i certainly hope you got an engineer to stamp cutting all those trusses, but it's pretty damn weird that you didn't mention this or tell people that you can't simply cut trusses..... 😮
Not that I have found. Most of the smaller fans have built in shutters and you cut your own hole. like this. amzn.to/3AEmP7p. Your best may be to cut a larger opening.
@@m10stuffLmao must have been the main cord I didnt plug in fully, just in case you see someone say this again, advise them to pop their frunk out and reinstall and then reboot the truck by holding seek right and volume down for 20 seconds or so
You would be better off placing it in a new purpose-built opening opposite that huge vent. That beautiful oversize vent compromises attic air passthrough by allowing bypass air in, and the large horizontal metal louvre slats and wood structures impede flow. This is effectively a sabotaged job.
You’re right. But nobody makes attic vents with a purpose-built opening for a fan. That’s why there are universal fans like this that still help increase airflow in an attic. This is how it was made to be installed. Nothing sabotaged about it. It still draws air in from other vents and blows it out the attic. Mission accomplished!
Pro tip, if you have vents on both ends of the attic, you can buy two of these, or other attic fans, and disassemble it to reverse the direction the fan blows and then put it back together. Then have one push while the other pulls.
They were. I should have waited longer between coats and used a new kit for the last coat. But they were drying quick in the heat and ready for another quote before the product was unusable.
I've installed one attic fan on the north side of the house. It's working okay. I'm thinking of adding another fan on the south side for extra cooling. My attic is 1,000 sq ft. Are there any drawbacks to doing this?
The instructions say the attic fan needs to be installed in front of a vent. My house is old with slits instead of vents. Is the vent necessary? The way I see it, the fan will blow out hot air whether there is a vent of not.
It is still possibly to do, just more complicated. You’ll have to dislodge the old one and pull the wiring and exhaust ducti down to connect to a new fan
Without the fan "sealed" onto the gable vent, would it just draw air from outside through the frames around it rather than from the other end of the attic? My old fan is dead, and its just mounted in space behind a large triangular gable vent. I need to get a new fan, and im kinda rhinking i need to board up the rest if the gable vent around the fan. Is that necessary/advisable?
Most attic fans don’t have any controls at all. They work strictly off of temperature settings. This is no different. The app just lets you change those setting without climbing into the attic and changing them manually.
@@m10stuff but apps have to be updated frequently to be able to run on whatever operating system you are using. If the company stops updating the app, and you get a newer system, that app may no longer work. It will happen eventually. A mechanical thermostat stops working, you go by a new one cause they operate the same way.
Thank you, I have a whole house fan from 1950 I thought I had a manual for it but unable to find. I went to attic and saw the belt probably original I never changed it I’m here since 1991, went on line tried to find original it’s a Vernco, 28274DF where could I find that? Also where on the motor is the oil port. I believe back 30 yrs ago I use to oil it but my memory is shot. The motor is from St Louie Mo, USA. Model number K55RXRL-8033. Serial Num 30052. Any suggestions Ty
A proper belt at the proper tension is very important. Im not seeing anything online for that. A small motor shop may be able to help. As far as energy efficiency and CFM, it may be time for a complete upgrade.
The top chord and bottom chord of the trusses are still in tact and continue to the peak of the roof. Only the web portions in that area were removed. The sistered in 2x are just reinforcement for the top chord in that portion for the roof support.
There’s a lot to factor in that cost. I’d have to make the foundation larger in this case. There are a huge variety of shower options. You can do a simple insert kit for $500, plus plumbing to the macerator, could be as low as $1000 in materials plus labor.
I have an older model of this fan. Mine does not have the smart App connectivity feature. After 7 years of operation, it stopped working. My unit has a 15-year warranty. I'm about to request for a replacement. Overall, I had been very happy with this attic fan. Hopefully, the newer, updated model will have a longer life span.
I'm curious. One gable is on the northern side of my house which gets shade from a persimmon tree from about 1pm - 2pm onward. The southern gable is just above a metal carport roof. My gables are triangular, and I really don't want to box one gable in to get a "perfect" seal so to speak. I was wondering if mounting one of these fans in the middle of the attic, pulling cool air in from the northern side, pushing the hot air out the southern side would work? Granted it wouldn't be the most efficient in doing so, but my thoughts are with a high enough CFM, in theory, it should work. My house is just 1,000sq ft. and the roof is relatively low pitch, so the attic isn't that large. When it's cool enough in the evening, I use a 20" high velocity fan (5,000CFM I think) in one window, and open the others, works like a charm. I just need something to push out the attic heat when I can't open my windows. Thoughts?
It may help a bit, but because the air would take the path of least resistance I think it would just circulate the air that’s already in the attic much more than bring in fresh air and push out hot air. It really needs to be mounted in a way to force air in our pull air out.
