travel with the bucket that high anyways you change the symmetry of the machine any of the machines out there will do that you ride around the bucket loads the ground and then you get to the dump trailer or the site where you have to dump it and then you raise it up and dump it you never travel with the bucket up that high
