Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. One question, though. I'm assuming, having fitted the drawers, runners, and doors, you then took everything apart to paint. In my experience, knocking up the units is the easy part. The sanding, painting, drying time, and repainting is the time-consuming aspect of the project.
Hi yes you are dead right after mocking everything up to make sure it worked. I then stripped it all down to paint which I did not show. I have since made a video showing how the painting is done for anyone interested. Thanks for watching
Hey Tom, thanks for the great video. You mentioned in the comments using 18mm mdf, was that bog std or did you use MR? I’ve built some airing cupboard doors out of MR and they’re pretty heavy but also noticed the quality of mdf varies so much. The Medite stuff I’ve seen isn’t stocked locally to me and some of the available MR is hard on the outside but like Weekabix on the inside 😂
Hi, it was a little while ago now that I built them, but I think it was all standard MDF. Basically, it was what I had in stock in the workshop But yes, the MDF quality does vary a lot. Thanks for watching
Hi thanks a lot. As regarding the corner clamps I have added a link at the bottom of the video description for Amazon where you can get them. Thanks for watching
Hi if you still have the Makita saw, could you possible measure the height of the handle from the bench when the saw is in the fully open position please, ( I'm just a small guy) I can't seem to find that measurment anywhere. Thank you.
Hi, yes, I do still have it and use it every day. The measurement from the bench when the saw is fully open is 730 mm or almost 29 inches. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching
I made some chevron cutting boards today and realized that the second glue-ups are all end grain to end grain. Just wondering how your boards are holding up after 2 years? Any glue joints failed? Thanks Tom!
Hi Tom, A good way to make the cabinet doors with just basic tools to hand. Plenty of good tips and advice always good to know. Your workbench draw fronts and doors look amazing. I'm thinking of re vamping my workbench in a year or two and I like what you have done I will probably go the same way as you in my workshop. As always a great video, catch you soon, take care
As always, I'm glad you liked the video. Good luck with revamping your workshop. What i have done there was a little bit expensive, but I think it was well worth it for the finish. Thanks for watching
Ive just bought this saw and am returning it. The cuts are wavy, i think due to the 1.6mm thin blade. My 18 year old bnq pro brand mitre saw is much more accurate. But much louder!
Hi, yes, this saw has a few problems. The cheap build is the biggest. As I'm sure you could tell by my review. I was not impressed with it either. Sorry you've got to return your saw but thanks for watching.
HiTom, I am looking to build a few cabinets myself. I am looking to buy a cheap table saw. Can I just switch the sawing blade to make the grooves for the back panel? Should it be 6 mm or which thickness? THanks for your help!
Hi, in the UK, we can only get 1 thickness of blade. To form your groves for the back panel, run your material through once, then move the fence. And run through again, giving you 6 mm width. Hope this helps thanks for watching
Handrail for staircases is usually around 65mm across and that is the way its placed on the saw to cut the angle cuts. 50mm just isn't deep enough for cutting handrails which rules this saw out for me.
I got pack 20 blades for my Makita for £14 The vibration is super low the power button locks unlike DeWalt The quick release on DeWalt can get in way the Makita quick release won't . The brushless Makita will last years the dewalts smaller motor won't and will run hot . Makita have nailed it with their Multitool here Tbh the 51 is brushed version of this and bit cheaper but everyone is cheaper than Screwfix £190 they seen you coming I paid £160 and got a case .
When I first got it over a year ago you could not buy blades that cheap but yes now you can. The price over a year ago for the tool was the standard price things have moved on since then.
Hi Tom, good tip for prepping and painting MDF. MDF can be tricky to paint and get the finish and the other thing with MDF is choosing a clear varnish to keep the MDF look. As always a great video, Take care
Hi, I'm glad you liked the video. I have to be honest I have never varnished MDF. I have clear varnished plywood a lot, but I have never been asked to do it to MDF, but there's always the first time. As always thanks for watching
Hi I have yet to do a tutorial on how to paint MDF but will be doing one soon. Ask regarding these cabinets. They had three coats per side With a small woll roller but rubbed down Between Coats with 240 sound paper. Hope this helps thanks to watching
I take it that this is only of use after you have flattened the backs on conventional stones. Looks useful for primary grinding, but puzzled by the use of such coarse stones for the micro bevel (I assume that is what the 27.5 deg is for). I follow the Rob Cosman method- the micro bevel is put on with a 16000 grit (ceramic) stone, and takes a few seconds. When that is too large, a tertiary bevel can be used. Only after many sharpenings is the full bevel re-ground. Grinding to 1200 grit is very coarse, and, if not using finer stones, will require a lot of lapping. Personally I use 1000, 6000, 16000 grits (first two only for re-grinding the bevel and initial flattening of the back); no lapping (stropping) is required.
I have the same model you are exactly right in what you say about the supermax 16-32 drum sander. It massively improves productivity. It doesn't take 100% of concentration when operating as long as the ( Goldie locks) spot on the fead belt has been tensioned in . Sometimes, if it tracks towards a side I put more tension on the side it's going towards + slightly loose the opposite 😊 rinse repeat a little bit. When it dialled in its a game changer 🙌 👏 👌 😍 😊
Hi Tom, Great demonstration on your new sharpening jig, looks decent and easy to use and if it brings old chisels back to life it must be worth it. Great video, Take care
Nice one Tom, thanks for the walk/talk through of your new Makita… 👍🏻 I am not a Makita fanboy, having invested heavily in another well known 18v platform, but their Track Saw offering doesn’t cut it… 🤷🏼♂️ Long story short, I didn’t really want another battery platform to worry about, but have been thoroughly impressed with everything I’ve read, seen and heard about the Makita, your presentation included, so I’ve only gone and ordered the corded version… 👀 I have also ordered the track and paraphernalia separately to suit my needs, including a 1m + 1.5m track with bag, joiners plus fast action clamps… 👏🏻 Can’t wait to receive it all and get started, thanks again and now sub’d… 😉
I'm glad you liked the video and that it helped you making your choice on what yo buy.. I appreciate the kind comments and thank you very much for subscribing . Thanks for watching.
