I’ve made it this far, I’m convinced! I’ll be finishing up my floor pans this week along with the front suspension then I’ll be moving onto the rear. Not armchair quarterbacking one bit. Just extending my knowledge. Body work. Always start with short strand fiber glass or even tiger hair. It gives your repair a great foundation and strength. Then move onto your filler work to take care of any remaining low spots or imperfections. Your repair won’t crack out or fail shortly down the road attacking it that way. Not saying you’re doing anything wrong! Just trying to share my experience and knowledge where I can! Love the build series, you gained my attention at the 4 link because that’s my plan. Then I went a ways back to the bed bob build 😎
@@rjack151 awesome! Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to give glass a try one of these days. I'm sure I'm gonna crunch up this bed anyhow but what you're saying makes a ton of sense
@@joejimenez5399 I did stick my on IV once for CLS in the army. I leaked all over the place but got some laughs 😆. You gotta know way too much to work on people and I could never retain that. I can half-a$$ jeeps and stuff all day and nobody will likely meet Jesus. So I'll stick to jeeps and jokes. I learned "epidermis" from the two times I failed anatomy in collage tho 😜
One is supposed to be a light. Mine turns on but I wasn't impressed. I haven't seen it at night yet. My audio went bad in the wind so I decided just to skip over it lol
Best of luck with that tape. Phoenix has taught me to favor magnets over adhesives. I did a similar mod over a year ago on my pj buggy hauler. I used magnets to stick a solar powered battery tender to the lid of the tongue box. I also have a set of marine grade leds I store in the box on magnets as well so when loading/unloading at night you can stick them to the trailer anywhere you need.
I have a digital wideband and a 7 color boost gauge. You just proved that I do need the 12 constant power to illuminate the LED to view the numbers. My boost gauge works but i cant see the numbers. And also with the digital wideband gauge, I guess that also has to have the 12v constant along with the ignition power for the gauge to power up? I will try tomorrow,
Mmm Diet Dr Pepper. One of few semi guilt free pleasures I have left. I like your dual pry bar clip removal method, would work well on the trail. The fact that your doing a transfer case on a mesh bench means to me you like playing with fire, definitely my kind of RU-vidr!! Great video! Thank you for sharing.
@@kevinmcgee9209 that's a good point. I was thinking of putting a scale inline to see how much weight it was pulling. Even if it's less than 2,500 lbs of tension, it's a good idea to have safe practices, form good habits and set a good example 👍🏻
@@user-ck1gk6xu5n awesome! Especially after the insulation on the walls. Well worth the money. Last year was way to hot in there. I'm hoping the heater makes this winter tolerable too.
@BlackAndBlueGarage I prefer to work in the cold. I have always had to work on my stuff outside. But the cold never bothers me. Once you focus on the project everything else just fades away. I forget to eat on my all day projects. I could stand to skip a few meals though. 😂
Whats the trick for maintaining the stock gauges with the GM engine and ecm? Im wanting to do a similar swap without butchering the gauge cluster. I want it to appear stock inside.
@@robertpontius1689 that's the hard part I've heard. I'm using glow shift with no tachometer so I'm afraid I don't have the answer accepted Google 🙄 there are some emulators you can put between harness and guages. Also, people have had luck with adding a resistor to the harness but I never read into it too much. I don't need to know how much RPM or how fast I'm going. Might never reach 40mph in the one.
@@BlackAndBlueGarage thank you for the response. I've heard that you can piggyback the Mopar ecm off of the GM ecm, but I'm not the electronics kind of guy. I can do everything else, I just have no experience with that kind of stuff.
@@genesmith7151 it's where I got the idea at least 😁 originally I was just trying to avoid hot engine compartment air, but you make some excellent points.
@@Derekforeal good used engine, wiring harness and a reprogrammed ecm will get it running. But think about engine mounts, trans and t-case (or an adapter) exhaust and intake. You don't have to run the intake backwards, I just like to swim against the current. People have done the swap for around $3500 if you can find an "LS" under $1000, and budget shop everything else. Next LS swap I'm going with the Holly kit tho
@@Derekforeal novak-adapt .com has a great write up on their website for XJ swaps and they sell a lot of parts that support this mod. I'd spend the $$ if I wasn't making content, cause it's definitely worth the time savings.
@@chrismehl1607 This made me laugh 😜 it's been a while since I've been called a dingus. Makes me miss my hs auto shop teacher. Now I'm all nostalgic and stuff
@@BRIGGSMASTER63 I love this answer! I give the same advice outside of safety issues. Build the machine to make you happy and fuel it with doubt and ridicule 😌
@@BRIGGSMASTER63 Hey No harm No foul. Have you seen the videos of the (42 ?) That prowls around the streets of St.Louis area? Theres some with pictures Before the roll cage. The bottom of the seats keep disappearing though🤔
