What were the symptoms of the faulty coupler? I have a specific problem that I was assuming was the Viscous coupler and have found one locally that I might purchase, but given the symptoms that people are speaking of in the comments, it might not be the coupler. When I accelerate in my 2012 3.5l se, my rear end will thump all the way to high speeds. It only happens at slow to regular acceleration, between the 0-2,500 rpm range. If I accelerate quickly there are no thumps. Happens more when warm. No binding or noises when turning. If I let off the gas at high way speeds and put the gas back on. It goes away. Would you be willing to provide some input since you've worked on these and may have an answer as to what I can look at for the cause of this problem?
In the case of this car the main complaint was during acceleration it would lunge as the power was trying to go to the rear wheels then slip and change back to the front wheels.
@SchnebsGarage OK. It's possible mine could be a joint or bearing for the crank shaft. If I had to guess, for some reason, it feels more on the right side. It's weird that it only happens at certain speeds and will thump more as I approach higher speed. Sometimes, it happens more than other times, too. Even when going perfectly straight.
@@dknowbeatz3665 Did you check your CV axle? It sounds almost like a CV going but not exactly, they usually make a clicking sound at low speeds but get quiet at higher speed. Just a thought.
You didn't post the airbag video? I have all those same lights on my 2013 lincoln MKX after getting hit on the right tire area. Ordering the abs speed sensor now. What did you replace for rhe airbag light??
How tight do you make the bolts for the clutch springs? I have them snug all the way around. When I assemble and pull the clutch rod it never engages the clutch to shift. And the pin it in.
7-11 ft lbs, basically snug like you have them is normal. If you overtighten them they have a tendency to break off the aluminum clutch basket on older machines.
I have a problem with mine where the clutch won’t engage at all, I just replaced the clutch plates and springs and now it won’t engage. Any ideas as how to fix this?
Battle buddy?? Is that like a torpedo buddy in the navy?? Guess I’m too old for this language cause I would have had issues with someone saying that. JUST SHUT UP AND DO YOUR JOB
@@jerryboy84 Take (Or tilt) the box off the truck. Its 6 or 8 bolts and the filler neck screws. Couple hefty lads can lift it off easy. Then just remove the lines and fuel sending unit from the top of the tank. Way easier than removing the fuel tank to get at it which almost always breaks the plastic fuel fittings and will cost you hundreds to replace.
Engine is a Chinese clone of a Honda 50cc, they made that engine for decades and is probably the most common engine in Asia. Look up torque specs for that ... should be very easy to find.
lots of wiggling, swearing and they'll come out eventually. You cannot get them out with the fuel rails still attached, at least not without breaking things.
I got a 2023 Can-am and my 4x4 not turning on or anything, so I did what you did on this video and still nothing. I'm thinking maybe the actuator dinked or seized, I did check the fuse and disconnected battery for bout half hour and the gauge still reads that I'm in four wheel drive even though switch is to the 2 wheel drive. What would be your guess as it's my very first four wheeler and love to have my 4x4 working again, thanks in advance.
Before buying parts do a thorough check of wires and plugs for breaks or corrosion. If all is good then the actuator is probably the culprit. Good Luck. ;)
Most bikes its just the shift lever that keeps it in place. Some machines need a shim or two as the shaft gets worn it can drift and come in contact with the back of the clutch basket and cause missed shifts if it moves inward to far. Hope that helps.
@@SchnebsGarage idk what it could be because the shaft dosnt stay out with the shifter and when it’s pushed in it misses the shift nub part but there is supposed to be a collar or something on it and I can’t find it , it’s a 84 cr80
@@killawatt_fpv Ok looked up your bike, there is a circlip that goes on the end of the shift shaft that is supposed to keep the shaft from moving back to the right. Part # 94510-14000 . You can buy em from most hardware stores its a 14mm circlip. Good Luck !!
Hey bro my clutch isn’t engaging. I’m confused, I thought the “plunger” was supposed to be”disengage” the clutch when you pull in the lever? Seems like this does the opposite of what I see in the videos. I just ordered new plates and springs even though they look like they’re in good condition. Any feedback on why this may be happening would be greatly appreciated. I’m researching all videos and every forum I see with no luck.
Its possible your clutch plates are stuck together, only takes one to be stuck and you wont be able to release the clutch. I have a video on this exact issue " How to fix that stuck clutch " I believe is the title. It might be the issue and best of all its a free fix. Good luck.
