Manufacturers of the Land Rover Series range of Chassis, made in New Zealand but shipped internationally. We will have Chassis ready for delivery in about mid-July 2023.
We also design and build a range of Air Bagged Ground Loading Trailers. These videos are posted for general interest and to help educate viewers. I am not the original designer of this type of trailer. Many individuals and companies have made stuff like this before me. However, I appear to be one of the few companies that produce a fairly consistent output that customers have commissioned.
As a result, we may know more about their problems, build time and cost, and how to modify them than most other people who have tried this. The original plans come from an Australian company called FabPlans. Go buy some plans of them and build your own trailer. Here is a link to their trailer plans page/ fabplans.com/cart
I'm a Welder from Idaho, USA and am looking to Bag a trailer, for healing my Airbagged golf cart. You and Your Crew, did a Fabulous job on the trailer and give me inspiration to build mine! Keep up the good work
A Great added security feature for expensive trailers / caravans 🤔 ............Drop trailer/ caravan on ground ( remove wheels for long storage ) be virtually impossible for theivs to drive it away 🤠🤞
Out of curiosity - which part controls / limits the main operating pressure ? I mean when system knows its fully pumped ? Is it valve or this control board ?
It's a manual control, you just pump it up until the trailer is at the ride height you want. The maximum operating pressure is regulated by the maximum output of the compressor which ia 160 PSI in this case, the valves, bags and air lines are all rated over double that pressure.
I just bought a tohaco trailer. Love the airsuspention it drives like a dream. Love how quick it pumps up even with a heavy load. I can see why you like them. Idk how long this one takes to pump it up again but i really love the 5sec raise. Its all EU spec. I would like to try that trailer of yours but its not legal in europe. The tohaco has all the airtanks beneath the bottom in the front. No need of draining it bc of the airdryer. Also the tahaco has a standard (eu) 13pin plug and gets charged via the car. It also has a electric level system that makes it always at the right hight automatically, it even ajusts while driving. Really love it. Also the compressor is running while driving so you dont even here it😅. Maybe you can ajust it too yours aswell😊 keep up the good work
The drawbar is only welded to a cross-section box steel instead of going under and further back under the front of the trailer just like caravans. This method is pathetic.A fail in the makings.
Well, Robert, we have built many of these trailers and spent many years in the engineering business, the following are my thoughts. I think it is pathetic that some would cast such aspersions upon another man's work without having the full knowledge to hand to make viable judgement :-) When designing and fabricating a trailer, the method of attaching the drawbar to the main body, particularly the front cross member, is crucial for both structural integrity and safety. The choice between welding the drawbar underneath the front cross member versus onto the cross member is often debated. However, with properly calculated material thickness and the correct welding techniques, welding the drawbar onto the front cross member can be just as effective, safe, and reliable as welding it underneath. Here are several key considerations that outline why the on-top welding approach is not necessarily inferior: 1. **Stress Distribution**: When a drawbar is welded onto the top of the front cross member, the design can distribute stress over a wider area, especially if the welds are done correctly and the material is of appropriate thickness and quality. This can mitigate the risk of stress concentration, which is a common concern with under-welding, where the load is more localized and can lead to fatigue and failure over time. 2. **Material Thickness and Quality**: With the right choice of material and thickness, the strength of the joint can be ensured. High-quality steel with the correct thickness, taking into account the expected load and usage conditions of the trailer, can create a bond that is just as strong and durable as any under-welded joint. Advanced materials and fabrication techniques allow engineers to create strong, resilient welds that meet or exceed the performance of traditional methods. 3. **Advanced Welding Techniques**: Modern welding techniques, such as Gas Metal Arc Welding (GMAW) or Gas Tungsten Arc Welding (GTAW), offer high precision and penetration, creating strong, reliable welds. When executed correctly by certified professionals, these welding techniques ensure that the joint's integrity is maintained, irrespective of whether the weld is on top or underneath the cross member. We have at our disposal both welders plus a 3Kw three-phase Laser welder. 4. **Engineering Design and Analysis**: Through advanced engineering analysis, including stress simulation and load distribution studies, the design can be optimized to ensure that the top-welded drawbar meets all necessary safety and performance standards. This includes considering factors like dynamic loads, vibration, and long-term fatigue. I hope you understand these things, Robert. 5. **Accessibility and Inspection**: Welding the drawbar onto the cross member can offer better accessibility for inspection and maintenance. It's easier to inspect the quality of the weld and address any issues that might arise over the lifetime of the trailer. I am sure you took this into consideration when calling our technique pathetic. 6. **Customization and Retrofitting**: For certain custom applications or retrofitting projects, welding the drawbar on top of the cross member might offer more flexibility in design and utilization of space, allowing for additional attachments or modifications that might not be possible with under-welding. 7. **Compliance with Standards**: Provided that the design and fabrication comply with relevant standards and codes (such as AWS, ASME, or ISO), and that the welding is performed by certified welders, a top-welded drawbar can be fully compliant with industry norms and safety requirements. In conclusion, the misconception that welding a trailer drawbar onto the front cross member is inferior to welding it underneath is not supported when modern engineering practices, materials, and welding techniques are employed. Each method has its own set of advantages, and the choice should be based on a comprehensive analysis of the specific application, load requirements, and operational conditions, ensuring that the final fabrication meets all safety and performance standards. Far be it for me to judge another man's ability, understanding of engineering principles or even his welding comprehension... perhaps you are right and I am just a pathetic fabricator... I am so pleased you were here to point out the error of our ways. Alan
Wow, the rules you stated are 🤯🤯 In the States, we can have up to 102" (2.59M) and what it's for and when you use it doesn't matter. Anything over 102" requires a permit and could require pilot and chase cars.
