Reviewing products I buy and like or love and offering helping tips on a variety of activities many including Motorcycles of all kinds including grey market Japanese collector motorcycles, dual sport bikes, dirt bikes, tour and sport bikes, electric motorcycles, electric dirt bikes. I love analyzing products and design and sharing my thoughts to help others save time and money and make better choices for the things they need or want. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and I only promote products I like myself and have experience with. Thank you
Thank you. I was able to get the part immediately from Autozone. My truck was stuck in drive when I got home and this did the trick nicely. Thank you! 2007 Tundra 2WD, 5.7L, 170k miles.
The XT2 is just pure garbage. Bought one and returned it when the dam thing would freeze, give a blank screen and best of all flipped and reversed all the text backwards. At one point I found a menu listing all the open source software in the device like google protobuf and I cant imagine why you would need protobuf library on such a simple device. And, spoiler, I actually work in embedded hardware and software touch panel designs for cab mounted displays in agriculture and construction vehicles. In the industry, this practice of throwing a bunch of open source libraries together and hoping to stich together some functionality is direct evidence that Garmin software engineers are just really bad. There is no hope for that thing, return it and get your money back if you can. For $500 or so bucks you shell out, it doesnt come close to commanding that kind of price.
@@revealingfacts4all im in agreement. I have gotten use to it and it's playing a decent role. But i can't return it now so i gotta do something with it. Gl
@@wetlifesports ebay or facebook marketplace it. I honestly am a bit appalled that a company, like Garmin, would have such shotty engineering. Consequently, I'll never buy any more of their gear just knowing they lack the internal know-how to write decent software much less glue random open source software together. I mean the literal text was backwards on my display on the maps, the menu items... tells me some Garming software guy is not using the font library correctly or something. unreal. I can't explain the electrical type failures with the all white frozen screen.... AND to make matters even worst, I purchased my XT2 in a retail store about 3 hours from my house and to avoid a trip, I attempted to return it using an RMA shipper and Garmin refused me requiring me to work with the Garmin store. Not some store selling Garmin gear but an actual Garmin outlet store in a strip mall. Yea, I'm done with #GarminSucks
Same way I did mine actually, except now I have the RF-1400 the visor is so hard to get on/off now I just use microfiber cloth and TV screen cleaner on mine while still attached.
I have a leak from the O ring on the transfer case actuator " the same on the video " the actuator works nothing wrong , just leaks, and I searched everywhere for the part number for that O ring no luck and Mechanics & Electricians in the country I'm in won't try even opening it so you can take that O ring and go to part shops to see a similar size.. so .. if anyone knows that part number? please help me with it ..
I can't thank you enough for your information man you saved me if not only a lot of time but a whole lot of I told you not to buy the GE washer & dryer and im sure you know what I mean !!!
Hey quick question .. I’m getting exhaust gas in coolant header tank . Thinking the head might have a crack in it as I’m losing 1/4 a bottle of coolant just reving the engine when the van is stationary. I’ve been told to check egr valve - diesel filter housing . Is any of what your explaining in your video diagnosis to the same problem I’m having ? I’ve had loads of these vans and never had to do a head gasket or change a head . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@wetlifesports yeah I think so to . I had so much back pressure in expansion header tank looks like it’ll be new gasket or the head is actually cracked 🤦♂️
@@wetlifesports I was wrong 😑… it was the egr cooler if you could believe that . Put new header tank on , new water pump , new thermostat . Instead of changing cooler I’ve bridged the 2 water pipes for cooler. Now have no gases in the header and no back pressure . Solved . Vans back out to work and I’m back to the sofa for beer and pizza 👏🏽😂
Okay I am so not good with taking things apart and we just moved in to a new apartment the dryer is not mine. If I cannot put it back together which I know already, so what now? Is Ge send someone out to help obviously not free.
Mine came off yesterday. If it broke while shifting you can get under truck and manually move the shift linkage arm on transmission forward(towards front bumper) to get it back into PARK. Zip tie the loop end of the cable to the shifter armature, with cable in normal mounting position if you need to keep truck operational while you get new part ordered. 2006 Tundra 4WD 270,000 miles.
I have a V-Strom with Bark Busters but I want to put bar sliders on there for petition will I have to remove the Bark Busters permanently does anyone have the answer would be much appreciated
@@KelsS1k sold bike long ago. Own a few more with lithium. Beta 300, tenere 700. Both no issues, saving weight. Folks have to remember how successful lithium is, cars, phones, etc. This is not new, untested technology. Buy quality, get warranty, have zero issues. The Beta gets restarted constantly!!
