I don’t have the car any more but from what I remember an OEM led headlight swap is much more involved than these bulbs. Factory led housings do look much better than led replacements bulbs for sure.
In this video it was just a rear muffler delete. In later videos I added a 3” downpipe, then later videos I added a flow master muffler back on the car. I recently traded the car in tho.
the tip of the window was sticking up, i grabbed it and lifted it with tape on the window and pliers. otherwise you have to remove the door panel and lift it through the speaker hole.
I got new sway links. Sure as all they were correct. Part number matched. Well.. they were to long. Just by a little. The other parts place had them too thin. Bent. Went to the dealership, wow what a difference. Tip of the iceberg my friend. Good luck
Dang it sounds like you had a hell of a time! I never managed to figure it out but I’m sure it’s basically ‘my fault’ for putting aftermarket suspension on it. I traded the car in still popping and clunking
The brake bones connected to the shaft bones. Shaft bones connected to the wheel hub/strut assembly/sway link bones, link bones connected to the sway bone. And it’s all healed together with rubber. Like the engine is on its own little island connected by little ligaments to the rest of the body. I have nearly rebuilt my 13 cc by just hunting one issue. And if you went aftermarket on parts. I will bet a fancy steak dinner some look the same. You got told they correct, but they aren’t. I found more accurate parts at the LKQ pick and pull. Pealing a German engineered onion. You’ll lose your mind. I already know what it is. What it isn’t lol
Just stumbled upon this. 2023 arteon se R line here in Texas. Had a meet and greet with a curb. Anywho. Left suspension new. “shifted front subframe to help get back into alignment” tech noted. But the Monroe struts! Came on the car but Monroe advised they don’t even go with that car and in the states. Springs are weak.Replacment went bad in 2 months. Driver side pads get clogged with dust since the OE pads don’t vent well. It’s that groove, too narrow. They stick, get too hot, it’ll pop. And if they are direct OEM style, it’ll happen again. Possible known issues with pulsating brakes from front assist. The heat fools with the wheel bearing. Pops and drones. YOU MESS WITH THE RUN GEAR YOU GET NOISE AND MORE HEAT. Bad bad bad. Struts can’t hold up because of the springs being too weak.They clunk and pop. Even one bolt on the sub not right, the whole thing moves and pops. It’s the engine cradle/subframe thing. You mess with it, you get a bunch of issues. Sway links are thick on VWs. Insane. Same with CC. Puts much force on the sway bar with no give. Any issue you’ll hear it. Also the sway links have different lengths. Double check replacements. Rack is super sensitive. 1% damage and it’s toast. EXACTLY AS MY 13 CC SPORT. Two in the same. Front parts gotta be German. Almost all aftermarket stuff failed. But! the struts on the cc are rock solid SACHS. Bigger and heavier than the arteon. Tried 2 quality aftermarket swaps on the cc years later. nope.. failed. So! Front strut assembly on some arteons are too week. I found a part number mix up in my research. Direct cause imo. Recap! It’s not one but many reasons. Domino effect. And you can’t throw just any parts at it. They gotta be exact. Or you will go crazy chasing your tail. Germans say how tight bolts gotta be you better be exact. For real. German stuff don’t break but it’ll let you know THINGS are not right.
Honestly I see this in mine and mines almost still new 😂, I saw videos of people changing those to solid ones where it doesn’t allow oil to come out at all. Apprently we should change that from the stock oil cap, as it dosnt seal, and should be sealing so no pressure escapes ? Idk how true it is but definitely going to look into it further
Yeah it seems like it’s just a thing VWs do. I have seem people say they swap the cap or add an extra o-ring to the cap and it works for an awhile but always end up leaking again.
@@DADMOBILE_Garage I just installed this same hood deflector. Those clips go over the 6 stick on pieces that hold the deflector to the hood. See the video from Parttera garage on the 2018 golf. This is a great video. I hope you still have those clips as I believe they act as a backup should the adhesive give way. That is why you had 6 small clear adhesive patches to protect the hood from the clips.
I have a CEL for P2004, I checked and the nipple cover isn’t there but I don’t remember removing it. Any chance it could’ve gotten sucked into that tube?😅🤔
@@DADMOBILE_Garage Yeah I felt for a bulge and came up empty. I know it’s been a while so I get if you don’t remember the specifics, but was it capped the same way the EGR part was down by the turbo? Just a little external cap? Or was it an internal plug? All of the forums/groups/articles I’ve read point to the same tube being the issue.
The set I bought are the lowest lumen they had. They are brighter than stock but they aren’t crazy. Caravan light assembly is also easily adjustable to make sure you aren’t pointing too high.
I know this video is 2 years old but I end up always coming back to it because I don't know if I should do it or not but do you think if I put this downpipe on and the high flow cat and kept the rest of the exhaust stock it would still give me that insane low rpm turbo noise that you were getting?
Unfortunately no. Stock muffler will remove most of that noise. I put an offset/straight through flowmaster muffler back on the car before I traded it, and it took away most of the turbo whistle.
Just put mine in on a 2014 Jetta 1.8. Had a check engine light. Saw ur video and went back to the car and sure enough that plastic cap was inside the hose Appreciate your video saved me a huge headache