Looks like you need to add a Water separation system to the Air line and you can see that it's leaking from the Trailer Airbag and leaving the water puddles on the ground at the back axle of the trailer. And or a way to bleed the water out of the line.....
If you are referring to that small mark on the left rear of the trialer, I believe thats oil drips from another vehicle, you can see other oil marks on the tarmac. We do have a water drain on the bottom of the air tank in the box. No water can leak out of the airbags, if water could get our, so could air, right :-)
@@ultimatemanshed well that so called oil leak did get bigger the next time he was walking around the trailer and then it should have a Air line bleeding valves on the Axle Air line and it should be just like a Normal Brake mineral based oil bleeder valve to get rid of the water that does accumulate in the line and then you can see that the so called oil leak isn't there on the first time of him showing it and then it's there 🤔 and I'm not being critical on this setup but it will need a bleeder valve on the Air System just like the Hydraulic System does 🤔.... and like the Brakes on your Car....
Hey Alan would you be able to tell me what air spring that one is? Im curious what their pressure rating is and what you typically run your trailers at. Cheers
sure, we have a twin cylinder onboard that switches off at 160PSI, The airbags run at the pressure required to lift the load which is variable and goes up dramatically over a bump. We use bags from a Chinese supplier as well as Firestone. hope this helps. We have built trailers that can carry 4 tons and the nag show no sign of failure. Hope this helps
@ultimatemanshed I see your using Vigor air springs which look a bit bigger then the recommended firestones. The fitestones seem to have a max working pressure if 120psi in their data sheet which doesn't seem like much especially as you say under load on bumpes etc and it takes 90-100psi to lift. So was just curious what Vigor springs these ones are as they look a bit chunkier and nicer than the forestones. Cheers for the info
I really have no idea what you want to know, you can see everything working here, up and down. Try being a bit more polite and asking a proper engineering-based question and you might find out what you need, being a cheeky smart-ass will not help you.
What is the weight that you are building this trailer to handle. I carry equipment that weighs up to 8000 pounds and I want to build a trailer similar to this to carry it.
@@firehousecustomfab3286 We have not done this but I can't see why the average engineer could not do it. I would build more support on the chassis around the suspension pickup points
apologies for my poor german, I do not understand your response, are you saying I am nonsense, the airbags are nonsense, the screwdriver is nonsense or you are nonsense? Me thinks this is a better use of the word nonsense for any well-travelled german looking for a climax :-): In the forest of Quark, where cucumbers glow, A schnitzel man with green shoes, Sings songs loudly of cheese beer, And dances with squirrels in style. The bear paws clap in time The frogs croak in a frenzy, The world is crooked, the moon is flat, In the forest of Quark, where everything is dull!
Hi, thanks for your interest, it is very difficult for us to comment on USA regulations for these trials, there are so many rules that differ between the states and regional rules and the The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) that is part of the Department of Transportation (DOT) They also consider the tow vehicle and use etc. However, saying that there are many home-built trailers allowed as long as you are not selling them commercially and the rules appear to allow a wide range of options, again state rules apply. Be prepared for the cost of an inspection, titling and insurance. Some states might require this documentation to be notarized. Sorry, I can't help more than that.
Love my one use it for all sort of random tasks. I work on non running vehicles by myself every day so I use it even just to move things in and out of the workshop etc. most the the cars I work on are super low never have a problem. I have an electric winch on mine it is a must for me.
