@aaneilaurentiu9634 Not to my knowledge. These injectors have built in temperature/pressure sensors, so no calibration codes need to be entered in the ecu. Injectors' official repair procedure only calls for reset of calibration after replacement. Rgds.
!! Never ! Never disconnect the positive (+)Kable first from Battery!! This shocks the whole electronic system and may damage expensive control unit(-s). same at reinstall: Limit the shock to the area of the battery, because the battery functions as a damper/buffer for the electronics: NOTE: ! Plus (+Red+) Cable always connected for longer ! ! =This means for reinstallation: first connect the red/+/plus, then minus. But only note that PLUS always connected for LONGER. That will help for de-and reinstall. Rest of video is good and helpful! Thank you, best regards! + + plus+connected+longer + +
Congratulations for this video tutorial! Made to perfection. Is it possible to know how many kilometers the car had when this work was done? Thank you.
Qualified ZF technician here for 40+ years and have built many of these transmissions. Service schedule here is mostly correct, but a couple points... 1. NEVER reset adaptions on any automatic transmission unless its had a rebuild. Resetting adaptions forces the computer to look for a certain tolerance of pressures and/or friction disc widths. If you reset adaptions on a transmission that has covered mileage, theres a high chance the tolerances will never adapt to the correct level as things like friction discs etc will be slightly worn. Theres also the fact that after resetting adaptions, the oil pressure inside the transmission will be higher than normal during its learn period. High oil pressure on a "used" transmission will usually result in catastrophic failure. Even ViDA says to NOT reset adaptions unless the transmission is rebuilt or brand new. 2. I noticed you drained the transmission and then added 1 litre of oil to essentially flush out any old fluid. Whilst i get what you were trying to achieve, this is still a very bad idea for any transmission but especially the TG81. The TG81 sits upright and even when full of oil, doesnt sit fully submerged in oil (hence why the valvebodies of these fail a lot due to high temps), but with just 1 litre or so of oil in the box, i can guarantee that valve body would have been dry and hated being ran whilst so low on oil. Just a simple drain and refill is all you need to do on these transmissions
Hi, the adaption reset on this tranmission has been a topic for discussion in many places. I believe the confusion was caused more or less due to a precedure on the previous gearbox generation, which suggested resetting the fluid counter after fluid is replaced. On the following gearbox, this procedure is no longer present, and there has been an assumption (not necessarily 100% correct) that the adaptation reset will do similar job. I'm not a volvo professional myself, but have heard the following statement from volvo technician, thus applied this practice on my own car. What doesn't help either is the description of the gearbox reset procedure in VIDA, which states that it should be performed if one or more of the components in the tranmission have been replaced. Doesn't explicitly say rebuild/replaced, and that abusing those conditions will cause issues with the gearbox. I'm taking your comment and will make a note in the video description to advise people to perform at their own risk! On your second point, it's been a while since I posted the video, but I don't recall having shown a fill of the gearbox with only 1 litre. It's fairly obvious that leaving gearbox dry will be an extreme condition for it and potentially causing more wear, so I wouldn't see a reason to do it. What I've done is 2-3 filling/drainings of the gearbox. Each of which is done with 4l of oil, which is about the quanity you can drain from the drain plug , discounting the other 4 liters which remain in the torque converter and the system in general. After final fill, excess oil is removed by smallest drain plug. Regards.
@@NathanFrench Thanks! I did a quick and search and found the same info. This also matches with ChatGPT's answer 😃. I'll do just an oil replacement then, my car has only 80K km driven, not much I guess for an gearbox oil.
Hi, I don't remember exactly. If you have a diagnostic tool, disconnect the plug of one injector, scan the car and it should throw a code on the injector it misses. Regards.
I have a V70 with the D4 VEA and it feels like it can’t handle the torque though it has rubbish front tyres - also the economy isn’t great - I’m wondering if the remap makes this worse?
I agree traction may not be the best from start, especially if on FWD only, but it pulls a lot better when cruising. Fuel economy tends to improve after remap, however there's also external factors such as the carbon buildup (clogs manifold and emap pipe, causes sticky egr valves/swirl flaps, etc), boost leaks or maybe the remap quality itself. Regards.
@@GSAuto681 thanks, useful to know - I've just finished cleaning the last part of the puzzle which was the EMAP pipe which was clogged but a pain to get off (blowtorch cleared that carbon out!) - that has improved the MPG and driveability loads - this was after doing the full EGR cooler, intake manifold and valves (purchased at 180k) plus de-ash of the DPF - in theory it's as "clean" as can be!
Thanks, I need to do all these on a V70 D4 VEA - oil filter looks like a bigger faff (and even messier!) than on my old 2002 V40, likewise the fuel filter is also in a weird location making it harder to access (the V40 also had a handpump to re-prime the pipes) Edit: you had me worried for a moment as the new filter I have is a cartridge type one, much like the oil filter - seems there are some variances in the D4s - it is still located somewhere at the back between the axle however - according to VIDA, just to make it more challenging 😬
Had the misfortune of needing to do this last year on a V70 in parallel with a DPF de-ash 😮 I found the most effective cleaner for the cooler was Bilt Hamber’s degreaser used neat with boiling water applied repeatedly and then using the strands from armoured cable to poke all the way into the channels one at a time - that was not fun 😵💫 Same product on the manifold and intake - BUT on the last valve the crud left a gap and leaked into the cylinder which was a bit of a brown trouser moment but thoroughly blowing it out with compressed air by removing the glow plug seemed to work 😬 The ECU then detected low compression (this was a software patch they added as I understand to stop the inlet melting 😮) but fortunately went away once the valves settled back to closing fully 😮💨
hi, is there a database or anyone keeping track of what modification is actually possible with or without hardware addition? it would be great to have such information. Thanks
@aldobarr9820 Hi, just the valve could be cleaned by removing the charge pipe on the throttle body side. To fully clean it with the cooler, it will have to be dismounted. Rgds.