My gmc doing same thing and my fans sometimes not working an busted hose so im takeing it to shop this week its been good truck an steer an gear broke last year an something wrong with my ac its making loud sound when i try to turn it on
@@SchnebsGarage yea that's what's happening now im talk to my dad see if he can help me pay getting it fixed I do love my truck cause I use it to take my dirt bike to were I ride so I gotta have my truck an I have nissan altima its the best car I ever own the only thing is it has cvt transmission an last summer I changed transmission fluid cause it would get hot go lumb mode change fluid now it's good really good car im west Virginia I stay an drive dc every day it has 180 thousand miles been good car though
Yes I seen them, thank you for your reply. I can seem to find them on Amazon except in large quantities and expensive, I did finally find them from a military after market place here n states.
I'm on my 2 Chevy last one lasted 2 hundred thousand miles an transmission broke bought one off of junk yard an sold truck now I have gmc 190 thousand miles I can tell it's going out that's Chevy weak spot transmission the motor vortex is awesome
So I took ur advice on the nutserts/revitnuts idea. I drilled my first hole out bottom frame for transfer case skid plate mount. The box of the frame doubled up so extra thick, the nursery I have is a 3/8-16. It needs to b longer, I can’t find a longer one anywhere. Will the 3/8-16 swell enough n the hole to work? Thoughts? Thank you again!
They do sell a deeper rivnut / nutsert but they're hard to find sometimes. Look up "Plusnut" Amazon sells em, they're basically the same thing they just have deeper shank and 4 claws more or less that grip, should do the job.
leaves and stuff come in through the cowl vent, fan blows em to the lowest point. New cars have cabin air filters to stop that but the Jeep just eats that stuff up. Lot of guys put a screen on there when they take the heater box out but nothing really stops it short of periodic cleaning and not parking under trees.
I have a 2001 kx 125 and mine has the same issue but on my bike I don’t have space to put the clip on front of it I can’t find an answer any where can some one tell me how to fix that ?
Odd, sometimes folks assemble them wrong, there should be no washer/spacer between the gear and the case, if there is remove it and try putting the clip on. Other than that I'm at a loss.
I bought this a while ago and finally setting it up. My little dump trailer has two hoses from the cylinder - do I just cap one off? Because it's single action pump. I definitely don't need push pull but what to I do with the other line.
should be ok for a dump trailer since the weight of the dump bed will push it back down. Probably a good idea to put a screen type cover over that open end so bugs and moisture dont get in there when its not in use.
General question, installing the transfer case skid plate is a pain!! Installing the bushings is impossible the way that it is. Loose nuts n frame!! Seriously?!! Could I just tap the frame and call it good? Would that be strong enough??!! Thank you again for all ur Jeep vids!!
No, you don't need to remove the clutch for this job. The push rod that goes from the lever through the clutch will be under tension so you will have to open the right side cover and just take out the 5 bolts to relieve pressure to get that rod back in. Hope this helps.
One on the front of the intake and one on the back of the intake. Coolant cycles through the intake manifold via its own passage. If you dont have those then you have either an aftermarket or someone has blocked them off which was relatively common to see years ago.
Great Video. i Have a 2011 outlander 800r X MR. Bought it used and had no idea where to begin. I started with the fuses and they all looked great. was a little skeptical about this video because of ther year of the atv. glad i tried this because now it works. Thank you very much.
Those spring arms look good compared to the sub frame. I had to replace a spring arm as it was like Swiss cheese. Thankfully, my diff is still dry, no leaks or no oil, lol.
@@SchnebsGarage yeah, wasn't sure if you meant the smell of the burnt clutch or if it was gear oil. Thank you for the great video! I just changed my coupler with your help.
Great video. My 79 CJ5 is using oil and I suspect the valve seals. Now you make me think I should pull the head and clean all those up while I'm at it.
I got it!! Thank u great vid!! Now I’m dealing with no spark! Coil is hot on one side and dim test bulb on the other!! 82 cj5. 258 4.2l just bought the thing.
Ignition systems on these things is total garbage. I'd recommend scrapping it all and going with an aftermarket GM HEI style distributor (runs on 1 wire, hot ignition) .. if you're doin it on the cheap there's some on Amazon for around $150. Name brand stuff will run ya bit more, but either way its a vast improvement over the stock ignition system. Also grab a weber carburetor and ditch that thing they call a carb, you'll thank me later. ;)
Thank you again!! So did u eliminatethe idle module and all associated wiring? What brand and model of HEI r u recommending? Do u have a vid on that install?
@@ws56c62 Yes, module is in the trash. Only thing you need for the HEI setup is a hot ignition wire. The distributor comes with a suggested wire to use if memory serves. I did a full rewire on mine so I just picked my own wire, not hard to find one that'll work. I have a video that shows my carb setup but not the distributor install. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HHExHWY7kt0.htmlsi=PiHdyeS01-Hx1LDq . Distributor is pretty straight forward and I know I have a few how to vids on HEI distributor install someplace ;)