Many thoughtful features. Some thoughts on it. You don't cap all the tops of the vertical uprights. Here in the 'States' those will fill with rusty water. Your top tube rails lend strength to the frame, but their height may prevent opening of the doors on a low built sports car. The front A-frame is butt welded to the front cross member. You re-enforcd it, but the cross member is taking all the stress and load. It looks good for astethtics reasons, but the stronger and prefered method of construction is to extend the 'A-frame members underneath to the outer bed frame or at least to the next crossmember. I have to assume you did extensive testing of the wheel suspension units in the design phase. Overall, it looks like it can carry a full size pickup (7000 #) and it's a pretty package. Long term use may highlight some areas that need refinement.
Thanks for your comment. If you look carefully you can see that all the vertical uprights have two holes at the bottom for drainage, hard to see on the video I admit. It is a common fallacy to assume that a thru run is stronger. A high-quality weld, free from defects such as porosity, cracks, or inclusions, will have strength comparable to the base metal. We have never had a failure or cracks. Also to allow the tubes and wiring to run around the internals of the chassis this arrangement is less strong than a thru run with holes in it. Appreciate your point of view though. You are right about the long-term use highlighting issues, this is true of all engineering and this trailer is no exception. The main issue is the forward leverage on the rear wheel which is prone to impact stress as a result of hitting a potholes head on. Any impact on the tire is exacerbated and the trailer needs to be a lot stronger around the welded areas and mounting points. We have yet to find a solution to this problem. Once again thanks for your thoughtful comments.
Wow that is some awesome engineering was just wondering if you To lose air pressure and the trailer dropped while moving could you put in a removable bump stop so it wouldn’t bottom out on the road appreciate the videos you make in the information you share 🙏👍
Yes, this is an ongoing problem for airbag trailers of any sort. I do not have a viable solution yet but we are thinking about it every time we build. An easy fix is to include a tap on each of the bag inputs. they are cheap and small.
@@ultimatemanshedone hack the owners of early air suspension Range Rovers used to do (when compressor failure was common) was to fit a standard tyre valve in the lines somewhere. That allowed tou to temporarily inflate the system using an airline.
and is this a good thing or a bad thing? in my view, adding shock absorbers to a car transport trailer is a great idea for several reasons: 1. **Improved Stability**: Shock absorbers help keep the trailer stable, especially on uneven roads. This means less swaying and bouncing, which is safer for both the vehicle being towed and other road users. 2. **Better Handling**: They enhance the handling of the towing vehicle. With shock absorbers, the trailer follows the tow vehicle more smoothly, making it easier to maneuver, particularly at higher speeds or in windy conditions. 3. **Reduced Wear and Tear**: Shock absorbers reduce the stress on the trailer's structure and the tow vehicle. This can lead to less maintenance and repair costs over time. 4. **Protection of Cargo**: For a car transport trailer, this is crucial. Shock absorbers help protect the vehicles being transported from damage caused by vibrations and bumps on the road. 5. **Enhanced Comfort**: They make the towing experience more comfortable for the driver by reducing the amount of vibration and movement transferred to the towing vehicle. 6. **Safety in Emergency Situations**: In case of sudden stops or evasive maneuvers, shock absorbers help maintain better contact between the trailer and the road, providing more control.
Jeremy, we do not sell for export, the parts are very heavy and shipping costs have proven to make it uneconomic. A local laser or waterjet company should be able to cut them for you.@@jeremylakenes6859
Muito bem construido! Parabéns! Ótimo painel de controle também. A única coisa que me impressionou foi o "uso específico" do trailer. Não pode carregar uma moto??? Isso sim é liberdade!!! Eu tenho um trailer com as mesmas dimensões aqui no Brasil e carrego o que eu quero. Fiz minha mudança de uma cidade para outra com ele inclusive. Sem levar nenhuma multa por isso.
can't imagine living somewhere where people can tell me what to do with my own property 🙄🤦🏻♂️ that's not to say that all parts of the states are like where i live either but where i live we just do what we want
Peter, yes, we have that one you see on the jig, It has had a hard life, but we have drawings, so can work around the inconsistencies. If you near ChCh feel free to drop in. many head make smart work :-)
If your welding over the galvanized coating your weld has impurities and porosity. Galvanized is an outer coating for mild steel. It should be removed before welding. Plus welding over galvanized coatings releases toxic fumes that are very harmful.
thank you for your comments and yes, we understand how porosity and contamination on galvanised steel affects weld quality. We take great care with toxic fumes in our workshop and wear welding helmets with filters and purification systems, With regard to the weld quality. Whilst we are using a Mig here, we are experimenting with Laser welders and the heat and programming available allows us to burn through the galvanised coating deep into the weld pool and the welds do look much cleaner. However, we will have them cut open and properly inspected and will not rely on visual acceptance testing only. We will keep you appraised of our progress and just a note what you’re looking at here are our test pieces. We appreciate your comments and particularly take note of people that might be smarter or more experience than us, thank you.
