Prepping is far more vital and criticality important than the actual quality of the primer, paint, or rust solvent or sealer itself... You could use the best quality of any of the things listed above, but if you don't do proper prep, it will indeed fall apart... There also comes a point when rust damage that nothing will ever fix once it turns into flaking cardboard rust, its over...
Do not encapsulate your metal frame. Metal need to breath by expelling heat and moisture. Use lanolin base or woolwax oil base products. It work better and last longer. Por15 is a gimmick product basically black exterior paint with rust inhibitor additive.
Lol you’re a dumbfuck. It stands for “paint over rust” not “paint over rot”. Do some actual prep work and start with good base metal, and it works great.
Doesn’t matter what type of paint it is. You don’t apply rust preventative paint on rusty surfaces. Wasting your time, effort and money by doing that as seen here.
I've had great results with Por 20 silver high temp header coating. Header temp has gone up to 1650 degrees temps. It lasted 4 to 5 years. . Por 15 surface prep needs to be used with this product.
It’s a rip off…and yes i degreased using the marine clean and hot water a bunch of times…removed flakey areas then used their metal ready….applied the por 15……5 years later 🤷🏼♂️….. A better method is to degrease the surface then use a rust converter….the magic is using boiled linseed oil over that and let it dry until hard…..then it’s ready for paint….🙂👍🏻
Most people just don't know how and blame first while not accepting responsibility for anything so if you ain't a painter and a good one , don't use something you don't know about
Army uses POR 15 for a reason… it works. However it cannot just be slapped on top of rust scale the surface has to be degreased, washed then remove rust scale then wire brush the surface wash it use a neutralizer like baking soda wash it again, rinse it with a drying agent like denatured alcohol dry brush the surface THEN go ahead and slap the POR-15 on it keep up with cleaning and that S**t lasts forever…
Your fault you expect the paint to stick to your already junk frame 😂 first you should have cleaned it better, I bet you didn't even pressure wash that thing before you painted it, that's what you get when you try to cut corners
I am a former bodyman and very familiar with the prep work involved for quality results. I was a big fan of por15 for several years. Although this looks like a poor prep situation, i have had similar long-term results with por15. From my experience, there is a much better rust encapsulating solution. It's called mastercoat. The master series. The owner of mastercoat, "Pat," was one of the original engineer/chemists of por15. His mastercoat products are used on bridges, machinery, and train cars. Mastercoats primer/base coat seals the metal airtight from oxygen and moisture to stop rust from progressing. The topcoat called AG111(anti graffiti) is impervious to all automotive fluids, including brake fluid. It lasted 90 days submerged in acetone without damage. Which is what they use to remove graffiti from train cars. There is a standard test called the salt fog chamber test. They take metal coated with a product, then put a score through the product down to bare metal. Then, they put the painted metal in the salt fog test chamber and log the hours until the product fails. On the por15 website, it says por15 lasted 1000 hours in the salt fog test with severe rust undercutting the paint product. Mastercoat lasted 14,000 hours with no rust undercutting the product. After 14 years of mastercoat on a bridge, the bridge had less than 5% rust. Back in 2020, I started restoring my 97f250hd 4x4. It's a New York daily driver truck and has spent thousands of hours on the beach. In 2019, I started getting ready for the restoration by painting my rear suspension and axle parts with por15. In 2020, I found mastercoat. I started painting my front suspension, axle, and steering components with mastercoat. I finished painting my frame with mastercoat and installing all the previously painted parts in the fall of 2020. It's now almost 4 years later and the mastercoat painted stuff still looks like the day I painted it. The por15 parts look like garbage and need to be redone. Not only is mastercoat cheaper than por15 but, it's more forgiving to marginal surface prep. There is a video on RU-vid from a channel called "repair geek," called " If you think por15 is good paint." The thumbnail says friends don't let friends use por15. Watch it. He tests many current and popular rust encapsulating paint products with definitive results.
Hmmmm. Reading and following instructions would go a long way. That however is something called common sense, which is so rare now days, it is a super power. 😂
Your video is exactly the situation I had. If I had to do my 2004 sienna all over again... I would scrap away all the rust take it as far down as possible, then NOT paint it, and literally just do a whole can of WD40 every 3-6 months spray it on. I've got bare metal parts that have sat in my garage in the open air and haven't peeped any rust since hitting it with wd40.
You pained it onto loose rust. You didn't prep the surface. It fell off. Not a surprise. You were looking for a magic fix without having to do any work. We would all love that, but it doesn't exist.
Yeah, you go to a junkyard, find a frame with rust all over it. And you're expecting por15 to magically turn the flakey rust back into solid steel. Something about this reeks "another agenda".
