Hey , you got any idea what's causing my saw to cut off after a few seconds being turned on ? I guess it's either the trigger switch or motor ? Don't even get to put it into lumber it just cuts off and its not the battery
Toyota ma dwa gowniane rozwiazania w hamulcu, jarzmo z tym jednym gumowym pinem nie wiadomo po co i drugie z gumkami wciskanymi do środka jarzma nie na zewnatrz. Z czasem zbiera się tam korozja gumka puchnie, trzpien przestaje sie poruszać koroduje i juz nam zacisk nie pracuje prawidlowo. Praktycznie co rok wypadałoby to rozebrać oczyścić i przesnarowac bo od wymiany do wymiany hamulcow na bank skoroduje i stanie
2 dni temu odkręcałem jarzma od 12-letniej Yaris i pomogło odrdzewiacz i uderzenia młotkiem w łeb śruby kilku krotne i w ciągu 5 minut wszystko dało się odkręcić z pozdrowieniem.Drugi sposób to klucz udarowy
DZIEKUJĘ CI BARDZO .MEGA FILMIK!!!!!! KUPIŁEM SILNIK I SAM WYMIENIŁEM I NASMAROWAŁEM ŚWEŻYM SMAREK.RZECZYWIŚCIE ZAMOTAŁEM SIE Z BRZEŁACZNIKIEM TRYBÓW PRACY ,ALE ZAJRZAŁEM POD WAŁEK A TAM JEST PROWADNIK ,KTÓRY MA BYĆ W ŁOŻYSKU I JAK SIE PRZEŁĄCA TRYB TO PROWADNIK PRZESUWA NA WAŁKU MODÓŁ.TAK WIĘC CHWILA STRACHU ,ŻE ZJEBA... MŁOTOWIERTARKĘ NO I MI TE DWIE BLASZKI WYPADŁY CO WCISKASZ NA KOŃCU FILMU A JA TEGO NIE OBEJŻAŁEM I KOLEJNY PRZELĘK HAHAHAHAA JUŻ MYŚLĘ NO TO DO NAPRAWY I KOSZTA BĘDĄ ,ALE SIĘ WSZYSTKO UDAŁO.WIELKIE DZIĘKI ,POZDRAWIAM 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
More information is needed to find the correct replacement motor. The first motor I tried was the RS-750SH-7034, it burned up on first use. Assuming Paskuda is correct that the original motor was a RS-755, the numbers following 755 are also needed for voltage,rpm and torque. The manufactures of these motors will customize the motor to any specs. What we do know we need for a replacement motor: 18 vdc / Motor shaft diameter = 5mm / Shaft length 15mm / collar 4.5mm / Motor diameter 42mm (44mm with shield) / Motor length 60mm. It seem every manufactures specs are slightly different when looking at data sheets, but as long as the shaft diameter is 5mm and shaft length is at least 14mm (you con cut the shaft with a dremel) the motor diameter and length can be with in a couple of mm. I am assuming the original motor uses a capacitor not a veristor for arc suppression. What we are not sure of is RPM and Torque needed. The company making the motor probably does not matter. RS is the correct designation, but in the US the model #'s just start with 755. Here are a couple spec sheets for reference: www.minibldcmotor.com/product/micro-brush-dc-motor/rs-750sh-755sh-42mm-12v-micro-brush-dc-m.html www.kingomotors.com/rs-750-rs-755-series-micro-dc-motor-3487736.html www.nbleisonmotor.com/RS-755-Dc-Micro-Motor-pd6813204.html product.mabuchi-motor.com/search.html?method=4 And than there is the question of if we are replacing the motor should we use a brushless motor.
Thank you sir. I needed to check the exact fitting of that pin and lever at the bottom. I've repaired broken teeth on biggest gear by stick welding a blob and angle grinding the new teeth shape. See how it goes. Could do with a finer grinder blade and next time I'll take video of disassembly. I'm such a hack man.
First off, thank you so much for your video! I debated on which motor to buy. A RS-750SH-7034 goes 24,000 RPM at 18V and a RS-750SH-6050 goes 17,300 RPM at 18V. The specs for the drill says that the Max Speed is 1300RPM. The motor gear has 13 teeth and drives a gear with 43 teeth. On that shaft a 12 tooth gear drives a 65 tooth gear for a final 18.75 to 1 gear ratio. Meaning that (at 18V) 1300 RPM x 18.75 = 24,374 RPM of the motor. So I am buying a RS-750SH-7034. Edit: This motor has small fan blades and will get hot faster than the original motor.... Paskuda Twoja says, Original motor in this machine is LESHI RS-755.
I have same drill and motor burnt out yesterday, so which is best replacement motor please and best place to buy ebay or aliexpress?? Thanks for the video BTW
To gówno prowadnice, mam takie w Ford i ta dolna z gumką Dęba stoi. Młotkiem wbijałem to jeszcze w ten sam dzień zamówiłem nowe na 4 koła będę wymieniać
DON'T BUY RYOBI!!!! I have had this piece of crap for about 3 years and done about 10 small project (about 100 nails). It has never worked. DO NOT BUY!!!!!!! CONSTANT JAMMING!!!!
Do you think this might fix the problem if mine is always stuck at 230psi when turning on every time? Therefore it doesnt work because the psi is already maxed out and you cant go any higher than 150psi.
Dzieki Tobie naprawiłem dzisiaj moją fabrycznie nową wiertarkę. Zajęło mi chwiłe, ale po 40stym razie oglądania sceny ze składania i wytłumaczenia jak działa selektor trybów, zajarzyłem że ktoś w fabryce źle zamontował blaszke przez co nie ważne jaki tryb wybierałem, zawsze był ten sam (wiertarka z udarem). Wielkie dzięki.
Wow! Did he do that wrong. No need to disassemble the cylinder, circuit board, or anything below the top. Remove the tools' housing half. Do not remove the center screw for the cylinder cover, cylinder cover pulls-out as one assembly. Pull the old piston/driver assembly out and separate from the elevator assembly. If the elevator assembly stays in the cylinder, that's okay. Carefully rotate the electric motor CCW as looking from the fan end, using the fan blades until the elevator assembly is all the way down (you will feel the motor becoming hard to turn, don't force past that point). Insert the new piston/driver and push it all the way down (it will be hard as the air below it escapes past the seal). Assembly the cylinder cover making sure the black tabs and the green tabs are even at 9:00 and 3:00 positions. Replace tool housing half and tighten screws. With no nails in the magazine, cycle the tool 2-3 times. Get back to work!
Great video. I burnt out the motor on mine. I've got a new one ready to go in, but I always like to watch someone else do the job before I start taking my own stuff apart. What grease do you recommend for lubricating the gearbox before putting everything back together?
