Hey Guys, Im a Mechanic with 22 years experience. Was an M1 Abrams Tech (63E) in the ARMY. Started with Big Rigs, and eventually moved to light/Medium duty Diesels. I Love them, I really do. And also do lots of Auto Repair, on gasoline engines. This Channel is for repair help, product reviews, and Truck & Auto Repair conversations. Everything going on in the Automotive Industry
Join me as we discuss all aspects of Truck & Auto Repair, and explore the RU-vid world with it's relationship to Automotive Industry.
@micahkugler8388, No need to bleed after doing the return lines. Matter of fact most of the time, you don't need to bleed the fuel system after a repair, as it will bleed itself through the return system. Only when doing a Fuel Filter will you need to bleed, as there will be a lot of air after Filter Replacemen, because of the Volume of fuel in the filter, which will leave a lot if air under certain circumstances...
@ReneMartinez-u2t, Hi, this is called the "Fan Hub Pulley", which bolts onto the "Fan Hub Bracket". There is no Water Pump here that serves as a Fan Hub. Water Pump is to the Left of this (when looking at it), which has a much smaller pulley, which is pressed on, not bolted...
That's why you should seek out a technician and not a mechanic. Skilled labor isn't cheap and cheap labor isn't skilled. Even tho that job wasn't cheap
3 months ago I installed standard brand stand pipes , dummy plugs and reman injectors. 2 weeks ago I had to replace the stand pipes and dummy plugs with ford parts. Yesterday my truck started smoking alot and after testing I now have 2 bad injectors. DO NOT USE STANDARD BRAND CRAP
I’m learning this now with my 6.0 it’s taught me a lot and I’m really proud of it it always gives me hell but I love that damn truck no matter where I’ve taken it too I’ve never had a “mechanic” solve my problem in turn it’s made me get in her guts and learn head gaskets different sensors o rings injections high pressure pumps I’ve learned it’s better to break it down and test each part rather throw parts bc boy this thing is expensive but always worth that power she expels when I open the throttle much love to the 6.0 owners out there
Can this cause a hot no start I’ve done stand pipes and fixed it then it messes up so I put new hpop and it won’t start unless I use starting fluid before new hpop it would start cold tho
Does that have warranty? I know tool trucks warranty on battery tools is only for a few years. I have looked at Icon diagnostic tool scanner but for a tool truck scanner at $1,200 is not bad
After all that work and then IPR issue tells me last mechanic was not meticulous about cleanliness while working on the engine. The next thing is the blown o-ring on the stand pipe valve. I went through that issue numerous times because I thought I was using a dependable aftermarket brand part. Turns out that if you use the genuine Motorcraft part, it will last a long time. All the aftermarket stand pipes I used would fail just like that within 1500 to 2000 miles because the o-rings are not the same quality. My 6.0 is bullet proofed short of doing the head studs. Factory settings and over 250k on it. Still runs strong and will pull a load all day without any issues. Plan to run it as long as the government will let me.
Nah the 6.0 gets a bad rap because they're junk. But at least u are one of the good mechanics that figure them out. I had 2 of them. I shoulda learned on the first one. I went to a cummins in 2010 and have never had to have work done on a motor since.
I was nervous about buying my 6.0l about its “bad” reputation, but after diving into some research, 95% of the time it’s either mechanics that don’t know what they’re doing or trying to make money off you. Mine has 260k on it and runs perfect, I’ve heard people getting 600k out of them, just keep fresh fluids in them
I tell people all the time that 6.0s get a bad rep from shit mechanics. They throw parts at it with zero diagnostics then charged the customer thousands and the actual issue was never addressed. A 6.0 is a great platform and reliable once you address the factory issues. If you’ve never worked on a 6.0 and can’t even monitor the PIDs to see a sensor is bad then you should put your tools down and go home.
I tell people all the time that 6.0s get a bad rep from shit mechanics. They throw parts at it with zero diagnostics then charged the customer thousands and the actual issue was never addressed. A 6.0 is a great platform and reliable once you address the factory issues. If you’ve never worked on a 6.0 and can’t even monitor the PIDs to see a sensor is bad then you should put your tools down and go home.
Truth is the 6.0 is a pile of crap for the simple reason that when something goes wrong it’s always expensive to fix it. I work on these daily and I agree not everyone should be working on these for many reasons. The same goes for sprinter 3.0. Just too expensive to fix when they break. Other than that. I can get serious hp and torque out of a 6.0.
Mine is a 12/03 and has all the 04 and late parts except the odd intake doesnt have the back loop like early 03 but isnt clean like the 05 it has ears on it so bad you cant unscrew the ipr out because it hits the ears on the intake?? Seen these??
What the fudge...insane in the membrane. Mannnnn, the older cars and trucks were better. Carburator, and motors that had less problems. Theses computerized, motors, more problems, and pull the hair problems. Bring the older unmonitored vehicles back!!!!💔💔💔
Sir I truly thank you for taking time out of your day to help people like me. I have the same code that starts with a U and I’m going to do exactly what you showed us.