This channel is all about astrophotography. No matter where you live, dark or bright, it’s always possible to photograph space. I'll show you everything you need you know about this amazing hobby, including the gear behind the images and the processing that goes with it. It's a whole experience, and a good one, so follow me as I show you the full experience of taking mind blowing images from my backyard!
@astrotan hello I have a question. Can I buy it as a beginner? I have a great interest in stargazing, will it be simple for me to get started with this scope?
Yes, absolutely! This telescope functions just like a normal one with the added capabilities of doing astrophotography. Just know you will need a tripod for it and it is on the more expensive side, but it is a quality telescope for the money!
Incredible work here my friend! I recently purchased the L-Extreme, after using the L-Enhance ( the 'enhance was brilliant! ) so as soon as UK weather permits I'm going for the Western vale Neb' myself! Well Done, you did yourself proud!
Small note: the sun won't go super nova. It's too small. It will grow into a red giant, possibly swallowing the earth as you mentioned, but after that it will just quietly eject it's outer envelope leaving the core as a white dwarf. 😊
I hook it up through my mele mini pc. It’s a computer with no screen, and I can control the computer wirelessly through my laptop or my phone. All my software and drivers are installed on the computer so everything is good to go!
Nope not the best budget scope any more i started with the 70mm currently it cost 320$ plus the flattener at 120$ that makes it 440$ plus tax. SVbony also has some real quality control issues when i got mine i have to adjust the focuser tube tension screws even with the flattener/reducer the image quality is very lacking and will test your editing skills to the max. It would be of for narrow band only but then that not budget anymore. by the way that is an Doublet air spaced achromatic not a apochromatic and neither of those words have anything to do with the amount of glass elements. you can have 3 elements and still be an achromatic you need to do some more research. My current recommended beginner scope is the Askar71F a triplet with built in flattener so no need to buy extra stuff and it's only 599$. To be considered an astrograph it needs to be fast less than F4.5 apochromatic and have a perfect flat field the SV503 has none. There is so much misinformation in this video it made me sick. This comment is constructive criticism not trying to be rude but you need to know what your talking about instead of spewing bad information out. Any by the way there are no single element refractors no such thing even toy telescopes have at least two. Your image is good for what your working with but you can see the blue light is not focused at all and is why you have blue/purple halos.
I’m going to have to disagree with you. You must have had some issues with your particular telescope, but clearly my results show no issues in my images that I have to complain about. And no, I never stated that this is an APOchromatic telescope. I stated that it is an achromatic ED design if you watched the end of the video. There also isn’t any particular f ratio you need for it to be an Astro graph either, not sure where you’re getting that information. I think you’re setting the bar very high for your standards. Many telescopes only have 1 glass element. If there were two for every single telescope, then every single one would be called a doublet. I don’t need people who comment on my videos promoting my telescope complaining about my halos when I clearly don’t have a problem with them. It’s a budget astrophotography telescope that’s made for taking pictures like this. No, It doesn’t have the quality of an Askar, but for people choosing their first telescope they can’t go wrong with its quality. Sorry you didn’t have the same experience, maybe you can make your own video about it!
The svbony telescope also has a flat field with the field flattener, I’ve been using this telescope for 2+ years I know a thing or two about how my images look!
It's an amazing scope. Will definitely keep using it in the future, but I plan to buy a zenithstar telescope later down the line for wide field astrophotography.
i just wanted to correct the moment you said that a single lens telescope is an achromat but it is called a singlet and it is the two lensed telescopes (THAT ARE MADE OF NORMAL GLASS) that are called achromats. But your telescope has an ED glass element that reduces the scatering of the light so it gives similar results as a much more expensive apochromatique telescope.
A single lens telescope is seen a lot as an achromatic telescope. My telescope is an achromatic telescope also but it also has 2 glass elements so it’s a doublet. The glass is FPL-51 which isn’t the best glass to bring it up to a apochromatic telescope when compared to Sky watcher’s evostar doublets but it still gets the job done with the ED glass
The 102mm has a focal length of 712mm and an aperture ratio of f/6. I haven't had a chance to get mine out under the stars yet. Thanks for the tip on the UV/IR cut filter!
Thanks man! And yeah, unless you have a DSLR or Mirrorless camera, you'll need a UV/IR cut filter. DSLRs and Mirrorless cameras already have them installed in the camera but astro cameras unfortunately do not and it'll make the image really soft, and the stars will be huge, not pleasant.
I used the sv503 80ED for a long time. I liked it a lot. However, it had its issues. I eventually upgraded to a Stellarvue 102mm triplet so of course I no longer have issues 😅
I think that the chromatic aberration part really doesn’t matter. It’s basically gone after going narrowband and everything is sharp after that, but it is only a doublet
I don’t really use any plugins, but occasionally I use 3 point polar alignment, but normally I just do it myself. The only main plugin I use is ASTAP for plate solving
Another thing worth noting for people considering this filter is that stars will appear green or white, so unless you’re ok with that, you’ll want to take some separate subs for rgb stars with something like a uv/ir cut filter. Also, polar aligning takes longer since for me at least, my exposures have to be 10 seconds. Doesn’t sound like a lot but it adds up quick when you’re constantly making small adjustments and resetting. I’ve been able to image stuff when the moon was 66% illuminated with no visible gradient in my subs. Haven’t tried any brighter than that but I would be curious to know others’ experiences shooting with this filter during bright moons.
I have been using the Svbony 220 filter. It is a 7nm dual band filter which lets Hydrogen alpha and Oxygen III through for use in emission nebulae. I like it and only paid $150 for it.