So what's the verdict with these tires? Longevity, performance, traction? I'm about the buy the same KKE set but with the Shinko 244's. How much power did it rob from the bike as compared to the original SX1 Dirt Bike Rear Tire (120/80-19) you tested? Thanks man!
@@wetlifesports If it's not too much trouble, can you tell me what the exact tire size for the front and rear? I'm going to place my order today from Charged Cycle Works with the SR244's and want to be sure to have them put the right size tires. You rear tire looks huge... i can't believe you haven't lost any power with it being so large.
I just got my front panel off on my GE dryer and that was most definitely where the problem was. I had a thick, heavy, compressed build-up of wet lint in that container right under the lint trap on the front panel and it was 100% clogged. My dryer suddenly wasn't drying my clothes in a full cycle so I pulled the dryer out away from the wall and ran my vaccuum wand up the back end of the dryer and cleaned the duct as well. Put it all back together. Still not drying right. I'm glad I ran across these videos about the lint build up in the front b/c I was very close to ordering some new parts for my dryer. The only issue I had was one of the two screws at the top of the door that fastens the top panel to the front panel was frozen solid and I stripped it. I had a complete set of drill bits and started with the smallest and worked up in size and basically drilled the screw out until it finally let go. If that happens to you, you can just drill a new hole that matches the screw size near where the stripped screw is and it should be fine. Thanks to all you guys that know about these things and share your knowledge with everyone else because we couldn't have done it without you.
I didn’t even include the model of GE dryer when I googled removing the lint guard but your video came up, and it’s the exact same dryer as mine! Yay, interweb! I’ve had this thing less than a year and tonight it started drying poorly. Crazy because I am the only person using it, and I average about 5 loads of laundry a month, and it’s already gunked up. I can see so much stuff down in there… wouldn’t it have been great if they made the opening wide enough for the shop vac nozzle to reach into it? Thanks so much for the video, I will tackle this project tomorrow (fingers crossed that it will have enough heat to dry one last load tonight).
Very helpful video! I was able to clean my lint area and more, but now my dryer is showing codes and flashing lights?? Anybody know anything about that and how to get it back to normal?
Hi all. It's July 2024. I'm trying to find the most economical way of replacing the wiper blades both now and in the future. I'm hoping someone on this thread can point me to REFILLS for the wet wiper system. The spray pattern is awesome. Currently seeing full wiper replacements for $50-$100. A little rubber or silicone refill makes way more sense. Holler if you have already solved this issue. fwiw, I own a 2020 Leisure Travel Van (Unity Twin Bed option) on the 2019 Sprinter 3500 chassis. thx
My factory wiper blades were good for almost 100000 miles and I kept them on until 115000. Today I went to the dealer and got another pair hopefully they will last like the factory ones, the price was $72 and with a discount from a business account I got them for $64.80, if they will go for another 100000 then the price is worth it.
@@Stpetersburginjurylawyersmp that might be good, it went through my head but its always messy, then over expands and i thing the cutting away of waste would be a job. I just did Thinsulate.
Excellent vid 👍I just got a used WR450F with this on it, I can connect with the wifi and can download the maps that are already on the bike but I can't send a new map to the bike I'm getting an error pop up on the phone app. It says about the batt might be under voltage (it's not), and that the map might not match the model, etc. Have you ever encountered this error and if so is there a fix? Thanks
@@0shiny1 😆 maps are a series of numbers on the graph that are fuel/air/timing and maybe the map you want to load has those settings visible so in your app you just adjust your settings up or down as needed to match the map profile. Then save it.
@@wetlifesports Thanks bud, but I'm presuming if you alter one of the existing maps (downloaded from the bike) you would have to then upload this altered map to the bike for it to go into the ECU ?
hello, watched all your sound insulations videos, pretty good work. how is the driving noise now after all the sound deafening for wheel, door and steps? do you have a video to record the sound level at driving? e.g. 75mph
@@yilu6463 Hi, thx. It has helped a ton. Its been alot of work. I downloaded a few sound apps and they read radically different readings so I figure they are not a good guide. One read in the 70's to 80s and the other in the 50s. This was before I did a few projects. I don't have great data but I can hear so much better, talking, stereo, phone, etc. The mirrors are my next study...they are complicated..
